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Thread: Tuning for Fuel pump voltage booster

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    Tuning for Fuel pump voltage booster

    Hey guys. I have a '16 Gt Stage 2 Whipple on whipple's tune that I have been playing with. It has the Dw72 injectors the kit came with. I am wondering if I throw a JMS Voltage booster onto the pump, is there any changes needed in the tune to make it work properly? I have had a couple instances where the injector duty cycle goes over 100%, and the throttle is cut running a small pulley. I tried the Dw415 pump and it is no better, if not worse with that pump. I tried searching for tuning adjustments needed, but was unable to find any help. Suggestions?

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    is it controlled via boost/ETC or is it an "always on" type of booster?
    It doesn't have to be perfect, it just needs to be done in two weeks...

    A wise man once said "google it"

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    I was looking into the JMS which comes with a hobbs switch to come on with boost pressure.

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    Quote Originally Posted by F1scamp View Post
    It has the Dw72 injectors the kit came with. I tried the Dw415 pump and it is no better, if not worse with that pump.
    Are you looking at what fuel pressure is doing? if you're not really losing fuel pressure but maxed IDC then that's an injector issue. I would imaging 72s would be enough but don't know what fuel you're using.
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  5. #5
    I thought you were buying a 2018 LOL. I think you might be having pressure drop due to boost levels and the fact that the factory pumps bleed pressure at 58psi. I think Joe is having the same isse on his 2016 whipple car with 3.2 pulley. The 72s will support more if you go return style system.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kcc0521 View Post
    I thought you were buying a 2018 LOL. I think you might be having pressure drop due to boost levels and the fact that the factory pumps bleed pressure at 58psi. I think Joe is having the same isse on his 2016 whipple car with 3.2 pulley. The 72s will support more if you go return style system.
    I am going to be getting a 18 or 19 with the 10speed. Decided to give it one more shot for a 9 second pass. Fuel pressure was dropping throughout the run's, the Dw400 dropped like a rock. I am somewhat confident in the install, took it out and bench tested and found no leaks, guess I got a dud. A brand new factory pump is back in. Just received the always on vortech bap, going to install it tonight. I have a track rental Friday, going to see what it does with the 3.375 pulley. According to Vortech, no tuning changes should be needed as it is always at 18.5v

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    Should not be any additional tuning changes since it will supply the same psi.

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    I would think no changes to the tune would need to be made specifically for a boost/throttle position referenced bap.
    It doesn't have to be perfect, it just needs to be done in two weeks...

    A wise man once said "google it"

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    From what i've seen the only tune change is where you'd like to switch from low speed frequency to high speed. The pump is pulsed so even with the voltaged raised you can have two speeds. VMP i believe says to up it from .8 to 3 if i remember right. I'd say this is a preference based on what type of power adder is used and what rpm it comes into boost.
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  10. #10
    I wonder if it is possible to up the voltage without a BAP?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kcc0521 View Post
    I wonder if it is possible to up the voltage without a BAP?

    BAPs wouldn't exist if that was the case. It's their sole purpose.

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    Alternator output voltage, but it doesnt compare to a BAP.

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    If you up the voltage in the tune, it will up the voltage to the pump, whether you have a BAP or not.

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    It seems like a very bad idea to up the alternator voltage more than a few tenths of a volt. BAPs increase voltage to ~20V. None of the charging system was designed for an alternator output that high. Why would you risk burning out your alternator, voltage regulator, even possibly frying some part of the PCM, just to avoid buying a relatively inexpensive BAP?

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    Quote Originally Posted by CCS86 View Post
    It seems like a very bad idea to up the alternator voltage more than a few tenths of a volt. BAPs increase voltage to ~20V. None of the charging system was designed for an alternator output that high. Why would you risk burning out your alternator, voltage regulator, even possibly frying some part of the PCM, just to avoid buying a relatively inexpensive BAP?


    I agree just getting a BAP is the best idea for pushing the fuel system, but that said I set mine to 15v in the high demand even with the BAP. Yea it could cause the alternator to burn out quicker but i don't think it'll hurt the ECM or electronics at 15v esp for short bursts. Most ECMs have some wiggle room for voltage. The reason I did it was to supply higher voltage to the coil giving a little stronger spark output. In low demand i set the voltage slightly higher to 14.2 for a little less latency in the injectors at idle.
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    If the electrical systems were not capable of handling another 1.5- 2 volts, Im sure there would be much more electrical problems in these cars. You can argue things will last longer at the factory settings, but so would every other aspect of the car. More voltage makes everything work more in the way you want them too, not just the fuel pumps. Id say better, but that is a relative term, longer life may be better to others.

    15V compared to 19V+ from a BAP, and the potential of it being boost activated. That's the reason you buy a BAP. At that point you could argue 'just get a bigger more efficient pump instead of driving the small stock pump harder'. I think a DW400 is cheaper than most if not all BAPs anyway.

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    Quote Originally Posted by murfie View Post
    If the electrical systems were not capable of handling another 1.5- 2 volts, Im sure there would be much more electrical problems in these cars. You can argue things will last longer at the factory settings, but so would every other aspect of the car. More voltage makes everything work more in the way you want them too, not just the fuel pumps. Id say better, but that is a relative term, longer life may be better to others.

    15V compared to 19V+ from a BAP, and the potential of it being boost activated. That's the reason you buy a BAP. At that point you could argue 'just get a bigger more efficient pump instead of driving the small stock pump harder'. I think a DW400 is cheaper than most if not all BAPs anyway.


    I think it's the battery itself you would wear out much more quickly. There is a reason there is a table to reduce charging voltage based on temperature. Putting 16v to a hot battery isn't a great idea.

    What is an extra 1.5 - 2V really going to get you in volumetric fuel flow? If you are that close to to the limit of your fuel pump, I sure as hell wouldn't risk blowing up my engine because I was too cheap to get a better pump or add a BAP.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CCS86 View Post
    I think it's the battery itself you would wear out much more quickly. There is a reason there is a table to reduce charging voltage based on temperature. Putting 16v to a hot battery isn't a great idea.

    What is an extra 1.5 - 2V really going to get you in volumetric fuel flow? If you are that close to to the limit of your fuel pump, I sure as hell wouldn't risk blowing up my engine because I was too cheap to get a better pump or add a BAP.
    But battery temp is inferred...

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    I know raising the pump voltage, with a 21v bap in my 14GT500 swelled the stock fuel rails like a balloon.
    I need to put an actual gauge on the line to see what it's actually doing pressure wise. Datalogging the pressure in HPTuners is all over the place. It's not outta fuel, but I can't see what pressure is actually doing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MRRPMBRP View Post
    I know raising the pump voltage, with a 21v bap in my 14GT500 swelled the stock fuel rails like a balloon.
    I need to put an actual gauge on the line to see what it's actually doing pressure wise. Datalogging the pressure in HPTuners is all over the place. It's not outta fuel, but I can't see what pressure is actually doing.
    Because fuel pressure is inferred as well.