lq4 4l80e mpg while towing

[itsforsale2]

I am currently working on my tune for my mostly stock 2006 silverado. The truck is used to haul my slide in camper with my race truck on a trailer behind it. The truck is all stock except a cold air intake. I have spent a bunch of time working on getting the fueling correct with driving around town unloaded so i feel confident that is ok. I am looking to gain some mileage out of the truck while towing this combo. I am also getting a little KR in the upper cells near 4k rpm. I would like to remove that. I tried lowing the timing the those cells and the surrounding ones without success. I would like to tow comfortably at 65 mph and get 11 mpg with this combo. Can someone also look at my trans tune too to see if there is anything that could be fixed? I know every little bit counts.

BTW the truck has no problems pulling this load up the passes or cruising it just likes gas.

I am usually tuning for max effort max power in my race truck so this is a little different. Thanks in advance



86k miles
6.0 4l80e
extended cab long box
slide in cab over camper with gear 1,500 pounds
race truck with trailer 7k pounds
4.11 gears
yokohama geolander tires like new 265/75/16 80 psi
Cold air intake
stock clutch fan (hardly ever turns on)

18-08-18 14-09-52 2006 lq4 4l80 with camper.hpl

06 chevy tune checkup 8 18 18 reduced timing and burst knock speedo corrected.hpt

[5FDP]

Clean up the VE table, it's way too choppy. It must stay smooth like factory so it's not bouncing all over the place on your fueling.

On the PE stuff, maybe alter it slightly so it's not commanding stoich when you are at 90% throttle. Maybe do 75kpa on the MAP, 80% torque enable, 75-80% throttle and 12.0-12.2 commanded AFR. Needs less timing too to try and stop the knock. Mid to upper 20's in a lot in a stock 6.0 that I assume is running regular 87 pump unleaded. Try low 20's under heavy load, like 20-23 degrees.

You could try to run more timing at partial throttle to help some but I don't know if it will do much. Now it seems to be around the mid to upper 20's, not sure if going to at or low 30's would do any better. It's just really hard to make those trucks get good mileage. Our old shop truck got 10-11 mpg no matter what you did with it, maybe got 13 with nothing in it just cruising at 60-65mph.

[Frost]

V lq4 4l80e mpg while towing

lol

[kingtal0n]

I know this isn't apples but I've been gradually squeezing mpg from a 5.3+4l80e combo in a 3000lbs vehicle, I am approaching 23-24mpg and expect to hit at least 25.

The main things that uses fuel is weight and rotating mass. I don't know if it is possible for you but you could focus on reducing some of that weight/rotating it might really help.

lightweight: driveshaft, rotors, wheels, internal trans components, flexplate, converter (perhaps the biggest difference from a converter)
-less rolling resistance tires
-alignment, camber, tire pressure

tuning wise there isn't much you can do, the difference between 14.7 and 15.2 for example is almost negligible and pushing timing through higher octane fuels just winds up costing more in terms of the fuel itself which further reduces mileage (by increasing the cost of fuel)

[85K5Jake]

I know this isn't apples but I've been gradually squeezing mpg from a 5.3+4l80e combo in a 3000lbs vehicle, I am approaching 23-24mpg and expect to hit at least 25.

The main things that uses fuel is weight and rotating mass. I don't know if it is possible for you but you could focus on reducing some of that weight/rotating it might really help.

lightweight: driveshaft, rotors, wheels, internal trans components, flexplate, converter (perhaps the biggest difference from a converter)
-less rolling resistance tires
-alignment, camber, tire pressure

tuning wise there isn't much you can do, the difference between 14.7 and 15.2 for example is almost negligible and pushing timing through higher octane fuels just winds up costing more in terms of the fuel itself which further reduces mileage (by increasing the cost of fuel)

Haha. Yeah man just rebuild your drivetrain and spend a lot of money for a few mpgs like kingtalon suggested.

[itsforsale2]

I just wanted to update on this. I smoothed the VE a lot, switched the o2 switch points to 350. The truck did great considering what it is. I managed 10 mpg towing with the slide in camper. I believe this is probably the best it will do considering the weight and the aerodynamics of a sheet of plywood. Power wise the truck did very good. I could pull all the passes with ease and didnt have any problems with keeping up with traffic. Thanks for the input everyone.

[Fast4.7]

I just wanted to update on this. I smoothed the VE a lot, switched the o2 switch points to 350. The truck did great considering what it is. I managed 10 mpg towing with the slide in camper. I believe this is probably the best it will do considering the weight and the aerodynamics of a sheet of plywood. Power wise the truck did very good. I could pull all the passes with ease and didnt have any problems with keeping up with traffic. Thanks for the input everyone.

That is probably about all you will see MPG wise. I tow my 23' Jayco that is 8' wide, 11' tall and 6,000 lbs with a 350 powered Express van. The engine is far from stock with 20cc aluminum heads, 215/224 @ .050 cam, marine intake, tri-y headers, exhaust amd tuning. I tow in OD with the 4L85E, 5.13 gears and 31.5" tall tires. I see 9-10 mpg towing. Shear weight and frontal area is against us.