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Thread: couple of tune questions

  1. #1

    couple of tune questions

    so I have been busy working on my SD tune and have much progress with my understanding of how it all works with the serial Wb hook up and how to copy the scan to the main ve table in the editor, I even changed out a couple of parts such as swapping from a 102mm to a 92mm tb, and found that one of my two 320 fuel pumps failed and got it replaced. which made an improvement, and I am working on upgrading my fuel line from the tank to fuel rails here in the next week to hopefully improve flow to help reduce the high injector DS issue.

    so I have a couple questions:

    question 1- I can not figure out why my command afr is so rich. it is showing a full point richer than what would be normal afr so if i am wanting a 14.5 it is at 13.5 and under boost it is showing the same for example if i am looking for an afr of 11.5 it is commanding 10.5 any ideas?

    question 2- Is it normal for a tps% not to go to 100% with the Tb blade flat open in the Tb when pressing down the pedal? mine is only going to 89%. i get my best power when my tps is reading 55-58% and not wot. you can see what i am referring to in my scan at time stamp of 13.08.828. I have tested my tps and even changed it with a new one with no change. it there a calibration for the tps?

    question 3- because my set up is so low on static comp would this affect my dynamic airflow settings? such as , initial zone or any other zone settings?

    question 4- is there a setting i should be looking at to change due to the larger Tb and would the 92mm Tb be causing an issue that I am seeing w my issues in question #2?

    Setup as follows:
    6.0 forged bottom end , dish pistons 7:1 comp
    6.2 stock truck heads
    78/75 turbo
    80lb deka injectors
    twin 320L in tank fuel pumps
    2010 zr1 cam 211/230 @ .050 valve lift and .558/.552 lift
    LS2 cam sensor in timing cover
    Ict billet intake w/92 mm Tb
    napa crb219481 3 bar map sensor ( gm 12223861 alt replacement)
    wastegate w/14lb spring
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #2
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    why are you dropping your boosted afr soo deep. pe and be tables are targets. so your commanding 12.5 through pe and when be kicks in you start at 11.7 and drop commanded to 6.91 on the high pressure side.
    the richest you should be is a high 10 (10.8-11) and most power setups like the boosted afr range from 11.3-11.7. you need to go back and set these to what you want to target and then leave them there.
    pe and be are set and forget tables.
    the formula is (ecu stoich / desired afr = pe or be value)
    to tune the fuel error in you adjust your ve table to hit the commanded fuel that the computer is asking for. use your wideband afr error setup for this.
    you mention an afr error split. if this split is between the gauge and the scanner then you need to transform the wideband channel to a custom offset to get them to line up with each other. the gauge is the correct value and the scanner should be adjusted to match the gauge display.

    tps should go to 100% or damn near close to it. when you upgraded the TB did you set the TPS voltage to oem spec and perform a tps system learn? connect a volt meter to ground and to the tps signal wire. power up the ecu engine off and move rotate the tps sensor until you get around .5 volts at idle (.48-.53)
    then to perform a re-learn cycle the ecu off. disconnect the tps and cycle the ecu to run position engine off for 30 sec to a minute. cycle key off and reconnect the tps. upon next key dont touch the throttle as the ecu will set the read voltage value as the new normal calibration.

    most leave the zone settings in the oem position.

    larger TB usually in the 90+ range need an IAC step vs. effective area calibration. Get the fuel at idle trimmed in using afr error and then use the RussK method to you best ability. Then come back and fine tune the IAC step vs. effective area in and it should be a ton better.

    *** turn your P0101-P0103 codes to Mil on First error or it wont always default the MAF properly. Since you already unchecked the SES box the light will stay off.

    *** how much boost are you running because your commanding ignition advance in the 20* range when it should be under boost. try keeping that closer to 13* under boost until you straighten it out. it needs almost half of what n/a ignition would be under boost.

    *** go into the trans and turn the transmission abuse mode off. boosted setups can trigger this and cause problems.
    Last edited by cobaltssoverbooster; 09-14-2018 at 02:20 AM.
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

  3. #3
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    Something is still fucked with that computer or calibration if you ask me. I have no idea how you can possibly tune it with any accuracy when your VE is so weird and the injector duty cycle pegs 200%.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by 5FDP View Post
    Something is still fucked with that computer or calibration if you ask me. I have no idea how you can possibly tune it with any accuracy when your VE is so weird and the injector duty cycle pegs 200%.
    I think it is wierd too, but I have changed computers , and started over from scratch with both the ecm and laptop, and it ends up the same, I have been able to tune it down on the VE and I am currently at about half the values that I was at a few months ago. I am currently working on changing a few mechanical hard parts to see if that makes a difference.

    Cobalt:
    I have tried to get my tps to read .5 v but my tps (which is a stock tps) has no adjustment. So I am currently having to modify the Tps mounting screw location to get the tps to read the .5, I currently reads .37v at idle. Also what is RussK method? Also my timing I know is high but it can handle it due to the low comp, I used to run this motor on 30lbs of boost at 26 den of timing on pump gas with no detonation or knock , and it runs better at 20 than at 13deg

  5. #5
    Advanced Tuner
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5FDP View Post
    Something is still fucked with that computer or calibration if you ask me. I have no idea how you can possibly tune it with any accuracy when your VE is so weird and the injector duty cycle pegs 200%.
    Agreed, something is really wrong. It shouldn't be running based on the cal..

  6. #6
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spoolnsquirrels View Post
    I think it is wierd too, but I have changed computers , and started over from scratch with both the ecm and laptop, and it ends up the same, I have been able to tune it down on the VE and I am currently at about half the values that I was at a few months ago. I am currently working on changing a few mechanical hard parts to see if that makes a difference.

    Cobalt:
    I have tried to get my tps to read .5 v but my tps (which is a stock tps) has no adjustment. So I am currently having to modify the Tps mounting screw location to get the tps to read the .5, I currently reads .37v at idle. Also what is RussK method? Also my timing I know is high but it can handle it due to the low comp, I used to run this motor on 30lbs of boost at 26 den of timing on pump gas with no detonation or knock , and it runs better at 20 than at 13deg
    For tps grind the locator nub off and slot the screw holes a bit. this will make your oem sensor adjustable. I use holley TB's which come with an adjustable sensor base to help out but before them thats what i did. the other is the ignition.

    something is wrong.. those ignition values arent typical and from what you say about 30* its like its shifted 10-15*. i wonder what a timing light would say at a fixed advance value of say 15*
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by cobaltssoverbooster View Post
    For tps grind the locator nub off and slot the screw holes a bit. this will make your oem sensor adjustable. I use holley TB's which come with an adjustable sensor base to help out but before them thats what i did. the other is the ignition.

    something is wrong.. those ignition values arent typical and from what you say about 30* its like its shifted 10-15*. i wonder what a timing light would say at a fixed advance value of say 15*
    I have checked my timing with a timing light and compared it to the lap top readings and they are dead on. I even set a fixed timing on the ecm in many different deg of timing and it all matches. I have already removed the nub and slotted the tps, that is why I need to alter the set screw locations

  8. #8
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    interesting.
    im not sure what to say. the other users have valid points about the ecu behavior.
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman