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Thread: need help nailing down idle

  1. #1
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    need help nailing down idle

    I've been fighting this 2010 Camaro for 2 days now....I basically started with a procedure much like BigMike's guide. I established the minimum idle airflow, which was around 7.8 g/s, seemed low but i ran with it. After enabling the adaptive controls it just falls apart. I've played with the integral settings, enabled/disabled proportional settings, moved spark advance up and down, brought the desired idle rpm up, and about everything else i can think of. It basically idles high at startup and tapers down to commanded rpm and then just dies. i've attached a log of it doing that and another log of me trying to keep it alive with the pedal. I can make it idle on its own at like 1300rpm, but bringing down ANY airflow or multiplier eventually results in it just stalling out. Surely that cam doesn't "need" to idle at 1000rpm?

    The car has a custom OS from originally going turbo'd, but the shop that started it screwed everything up and the owner go pissed and brought it to me. It's now NA with a BTR stage 4 cam, deatschwerks injectors, headers, and a FAST intake with a NW 102 dbw. I honestly think my VE has something to do with it. It's pretty rough even after some smoothing but every time i revisit it, it comes up being that rough. I'm commanding each RPM on the dyno and getting a ton of steady hits in each cell and it still ends up being very rough. I think it could be the root of my problems, but i've gone into the idle area and adjusted it with fuel trims. The car made 389hp and 350ft lbs on my MD 500...seems low to me but that's with some pretty aggressive spark and it didn't gain/lose much adjusting the AFR. I need to go back and richen it up a bit around the mid range but that's neither here nor there. I need to get the idle figured out. I can go back over the VE later. The MAF is spot on and forcing MAF only doesn't change how it idles at the moment.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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  2. #2
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    I fought it for a while before noticing the BR7EF's. I switched out to TR6's and that seemed to help. Same symptoms, just less severe. I plan on doing a sanity check tomorrow and look for vacuum leaks, but i really don't expect to find any.

  3. #3
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    alot of positive numbers in the throttle follower torque usually they are positive below idle and negative above id prob try that table back to stock encase its causing conflict with the airflow corrections, proportional enable is still maxed out in file also and looks like adaptive spark is showing that its adding as engine dies but actual spark isnt increasing it just gets lower as rpm goes lower causing it to stall, looks to be commanding rich also which may be making it a little worse

  4. #4
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    still can't get this thing to idle right i've gone back and forth on airflow, retuned the VE with a new wideband, adjust proportional and integral fueling all over the place....no change. I can't find any vacuum leaks or missing/broken hoses....Is it possible that its a fuel injector issue? They're FIC's from Texas Speed if i remember. Also, the WOT fueling, while spot-on, forms a jagged curve on the VE table. Is that normal? I haven't seen one quite like that before. Any ideas on what i'm missing or what the problem could be?

    Thanks guys.
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  5. #5
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    id prob focus on the timing if u can stop it from taking that big negative all of a sudden make it smoother there will help and also the fueling commanded is moving around with load if u can stop that by changing the OL tables so it is only changes with coolant temp for cold starts but not with map then it will help also, good to log IPW, idle spark adv, desired idle rpm, also and it may be better to change the min PW to the smallest value but in all cells cos if ur against that and rpm shifts then it will change fueling at the same time, if u can settle those areas down it should improve it alot more, all its doing now is fuel/air/spark are all varying and its chasing itself and its own over corrections at the moment, also at 51c coolant temp u drop out of CL and thats where the EQ starts to vary also cant see what is causing it tho but fixing that will help also

  6. #6
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    In that log about 35 seconds in I used the scanner to disable closed-loop to see if that helped restabilizing the idle

  7. #7
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    ok if u go into CL its prob better to make the commanded fueling not move around like it does, the EQ changes will be ignored with CL enabled and trims active, with the OL fueling tables i make mine a bit before operating temps all equal 1.0 so u can dial fueling in with WB or use trims if u have them active

  8. #8
    your vacuum is reading really high and did you change any predicted coeficents or sensors?? its way to high of a reading as if your under load and less vacuum which is why it wont run its not just fueling your sensor calibrations are way off. You shouldnt need over 1000 rpm to idle either. Unless you have such a ridiculous cam and its overkill. Please double check your sensors and if you have changed any you must correct the offsets for each one. I Think you will have much better success here. Even when you brought the idle up even with a cam it wasnt correct. Please get the oem part numbers off map sensor or sensors. Find which car or cars they come off of then put the correct sensor offset numbers in and go from there. I dont think your vacuum is reading accurate hence no matter how much you fight it youll be off. Check everything parts to settings including Injectors offset vs kpa not just flow rate. Back to basic settings before you chase your tail.

  9. #9
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    It's a pretty large cam, 235/239 .627"/.624" 111LSA. MAP is a brand new GM LS3 sensor, it had an aftermarket 3bar map for going turbo, but the previous shop butchered his car and i'm trying to line it back out with the new NA setup.