Has anyone contacted hptuners to ask them if a polarity option can be added to the tables? All is needed would be to reverse the polarity setting and bam!
Check 1:45 here...
https://youtu.be/7C-Y0VsD6pY
Has anyone contacted hptuners to ask them if a polarity option can be added to the tables? All is needed would be to reverse the polarity setting and bam!
Check 1:45 here...
https://youtu.be/7C-Y0VsD6pY
I did and got a response.Originally Posted by amrg
They are going to look into it.
Hopefully it's something easy.
That would be awesome. All the problems would be solved.
I hope they release a lot more of the fan stuff... and the alternator stuff.
It would be nice to get the alternator to build more juice (it’s a pwm system as well) when soemthing like a Spod etc is running offroad lights.
Last edited by fifty; 01-05-2021 at 05:04 PM.
Thats good to hear! When i spoke to them a few years back they had no idea what i meant (didnt help that i didnt know how to explain it either).
Im looking into the Zl1 fans now sincs it seems mine took a dump. I recall that a 1KW fan was produced by spal but I cant find if it was applied to a vehicle, was hoping if its the same diameter Id buy that one onstead of the 850watt version
I'm not completely sure I explained it correctly myself. I did link this thread to my question since Brent from Spal has provided a good explanation as to what the fan is looking for.
From what I've read on PWM duty cycle, it seems to be a line in software modification to reverse the output. I could be completely wrong. In Holley's controller, it's fairly easy to switch since it's built in. I don't think it's a hardware issue at all. Just a matter of two different paths to take for the signal. Making the option available in Editor may or may not be easy. I'm sure a lot of people would appreciate the ability to do this.
I got another response. Without a parameter ID, this may be difficult to locate as it will take quite a bit of time. If anyone has any suggestions on the parameter ID, please post them.
Thank you.
I’d make available everything from 18030 to 18060
If I recall correctly (I don’t have my tune open), those are the beginning and ending box numbers for the fan controlling stuff.
So everything in that area should be fan controller related.
I don't believe that's the parameter ID. I could be wrong.
I borrowed this screen shot:
I get exactly what is shown in this image.
Nothing else I've done will show me anything regarding fan duty cycle.
I believe that Scanner is where we'd see it although it's not showing. This would give support a direction to go to.
Doh! Maybe here:
And this is Duty Cycle ID:
Maybe just a matter of some math?
Yea. Sorry. I was going off the table numbers in the tuner not the scanner. But yours is smarter lol!!
There is a pid in the scanner for fan on/off that won’t work when the command numbers are reversed.
The engineers are looking into it. Hopefully it's as easy as a drop down.
sounds like you guys have it sorted, I found this a while back.
I have ordered a c7 fan to see if I can mount it on c6 radiator. if not, ill make it fit something lol.
just as a side note, there's a 700watt brushed fan from a Tahoe that bolt in place of the lower 400w c6 housing. I ordered it, but never hooked it up thinking I'd melt the plug, planned on upgrading the plug, but said. eh, I'll just go brushless. seems a lot has happened since I last looked unit it. happy to see it works.
I do dislike these forums don't default to notify you when thread gets active and then you find it years later lol
Please don't confuse the issues these aftermarket-fan guys are dealing with, with what's needed to make the OE GM fans work. The OE fans you just plug in and they work.
I understand that just thought this would back that up as it shows the stock fans vs the aftermarket ones. I'm all for using oem stuff when we can. it slow shows a Bosch truck fan is negative would work with stock ecm.
which reminds me, you have 2 fans one pusher and one puller? what are you trying to keep cool, that seems like a ton of airflow.
Who, me? Nah I only have a single 600w C7 fan.
20190518_014423s.jpg
different guy in the thread.. sorry about that.
just because I couldn't find any pics when searching around. here's my mock up of a c7 fan on a c6 radiator. it doesn't cover completely but compared to the stock half shroud, I think it covers well. enough that I don't think I'll trying to find a 05 c6 full shroud to try and put the motor in. i haven't mounted this in the car yet and probably not for a month or so, but I believe it will fit from just comparing visually.
got it up and running. first drive, it cools the car very quickly when it's on. definitely a nice upgrade and seems to follow the % requested in the scanner.
any one have info on the e38 c6 ecm fan table? what I punch in doesn't seem to be what I'm seeing in the scanner. like I can put 30% at the 191deg box and scanner doesn't show any % on till like 217deg.
I'm sure it's nothing to do with the c7 spal fan mod, just something I've not needed to adjust before, since I just now went to a 180deg stat.
just to follow up if anyone finds this looking to put the c7 fan on the c6 e38 ecm. the fan % doesn't work like you'd logically think.. it didn't hit me till I put 40% across the board in all the temp boxes and the fan % never moved. this ecm seems to use the same base logic of tuning on 2 fans using relays, and then uses a math filter to put a %DC for the fan module. so I found leaving the stock fan curve in there and just copy and paste it a box or 2 to the left, while making sure not to go over 40% in the first box, since that will make it run all the time. I went two to the left and with a 170deg stat(remember the ls stat is on the cold side input and always runs much higher than the stat temp, 187 stock stat runs 210-220) it seems to target and sit nicely around 196deg at 30% fan request, which is like 6amp load. very nice.
anyways, nice upgrade for 300$, moves a ton of air over stock and basically a direct hook up. you don't even need to tune the fan settings if you didn't change the stat.
oh and if you do it in a c6 I found running the power wire to the alternator lug, with an inline fuse, I used a jcase 60amp in 8ga wire, but c7 used a block style 80amp which would be nice to use. but if you go to the aux lug on the fuse box like I did at first, there's a good voltage drop by the time it gets there, the alt wire is pretty thick but it has a 14ga fusible link at the starter before running up to the fuse box. you're asking that 14ga wire to handle a good 80amps or more when the car has everything on max. they sell a wiring kit called the big 3 for the c6 which you could use for 120$, but eh, just moving the fan to the alt lug removes the fan load from the rest of the system, I measured 40amps with the fan commanded to 90% when running with my amp clamp. and only 34 when the car isn't running, so there's some limiting going on in the fan if the voltage isn't high enough. I feel like the alt lug is just a better spot for it and the test of the factory wiring.
lastly there's a fan setting that went the car is hot enough it. will run the fan for a few minutes at 60% with the car off to cool things down, I changed thst setting to 40% as that's about the same current draw as the stock fan at 60, and hopefully more airflow, but I can't measure airflow, so I went with amp load.
I agree with the idea that the forum doesnt notify when an update happens.
I am cooling a 500 hp 6.2L motor in a Hummer H3. Even running a griffin dual radiator the core is still very small (21x20) compared the 30x20 you'd find in a 6.2L 1500 truck. Add to that a confined engine bay and lower skid plates and cooling is at a disadvantage.
Doesnt help having a 1" trans cooler upfront and +120* ambients in summer!
I noticed there are lots of 17" tesla fans sold on ebay. They are spals 300 watt version, i think the tahoe 700 watt fan would drop nicely in its place and be a great upgrade for a/c performance over my 600 watt 14" version.
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