start up and dfco help

[Spoolnsquirrels]

The issue i am having is on start up and dfco, so on start up i have to give it almost full throttle to fire but when it does it only runs if i hold the throttle for a about 2-3 min till the engine temp gets up to about 90deg and then I can take my foot off the throttle and it will idle at 800 like i have it set to, that is on a cold start. on a worm engine start i still have to give it throttle but as soon as it fires i can let the throttle go and it idles fine.

and as far as dfco when i let of the throttle to caost to a stop it tries to die i think cause it is getting really rich, it is showing that on the wide band. but the idle gets down to about 400rpm and the Wb is showing 10.2afr. so my problem is I cant figure out how to adjust for that with running a SD tune.

I know i have had issues with running in the past but now as far as my running I have that going really good im just having the above issues.

set as follows:
Setup as follows:
6.0 forged bottom end , dish pistons 7:1 comp
6.2 stock truck heads
78/75 turbo
160 lb bosch injectors
twin 320L in tank fuel pumps
2010 zr1 cam 211/230 @ .050 valve lift and .558/.552 lift
LS2 cam sensor in timing cover
Ict billet intake w/92 mm Tb
napa crb219481 3 bar map sensor ( gm 12223861 alt replacement)
wastegate w/14lb spring

log and tune below

[Spoolnsquirrels]

? Any help

[cobaltssoverbooster]

that cam likely needs some air and your braf values look low. they are more likely needing to be closer to 11 or 12 g/s at 800 rpm. this "pushing the pedal" is telling you that you need more airflow.
log:
desired idle airflow g/s
actual idle airflow g/s
then make a histogram that plots desired idle airflow against coolant temp. make the temp axis match that of the braf table. set cell hits to 50
start car in curent setup and let it idle without pedal if you can get it to do that. if you cant then you need to go in and raise the braf values by 2 full points until it will idle on its own without pedal input. any pedal input can drop the car out of idle mode so having it run without pedal movement is a big deal.

sit there in park from a cold temperature all the way until its warmed up which is probably about 15 minutes or so depending on how cold it is when you start this process. the colder the better.
set the histogram to display average values. copy the results and paste them directly into the braf.
this is how i get close without waiting for the idle trims which can be slow.

after this you will likely have to go check your fueling. use the russ k method to finalize the braf and idle quality. remember that fueling is 75% of the idle issues we see in the forum so when you get to the russ k method you need to make sure that your fuel trims are staying on point while making changes.

[Spoolnsquirrels]

one question? what is braf? is it base running air flow?

[TCSS07]

yes

[Spoolnsquirrels]

So i made many adjustments in both directions to braf and i have had no success with my issue. I still have a issue with startup getting really rich to a point that i have to flood clear with the throttle to get it to start and then have to rev it up a couple of times to clear out and run smoother, but even then on a cold start i have to give about 3% throttle for about 30m sec before it will idle on its own.

Problem #2 is when i come to a stop it tries to flood out and die. but only when the running temp is under 180 deg if its at 180 them it idles great with no issue.

any help would be great i still have the tune in for above.

[TCSS07]

your going to need at least 2 more g/s of air to your braf from your posted tune file and id add 2 g/s to iac park position as well and see how that fairs - again based off posted tune. don't know what changes you've made since but it defiantly sounds like you need more idle air
you might want to up your throttle cracker airflow in the lower rpms to help catch your falling rpms if thats an issue
your idle isn't setup really how i would do it - im sure your vehicle would like more than 800 idle at 46 degrees
is the injector data is correct?
if your going to be running in o/l mode you need to set the the 140 temp and higher in all map ranges in the open loop eq ratio chart to 1.0 and probably have to disable the after start and pn/drive enrichment so you command stoich at all times during logging/tuning in non pe mode so you can get proper data by keeping the fueling consistent - its all over the place in your log - this chart is also probably causing your rich/flood condition at cold start ups - i see your log is showing a commanded afr of 10 - way to rich for your mods - im sure you vehicle hates it - lean that out to like 11-11.5 and see how it goes and it will probably also help your cold starts by not having it dump so much fuel - the numbers are eq ratio based like the pe ratio so you'd take your stoich and divide it by the number to get the actual afr commanded but you need to remove the after start and pn/drive enrichments also like i said above or just lean the numbers out until you get the scanner showing an 11-11.5 commanded at start up