Would it hurt anything if you set your timing tables straight across like a crank trigger setup where you have full timing all the time? I know with large cams in serious race engines that they idle and respond better set up that way.
Would it hurt anything if you set your timing tables straight across like a crank trigger setup where you have full timing all the time? I know with large cams in serious race engines that they idle and respond better set up that way.
1998 Pontiac Firebird
NA 3.8L V-6
[email protected], 1.65 60'
7.91@85 1/8th
Abbott Racing Heads and Engines
I've found that most cars Idle fine at teh same amount as WOT
its fairly safe if you want to push 28* across the board to get it going...but beware that down low in the rpm range with load its gonna want drastically less...some cams even wants a few degrees negative on timing at higher load low RPM's
but anything above 2400 it really shouldnt matter too much....
again..just watch for knock in lower rpm high load areas...
-Scott -
Would it "hurt"? Yes it would. You would more than likely see a massive amount of KR and put the car in "limp" mode. Timing on a V6 wether it is FI or natural is a major point in any tune. Because the "Air Pump" (a.k.a. engine) is so much different than a V8 it is imperative that the timing tables be true and not spoofed.
Pushing a straight accross triming timing table will result in one thing - problems. Even though the V6 has the advanyage of Excellent KR sensors, they will only compensate for so much. I have my car cammed, and had a real hard time finding the right timing curve based on my other mods. Timing, fueling, and pe tables have a large effect on these cars.
Here are some examples:
Stock for a 2001 Regal GS:
And mine, cammed , IC'd, 3" exhaust, lots-O-Mods:
I totally didnt notice this was v6 land...DOH...
timing is much more picky on v6...28 would probably be a lot of timing up top for a v6....
-Scott -
Originally Posted by soundengineer
Yeah. For a NA tune with major mods, 28* is no big deal. 28* on a FI on top would be suicide!
ANY more than 18 - 19* with a FI V6 would be big problems. A friend of mine has a 11.6 second GTP with a 2.6" pulley, all the mods in all the right places, a 75 shot (wet) of nitrous, and yet he sees 15* of timing on top. There are so many things to consider in a tune for these V6 cars that it is almost an art.
The V6 cars are a lot different in tuning.
What I don't understand is how one goes about setting up a timing table in a half-ass timely manner without having to go from cell to cell trying to find the max you can run? Also, saying I did get a timing table set up how I like it, when I get to the track, would I add/minus 1* of timing to the whole table until it either gets KR or it stops running quicker ET's, or would I have to keep it all within a certain range?
Last edited by WickEdSix98; 07-25-2006 at 09:43 PM.
1998 Pontiac Firebird
NA 3.8L V-6
[email protected], 1.65 60'
7.91@85 1/8th
Abbott Racing Heads and Engines
The timing table fields used under WOT are basically the last 2 columns. In the scanner, use the histogram for timing and KR and you will see exactly which fields you are hitting at WOT. Those are the only ones I messed with, I left the rest stock since they only get hit at partial throttle.
92 S10 3800 A4
i just add 1* of timing (in every cell), do a test run, and take out timing in whatever cell gets KR.... easy
Exactly. What I have done is add 2* to all cells. Run a 1/4 mile run, and remove timing from the cells that experienced KR, and then smoothed the table.
If you are FI be carefull, as temps will cause a lot of variations in timing. Also be sure your (if sc) has a good tight belt and is not slipping. Running on a slipping belt I got 22* up top, then when I swapped it I saw 11* of KR on the first run.
Regal GS Site Owner / HPT Moderator / FTV6 Mod
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