GEN 5 Flashing tips No starts part throttle problems o2 stuck abs lights ext

[jpierro79]

Im seeing a lot of people with after flash issues like anything from stuck o2 sensors to part throttle operation and even no starts. Please listen carefully.
1 Nothing in the car can be turned to on. NOT AC NOT RADIO NOTHING NOT BLUETOOTH Key ONLY
2 Do not touch anything during flash.
3 Do not open doors during flash
4 Do not leave anything in obd port like aem x wideband it must be removed before each flash
5 Do not have vcm scanner on in background or any other programs not even screen protection during write your screen must stay lit
6 Save your file close vcm editor reopen your new file fresh and the write calibration
7 If you happen get whacky problem dont freak disconnect battery then make sure you follow steps 1-6 but do full rewrite

Im writing this cause im seeing a ton of glitches and problems and what you dont understand is that all the communication to all modules comes through 2 wires and are joined to multiple modules so if you touch anything in the car you interupt the writing signal and can cause serious glitches. Ill give a perfect example. I accidentally moved my vent speed control during a flash and my steering and abs module would not read even with a snap on scanner. Had to disconnect the battery and do a full rewrite. I hope this post helps those with prolems
one last thing is you must have internet connection to do a proper read and newest NOT BETA version of vcm suite

[Higgs Boson]

sorry you are having these problems. I haven't experienced any of those things on about 50 GenV vehicles and I write all the time through my AEM can wideband and exclusively use the latest beta updated almost daily for the last several years.

I think something is wrong with your car.

[jpierro79]

im not having these problems other people are look there are 3 z06 lt4 one with dead car wont start after reflash so please dont assume its me i had 2 glitches over many flashes that was due to me leaving my obd aem x plugged in while flashing and one time i change the vent speed settings If you knew wiring diagrams about ecu communication you understand they share the same 2 wires I am trying to help other people so dont assume my car is broke thanks

obd connection uses a 2 wires communication to all modules an outgoing and an incoming if you interrupt them with any other module by you can interrupt the flash and also cause KAM memory freezing. If you repaired cars including electrical as a profession you'd understand im trying to help people if i had a problem id post it. The two wires run data out and back to all modules. if you operate any module during a flash you risk interrupting the flash. I am only trying to help these people recover their 80k dollar plus z06 cars without doing a total dealer re flash and chasing their tails. Im pretty sure most of the people dont have access to a j2534 module and laptop like i do to rewrite an entire ecm. Plus the cost of the software. Dont you think its nice to help other people??? Dont you think they want to stop chasing their tails for no reason?
you can write through the aem x but you cant write while its in heating mode. Your more than welcome to try it and see what happens. I recommend pulling it out because its transmitting data through the same lines your trying to access the ecu through. Its a fail safe in case anyone happens to take the key out or their aem is wired power key forward only not to shut off like mine does only when key is out. Not everyone wires things in the same.
Ive programmed many cars in my 20 years of shop repair and now most they require j2534 module which is oem ecu writing and the procedure requires a digital charger on the battery and up to hours to programing and you cant touch anything or it can ruin the writing. Ive had to have guys before i had my own rewrite it cause they did somehting stupid. If you program a Vw with Unitronic on your laptop without a trickle charger and a jump box on an mk7 platform it will brick the car communication from ecu to tcu. Now Unitronic doesnt tell you this but it happens every time. Now I dont know if your just lucky but if youve written 50 gen v vehicles your a tuner and you should know that i am only sharing failsafe info for other people to help the DIY guy. ive tuned sti's focus rs vw gm and dodge ls3 zl1 tuned with efi live and to be honest if youve tuned so many cars and never had a glitch or a write time out your either lucky or your using the mpvi original and its more stable than the mpvi2. Either that or you already know not to mess around with other things like ac controls while flashing. I used cobb tuning previouisly to be honest I never once had a problem with cobb. Ive used sct. It was an epic fail i hate it and it can brick cars. you can try to flash back to stock and guess what it wont go back to stock. I wont use sct. Bottom line is please dont assume ive got a problem when i post something. You dont know me. I dont know you I wont assume anything about you. So please do not assume anything about me or my cars.

[Y2kHawk005]

im not having these problems other people are look there are 3 z06 lt4 one with dead car wont start after reflash so please dont assume its me i had 2 glitches over many flashes that was due to me leaving my obd aem x plugged in while flashing and one time i change the vent speed settings If you knew wiring diagrams about ecu communication you understand they share the same 2 wires I am trying to help other people so dont assume my car is broke thanks

obd connection uses a 2 wires communication to all modules an outgoing and an incoming if you interrupt them with any other module by you can interrupt the flash and also cause KAM memory freezing. If you repaired cars including electrical as a profession you'd understand im trying to help people if i had a problem id post it. The two wires run data out and back to all modules. if you operate any module during a flash you risk interrupting the flash. I am only trying to help these people recover their 80k dollar plus z06 cars without doing a total dealer re flash and chasing their tails. Im pretty sure most of the people dont have access to a j2534 module and laptop like i do to rewrite an entire ecm. Plus the cost of the software. Dont you think its nice to help other people??? Dont you think they want to stop chasing their tails for no reason?
you can write through the aem x but you cant write while its in heating mode. Your more than welcome to try it and see what happens. I recommend pulling it out because its transmitting data through the same lines your trying to access the ecu through. Its a fail safe in case anyone happens to take the key out or their aem is wired power key forward only not to shut off like mine does only when key is out. Not everyone wires things in the same.
Ive programmed many cars in my 20 years of shop repair and now most they require j2534 module which is oem ecu writing and the procedure requires a digital charger on the battery and up to hours to programing and you cant touch anything or it can ruin the writing. Ive had to have guys before i had my own rewrite it cause they did somehting stupid. If you program a Vw with Unitronic on your laptop without a trickle charger and a jump box on an mk7 platform it will brick the car communication from ecu to tcu. Now Unitronic doesnt tell you this but it happens every time. Now I dont know if your just lucky but if youve written 50 gen v vehicles your a tuner and you should know that i am only sharing failsafe info for other people to help the DIY guy. ive tuned sti's focus rs vw gm and dodge ls3 zl1 tuned with efi live and to be honest if youve tuned so many cars and never had a glitch or a write time out your either lucky or your using the mpvi original and its more stable than the mpvi2. Either that or you already know not to mess around with other things like ac controls while flashing. I used cobb tuning previouisly to be honest I never once had a problem with cobb. Ive used sct. It was an epic fail i hate it and it can brick cars. you can try to flash back to stock and guess what it wont go back to stock. I wont use sct. Bottom line is please dont assume ive got a problem when i post something. You dont know me. I dont know you I wont assume anything about you. So please do not assume anything about me or my cars.

Thanks for starting this and the response. To put it bluntly, shortly, or however you want it. I have a 2000 Trans Am Firehawk where in 2007 I put a LS2 (LQ4) 408 Solid Roller set up in my car. Here is a list of mod's.......408 solid roller (265 / 272 @ 0.50 inch - lobe 106) Direct Port NOS with 2 fuel tanks. LSx 90 w/ Nick Williams TB, newest addition 2017 - Texas Speed 247 Heads 360 CFM @ .750 lift - this is my problem.... need to adjust for heads (previous 330 cfm at .700 lift). 52 lb injectors, Kooks 1 7/8's - no cats, Callies Crank, Callies Compstar rods, lunati rollers, M6 rebuilt. Moser 12 bolt - 4.10 spool. UMI K-member, Upper control arms, lower control arms, rear lower control arms, torque arm, panhard bar etc.

Currently my car starts, runs and I can drive it, but it is obviously in need of some adjustments to the tune. Previously, I had the NOS tune on my car until I upgraded the heads. Since upgrading I put my street tune on my car and have 1 data log so far. I am not able to drive my car very far as I need to get it legal on the road. I am still very new to the tuning side and reading, searching and looking for the right answers or help just to get my car on the road. Here is my tune file and data log file. Please help......Jim_Stewart_engine_tune (12-2017 Rework of 5-2009).hptData 1 (10-6-18).hpl