It's better, but not there yet...

[LRI]

Engine: 421cid, Whipple 2.9L, .650"L x 280*, 118 LSA cam. Brodix Heads, long rods, 9.6:1CR. AC driven intercooler setup for blower. Trans is now a full manual, reverse pattern, 4L80. Only thing hooked up is the trans brake and speed sensor.

Car: 2004 GTO

• Initial start: I have to crank it, stop, then crank again. It'll always fire on the 2nd attempt. It comes to life very lazily. Slllloooowwwwllly builds RPM from about 400 and then climbs the ladder to 800. Once it fires it's rough. Surges up/down until the ECT gets north of 130F. Then it'll start to settle down. If you turn the AC on during that time for the chiller, it'll really struggle.

• Once warm: It'll usually idle ok. Maybe a little surge here/there. Put it in gear and drive off and it'll often backfire out the exhaust. Then it'll kinda surge forward and sorta "clear its throat". -like its rich and loaded up or something.

• Down the road its not so bad. Fairly smooth.

• Full power. Good, but I know there's a lot more left.

• Coming off power. It comes back to idle most of the time. It will however occasionally die. Enough to where I find myself using my L foot to brake in case I need to peddle it back to life. Once I blip it, it typically settles down again.

• Off idle power, as in, leaving a light while driving normal. A hesitation, then it goes. Not always though.

• Fuel economy seems to suck royal ass. Not that this engine was built for that of course, but I would think it'd be better than what it is.

• Last: This log didn't have the WB hooked up. So, likely useless I'm betting. I have a Ballanger 500 v2. Just no time to set it up before going to work. One question regarding that. I can't seem to figure out how to get it to output Lambda. I see where the settings tab is, but it won't let me. Any ideas on that?

Thanks for looking


Current tune and latest log:

• 6-13-2018_new trans.hpl
• 33.hpt

[5FDP]

This may help or hurt you right away but if you did a lot of tuning with the computer still thinking it's a 5.7L engine you may want to let it know it's way larger. Cylinder volume should match what size engine it is.

The short terms are pretty active still but it's hard to say how close to the commanded AFR it's running with no wideband yet.

Also remove the 1 bar map channel and replace it with the 3 bar channel so you can see how much boost you are running.

[KFXGUY]

Long rifle? Anyways, I’ll upload my tune shortly for you. Mines an 04 also and I fought and fought with it and now it’s like a stock vehicle for the most part. Always fires right up. No funny business. No surging. No dying. Perfect pretty much. What you need to do is copy everything I have except:

Timing tables
Ve
Maf (if your using it)
Idle airflow

On second thought you may want to use the upper portion on my timing tables from 1600rpm and up. Use 0-1200 complete. Blend in. If you don’t want to do that then use the idle timing tables I have (park and neutral) and then adjust your high and low octane tables right off idle to where your not getting huge timing spikes.

Zero out your throttle cracker table. Put enter mph at 8 and exit at 7. This got rid of my surge. Omg it was kicking my ass. I tried that as an experiment and it oddly fixed it.

You’ll need to retune your ve and maf tables also. It’s very important to have them correct. If they are it won’t crank correctly and it will surge. You know how to disable the ve table while tuning maf? Just checking because I didn’t know for quite a while. Post the tune shortly.

[KFXGUY]

my tune file

BEST GTO FILE YET.hpt

[LRI]

Long rifle? Anyways, I?ll upload my tune shortly for you. Mines an 04 also and I fought and fought with it and now it?s like a stock vehicle for the most part. Always fires right up. No funny business. No surging. No dying. Perfect pretty much. What you need to do is copy everything I have except:

Timing tables
Ve
Maf (if your using it)
Idle airflow

On second thought you may want to use the upper portion on my timing tables from 1600rpm and up. Use 0-1200 complete. Blend in. If you don?t want to do that then use the idle timing tables I have (park and neutral) and then adjust your high and low octane tables right off idle to where your not getting huge timing spikes.

Zero out your throttle cracker table. Put enter mph at 8 and exit at 7. This got rid of my surge. Omg it was kicking my ass. I tried that as an experiment and it oddly fixed it.

You?ll need to retune your ve and maf tables also. It?s very important to have them correct. If they are it won?t crank correctly and it will surge. You know how to disable the ve table while tuning maf? Just checking because I didn?t know for quite a while. Post the tune shortly.

I don't have a MAF. It's an SD tune.

Thanks for the advise. I'll look into it and your tune file. Much appreciated.



LongRifle: Range Control on MCB, Camp Pendleton. A place I was once very familiar with. It's also the name of my business; LongRifles, inc. Now whittled down to "LRI" by most of our clients.

[KFXGUY]

I don't have a MAF. It's an SD tune.

Thanks for the advise. I'll look into it and your tune file. Much appreciated.



LongRifle: Range Control on MCB, Camp Pendleton. A place I was once very familiar with. It's also the name of my business; LongRifles, inc. Now whittled down to "LRI" by most of our clients.

I thought you were longrifle from ls1gto.com. Anyways, my tune wouldn’t change very much if it were just sd, as a matter of fact it was sd for a while and I just turned the maf back on. If I were you I’d try it. My idle parameters and adaptive idle took quite a while of experimenting to get it to where it is. The only thing I really need to do at this point is make the decay come in quicker in the throttle follower because when I rev it the rpms hang at 1000 for a second. But it’s not bothering me because my 2017 bone stock Silverado does the same thing. It doesn’t die at all and that’s more important than a slight rev hang to me.

On a side note, I’m a sucker for carbon fiber and that carbon stock you sell is sick. I was drilling over it and I don’t even have a bolt action 22.....just a mildly modded 10/22.

[lukearmstrong1990]

Engine: 421cid, Whipple 2.9L, .650"L x 280*, 118 LSA cam. Brodix Heads, long rods, 9.6:1CR. AC driven intercooler setup for blower. Trans is now a full manual, reverse pattern, 4L80. Only thing hooked up is the trans brake and speed sensor.

Car: 2004 GTO

• Initial start: I have to crank it, stop, then crank again. It'll always fire on the 2nd attempt. It comes to life very lazily. Slllloooowwwwllly builds RPM from about 400 and then climbs the ladder to 800. Once it fires it's rough. Surges up/down until the ECT gets north of 130F. Then it'll start to settle down. If you turn the AC on during that time for the chiller, it'll really struggle. set startup underspeed time from 4.5-0sec. reduce start up flare control values by 50-60%. car physically needs more air. IAC is pegged. crack the blade and re-set 0%TPS or drill a hole in the blade. get it to idle on 8-12* spark warm with little IAC correction and then the IAC will be able to add when cold. also use ECT spark correction to add 5-8* when its cold to maintain idle. enable AC spark torque bumb switches

• Once warm: It'll usually idle ok. Maybe a little surge here/there. Put it in gear and drive off and it'll often backfire out the exhaust. Then it'll kinda surge forward and sorta "clear its throat". -like its rich and loaded up or something. it cant tell difference between P/N and gear for idle. reach a happy medium that allows idle in neutral and gear given you have no PCM additions based on gear selection. again more physical air for idle and use timing to work with you

• Down the road its not so bad. Fairly smooth. use STFT to dial in the VE table and stop the car having to add so much on cruise.

• Full power. Good, but I know there's a lot more left. depending on boost level 9.6:1 static comp and 421cubes should take more that 11* timing. need to know boost level to be sure but the 2.9 will need you to use up all the midrange as its far too small to make big top end on those cubes.

• Coming off power. It comes back to idle most of the time. It will however occasionally die. Enough to where I find myself using my L foot to brake in case I need to peddle it back to life. Once I blip it, it typically settles down again. more physical air... set cracker speeds back to near factory. allow the pcm to use cracker strategy between rolling idle and adaptive idle to maintain target rpm. use idle spark tables in the vacuum area (0.28 and below) too add spark to maintain or increase rpm or remove spark for the opposite.... perhaps also target 100rpm when rolling above 0km/h

• Off idle power, as in, leaving a light while driving normal. A hesitation, then it goes. Not always though. IFR table makes no sense... 80kpa column has weird number. if you have boost ref reg then fill that table with your injector size in every column. if you have returnless system the enter stock values, highlight entire table and multiply repeatedly by 1.02 until the 0kpa column is the same size as your injectors. then dial in your VE table as trims show lean.

• Fuel economy seems to suck royal ass. Not that this engine was built for that of course, but I would think it'd be better than what it is. IFR and VE tables and PE/BE triggers

• Last: This log didn't have the WB hooked up. So, likely useless I'm betting. I have a Ballanger 500 v2. Just no time to set it up before going to work. One question regarding that. I can't seem to figure out how to get it to output Lambda. I see where the settings tab is, but it won't let me. Any ideas on that?

Thanks for looking


Current tune and latest log:

• 6-13-2018_new trans.hpl
• 33.hpt

[KFXGUY]

I agree. I forgot to tell you to get it idle 150-200rpm below your target idle with no iac steps. You should not be able to kill the engine with zero iac steps. That’s what has worked for me anyways with bigger cams.

[LRI]

Ok, a little progress.

First. IAC was pegged at 340. To get it back to its range I opened the throttle body 1.25 rotations on the screw. This pissed off the TPS sensor of course. To fix that I slotted the holes and trimmed the locating pin. I reinstalled and set it to read .4%

Then a ritual: Unplug IAC/TPS. Key in. On for two min. Key off. Key on for 2 min. Reconnect. Run the scanner. Clear the CEL that pops up from the stuff being on with plug out. Then, start and see what happens.

Motor did fire, but it's stupid rich on the initial squirt. .6-ish lambda. Big ol puff of black smoke on startup. I had to hold the pedal to the floor. But, once it fired, it held 1100 rpm for about 30-40 seconds then started to pull on the IAC step count. It settled around 100. I adjusted the blade and did it all over. Now I'm 70-90 range. The initial startup still sucks, but I'm working on that.

For now, no idle up/down anymore. Torque settings for AC hadn't been touched so I worked on that. That seems better too. Now just to get some VE table adjustments figured out.

Thanks guys!

[LRI]

Two tune files. One is "supposed" to work, but doesn't worth a crap.

Tune 1:

6_20_2018_MalCal_030.hpt

Brent_30.hpl


Issues:

• Will not start unless you stab the gas when you crank it
• When it fires, big plume of fuel smoke and it has to "clear its throat" before it even attempts to settle down
• VERY cold blooded
• Lambda in the .9-ish range at idle.
• Idle quality sucks. Choppy. Sounds like a Pro Stock car. Cam is a 118*LSA so it should purr.* (more on this below)
• Will not tolerate AC being on south of 140*F ECT
• Idle RPM way too low. -200 from where it should be (800)
• IAC count goofy
• Zero ability to accelerate car unless you feather the gas pedal continuously
• Absolutely will not tolerate any meaninful throttle input. It falls on its face and the WB pegs in the 1.4L range.
• The scan's STFT settings shows a big ol patch of lean just north of idle. Then it seems to want to try and fatten up. I don't dare stay in it any longer though for fear of hurting something.
• Prone to exhaust backfires
• Engine is all over the place when in park and applying throttle. Won't build RPM the way you'd expect it to. Up/down, sputter, feather the gas, gets a little better, then starts all over again the moment you hold steady with the right foot.

Idle:

With the WB reporting .8 to .9L and the KPA in the upper 50's to low 60's it'll purr at idle. Baby smooth 99.9% of the time.
Leaning it back, it will not settle and run smooth. Ok, fat on idle, I can live with that I guess although plugs (BRE7's) likely will grow to hate it.

When it idled best I had the IAC in the 90 range and the TPS was reading .4 to .8% closed. It's a 109mm TB. No holes drilled in the blade thus far.


2nd tune file:

33.hpt



5_17_2018_TUNE 4_(25).hpl

It has issues, but does allow the car to start, idle, and it'll lay hate when you stab it.

• Fires on the 2nd turn of the key. Won't catch first time around no matter what
• 2nd time, it runs. The rpm is lazy and it surges, but it'll build as it warms up
• Surge, surge, and more surge. It's continuous. Never goes away.
• Does not typically die at a light, but it'll dip way down before it comes back
• Off idle acceleration soft spot. It'll not really sputter, just goes flat, the lunges to life.
• Prone to exhaust backfires. X10 when cold.
• If you get the car off idle and into the upper 1000's to low 2000's for rpm and stab it, it'll make power. Pulls pretty well, but I know there's a ton left.
• Smells perpetually rich. WB seems to support this.
• Constant rpm steady cruise puts you in the 1.02L range on the WB, so not too bad.

I've been on here enough now where some of you know who I am what I have for an engine. It's a fairly wild piece. Seems like there is crazier stuff out there though. Injectors are ID1300's.

Input appreciated.

[ksauto]

thought from a noob here but is there any specific reason its still tuned as a 5.7?