2012 Camaro SS M6 HyperTech Tuned used as Reference HELP
Camaro SS M6 Cam (TSP - the profile looks like a stage 3 per the cam card) and bolt-on's (Long Tubes, Axel Back and CAI)
I just bought this car with this setup and it was tuned using a HyperTech Max. The unit is still in the glovebox so I can put everything back to stock if need be to start but I was wandering if I could pull the HyperTech tune and use it to start a cleanup tune in HPTuners or would I be better to start from scratch. the car smells really rich at idle and seems like it needs more timing in the midrange as it is a little sluggish at 4000 rpm. I would like to start where it is for now and cleanup the MAF table a little and as I said add the wideband to work on the VE table as well.
I am just getting started with tuning sooooo I am pretty green. I would like to un-marry the HyperTech and sell it to buy a good wideband. This is my daily also so I need to keep my down time to a minimum if I can.
Thanks in advance for the help.
And the stickers are gone as there is no way this car is running at 575HP.
I Would save myself some headache and return back to stock. Every engine and vehicle are different. Its not possible to tune every car the same like the pre-loaded units Market.
Pulled Hypertech file and downloaded a stock file from the HPTuners Ripository to use as a base for new tune. I am really a little nervous to flash it back to stock because this is my daily and it needs to stay running. I will take my time and go though each section one by one but it really doesnt look like they did very much at all. I posted the .hpt file if anyone can tell me what they think of it. The scan file is from a couple of weeks ago it is a long drive to work (20 min) and a couple of good pulls.18-09-26 19-13-51.hpl2012 Camaro SS Comparrison File HyperTech Base Tune 10-12-18.hpl
I don’t have HP on my tablet to see your log but you probably have a fairly safe tune if it smells rich(cats?) and you think the timing is low. I would not put the stock tune back in, it will be lean. You already have HP so get that wideband and massage the existing tune and have fun doing it.
Just saw you want to sell the hyper tech to fund a wideband. You could/should pull plugs to read them to make sure it is safe, but I bet this tune is FAR safer than the stock one with your mods. Save up for the wideband, adjust your tune accordingly, then unmarry the hypertech and sell it.
Didn't have a chance to look at tunes but just curious... Does this car drive decent with this cam? Figured it would be bucking bad with that cam without being tuned for it based on time I've spent tuning those cams.
It does buck at low speed and thats one of the main reasons I am trying to clean everything up. I doesnt like to go back to a clean idle most of the time when I engage the clutch either and will often die. I pulled #1 plug yesterday and they look great nice and clean slightly tan color on the base of the ceramic so its not running to rich. I have a new AEM x-series wideband on the way and it should be here by the end of the week so I will be hard at it this weekend. Again I am just a little nervous that I wont get this figured out over the weekend and have a dead bone in the driveway for a week or two.
I looked at the stock tune compared to the Hypertech and its not much different.
I hate to say this hyper tech died in the 90s back when you actually pulled chips out of computers. Just make sure you install your aem x before cat but NOT AT COLLECTOR. Here?s why where the 4 tubes meet the air tends to flow uneven at idle and reads richer than it actual is so it?s best put in actual round exhaust no bigger than 3 inches. Your going to find w long tubes your upstream o2 settings are going to need changing. They?ll keep trimming out fuel at idle so don?t try the Ltft stft method to tune your idle it won?t work. If you post base map I?m sure one of us can help you get started. Who makes your long tubes so I can give you an idea where to place your wideband and do you have cats ??
Yeah Hypertech seems very cookie cutter now for sure. I was told the car was tuned by the deal that built the car just after new and the Hypertech is in the glove box so I don't really know if that is what they used or something else because they wont answer my questions about what they did or didnt do. I bought the car the way it is so I have no idea what has or has not been done so I have no idea what LT's are on the car unfortunately it does have cats in place yes. I will get the car in the air and I will look for a suitable place to add the bung for the O2 per your suggestions I have heard of that issue before back when I was running turbo Buicks.
I will get the wideband on this weekend I hope and post a log of the idle. Should I do a couple 3rd gear WOT pulls as well?
well i wouldnt go wot yet. id make sure you have no lean spots first dial in Virtual ve first use the eq error histogram if you dont know there's a viddeos on how to set up on how to set up error histogram if your using an aem x just click on generic wideband and have it connected when doing your logs. I will warn you now DO NOT FLASH IT WHILE THE AEM X IS CONNECTED TO OBD PORT!!!!. you will get write fails errors ect. take the couple seconds to remove it from the obd port. make sure if your using eq error you set your wideband settings in your log lambda not afr. the eq error reads in ones and set decimal points to one or 2 it will get closer to desired results. Your giong to spends 90 percent of your time in the vve section. Build your VVE as best you can up 3200 rpm first as its the hardest section to build cause you have long tubes. it changes flow readings much more around 2500 rpm on these cars. Remeber before you do every log reset your fuel trims otherwise you might have fuel trims from last run in your ecu. the absolute best way if your car idles great on stock tune dont touch the VVE as it will throw it off and cause it to lope like a cam and run like crap.DO NOT TUNE MAF FIRST thats sooooo wrong. DO NOT TUNE MAF BELOW 2250 WOT frequencies. in other words, if your wot after you reach max kpa reading is a freqeuncy of say, 6050 don't touch anything below it. You will have to be careful when doing these runs as you have to be somewhere you can start out real slow then lay into it. If you rev to high part throttle say 4000 rpm half throttle you can cross that frequency and screw up your low rpm maf frequency. im not There are ways to set up multiple histograms where you can have a throttle percentage variable where it wont log unless your above that area. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvYjDJo1rRQ this will show you how to make ve histogram on log https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ozJz-pNFCuo&t=5s this is how you set up aem x or generic wideband. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jpqm2SEtagw&t=34s this will show you how to log your wb for eq error rember at least one decimal point.
heres a few settings for a good starting point adjustments since you have headers once youve tuned your vve from 75kpa down then do part throttle above 75kpa with eq error and adjust above that. Remeber paste by percent half ALWAYS other wise you will over shoot. You want to hit 11.8 wot thats what i set the Power enrichment chart for. Tune your VVE up to 3200 rpm to reach that AFR then Above that use the Maf. The best way is with wide band eq error but when you log click the yellow button tab that looks like a round power button and go to fuel turn closed loop off turn ltft off and reset ltft and record. once youve done this your car should stay in open loop and you can tune youre VVE more acuratley this way you do have to turn of deceleration fuel cut off though. look up on how to change settings for that. Dont worry leaving Power enrichment on for this as it calculates that into the eq error historgram. make sure your long term fuel trims arent moving and youll know youve successfully put the car into open loop. Do this with the scanner NOT the editor. Its the easiest way youll have your VVE dialed in much faster. Loging maf error aftwards is way easier use eq error with at least one decimal and copy and paste your MAF frequency from your tune and it will give your your error percentage. Remeber Maf is for WOT do not tune low rpm with maf it will cause lean tip in studders and other problems only WOT 2500 and above. When you do this AFTER youve tuned your VVE you change MAF dynamic rpm setttings to 2500 and 2300. Its a lot to absorb but keep working on it ifyou need help PM me I can guide personal I dont mind taking the time as I am out of work cause of Illness. I wont be returning anytime soon for medical reasons.
last tip open and closed loop VVE should be the same so you dont have screwy transitions. always duplicate both and save your previous version incase you mess up. 3 rd gear is fine because 4th youll be going way to fast after your all done use your PE table after you have a matching 11.8-1 which is what it is set to. You match your tune to your PE you should not use the PE to tune your cars WOT afr. I set it a bit rich to start you off use a compare file to adjust your settings and when your done set your GAS PE to 1.20 not the 1.25 it is now. Thats only there to give you a safety margin so you dont lean out
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