2004 Chevy Avalanche z71 5.3 1500

[John5]

Hi guys,

I am new to the forum and to HPTuners and I was wondering if anyone could look over a tune file to see if there is anything that can be or needs to be adjusted to get anymore performance gains. The truck only has a cold air intake, a gibson dual extreme catback exhaust system and a set of oem e-fans with Nelsons wire harness. The truck had a tune done about 10 years ago but now I have HPTuners and would like to know if everything looks good. Looking forward to learning more about these engines.

Thanks

[cobaltssoverbooster]

get a 30 minute log of various ranges of load and include:
wideband (if you dont have one then you need short term and long term fuel trims)
rpm
coolant temp
injector pulse
advance
knock retard
maf hz
cylinder airmass g/cyl
commanded afr
idle airflow
short term idle trims
its likely an auto so gear indicator

and post the tune file you have.

if your not familiar with the forum you can click "go advanced" at the bottom of the reply box and then use the upper thumbnails to load and attach files to this thread.

[John5]

get a 30 minute log of various ranges of load and include:
wideband (if you dont have one then you need short term and long term fuel trims)
rpm
coolant temp
injector pulse
advance
knock retard
maf hz
cylinder airmass g/cyl
commanded afr
idle airflow
short term idle trims
its likely an auto so gear indicator

and post the tune file you have.

if your not familiar with the forum you can click "go advanced" at the bottom of the reply box and then use the upper thumbnails to load and attach files to this thread.

Hi,

thanks for looking into this and replying. Where I'm from theres no high ways so the log will be a bit of stop and go driving but I can go further out and cruise for a while but speed limits are 60mph max. I can do some WOT runs if needed for short periods so just let me know how you would need this log in this particular situation. And does it have to be for 30mins? I guess the more cells are filled the better but may have to do circles because where I am able to cruise and do some wot isn't that far of a distance.

Thanks

[cobaltssoverbooster]

30 minutes allows ample data to check for repeating trends. It needs to be a log of whatever kind of driving you can get

[John5]

Ok cool, I should have a log ready in a day or so and will post it with the tune file.

Thanks again

[John5]

Hey guys,

I ended up getting a data log of almost an hour of driving so should be good data. I also have the tune file which I will include but I can't seem to get these uploaded. Once I hit upload files there's just a number and says attach, is that how it will look until I hit reply?

Thanks

[John5]

I see the attachments made it.

Thanks

[5FDP]

Do you by chance happen to have a knock sensor code active or as a pending code?

I ask because anytime you go WOT it will peg the knock retard out at 8 degrees of knock. If there are any knock sensor codes that can happen.

[John5]

Hi,

I notice where it retards 8 degress quite a bit yes. And I get a PO332 which says it's sensor 2 bank 2 circuit low. I know these have a tendancy to get moisture around the sensor or the harness gets damaged somehow so thought that was the reason as it's not throwing anything for a actual knock. Also the areas where it pulls that 8 degrees I don't get any check engine light and for some reason the check engine light will come on if I just cruise up to 55-60 and back down it comes on with PO332.

Thanks for taking the time to look at this.

[5FDP]

I would look into replacing the sensor or the harness as you don't really want it to always retard the timing on you.

Often even after replacing the sensor the codes can pop up. Disabling the codes is the only way to stop the computer from pulling timing then even though the sensors are fully functional.

[John5]

Yes agreed and I actually have the 2 new genuine sensors and harness on order so I will be changing them soon. This only occured in the last 3-4 months and it doesn't come on all the time. Throughout this entire log with a few WOT's and up 100mph the light didn't come on but I still see where it's retarding 8 degrees.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

ohm test the sensors before you install them. the resistance for the early round one wire ones is between 93 and 104K ohm

[John5]

Ok thanks for the info and will check the resistance.

[John5]

I made some small changes to see if I could stop the 8 degrees of knock retard and those were, enabling PE to come in at a lower rpm and reducing the torque percent value for PE and it's not pulling the 8 degrees anymore as it did pretty much all the time I got on the throttle. In some areas I see where it is pulling 3-5 but no longer 8 so maybe it really has too much timing and needs a bit more fuel.

I'm still going to do the knock sensors and harness when they arrive but just thought I would let you guys know. I didn't take it for a long drive to log some more good data but I will over the weekend and see what it gathers.

Cheers

[cobaltssoverbooster]

timing doesnt seem to be an issue when reviewing your original tune file. the factory ignition maps are pretty good and if i remember correctly its not far off from what you have. Its more likely that the sensors are causing false read issues.

[John5]

Ok that?s good if the timing doesn?t seem off much because I don?t know what the truck had stock and hope it wasn?t causing any harm as its been tuned for over 10 years. Only now that I have tuning software and can see that it actually has knock retard. A friend of mine has a stock 04 5.3 Avalanche I will pull the file and see how much different it is.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

i compared it to my stock 6.0 file. it was only increased by a degree or so in a few zones.

[John5]

Hello again guys,

So I am finally getting around to doing some more work on the truck and would like to know the steps I should take for fine tuning everything and is a wide band needed. I have an AEM 30-0300 wide band on the list for sure so would the steps be MAF, SD, spark and then? If there's another order or better approach your advise would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[5FDP]

Yes, a wideband is required if you want to calibrate the fueling for open loop. Meaning like half to full throttle where the computer does not use the o2 sensors in closed loop to correct it for you. If the engine is mainly stock, it'll be somewhat close already but you can get it much closer to the commanded value using the wideband.

MAF, VE then spark or VE, MAF then spark. It really doesn't matter which half you do first. Just that both have to be done independent of each other. Like the MAF has to be failed to do speed density and the calibration set to a "maf" only type mode for the MAF curve.

[John5]

Thanks 5FDP, I will order the wideband sooner than later then. And when you say VE, SD mode is used to tune that area correct?