Sorry I'm mobile atm but take a look at your burst knock settings - I zero them out or atleast cut them in half and for a test you can remove 2 or 3 degrees of timing in the areas where it happens or put in some 93 and see if it goes away and if it still happens double check and make sure no exhaust is hitting or anything anywhere and if that's ok you could desensitize the knock sensor settings a little bit
do you have a wideband? if not get one so you can check your wot fueling because you should be able to handle more than 17 degrees - shoot for a 12.5 afr to start
yeah i looked and i see you changed a few charts around that i don't touch like the throttle maps a-d and MBT Spark so im not sure if that would cause any problems or not but i don't really see anything in your tune that would make your car be knocking like it is unless you have a mechanical issue with the engine, exhaust hitting or bad fuel something like that but my question still stands about if you have a wide band installed in your vehicle because you may be knocking because the wot fueling is incorrect
Well since you still havent answered the question about a wide band I'll just assume you dont have one installed and im also assuming you didnt put in 93 to see if it changed or helped so let me ask what have you done to try to fix the problem? Pulled plugs,checked fuel,checked exhaust,knock sensor torque?
first a wideband will be helpful. second why do you have PE correction turned up so much? why is your high octane table 17 across the board? also your IAT base is pulling timing earlier then i would pull. usually around 113-122 i start pulling timing. also verify no exhaust rubbing or touching.
Need OEM tune you've changed so much compared to an l99 file stock from repository and yet you wrote ls3. Please is anthing done to motor and where is original tune. Need a comparison along any mods at all. Also you must have wideband. We can help but flying blind to your changes it could be something as simple as a faulty knocksensor. Monitor which cylinders are reading knock. If you have one bank then there is your answer. Again need original base map and we already have your current. Not to mention compared to base IAT timing you've added 4 degrees almost to half the chart If we are going off an l99 auto you've changed multipliers which will drastically change timing. You never do this. Also if we are off an l99 chart you've added timing all over the low octane chart which is there incase you get a bad tank of gas. shows adding up to 15 degrees in some points. Your high octane chart also lists more timing add this with low octane chart adding more multipliers and you've add we more timing than you think. The only time to touch the Iat offset is incase during high IAt you remove timing. Don't mess with multipliers. Set all your timing back to stock. ALL of it. Data log which chart you are off of by seeing the timing by a dyno pull and the add 1 degree to which chart your running off of until you see Knock retard. Then pull 1-2 degrees Provided youre saying an L99 this is way off stock and this is why your having so many problems. I magine you increase a multiplier by 20 percent at 17 degrees that is simply an extra 3.4 degrees but then you take into account your other charts like Iat offset and your addied 6- 10 degrees or more
If you look at the Cylinder air mass, you are not getting over about .72-.76. At 6k RPM, you are commanding about 24 degrees of timing. You are then adding somewhere with a multiplier as stated. Fix that. Also as stated, PE should be around 1.175= 12.5/1 for base tuning start. Some of the knock looks like you could increase knock decay rate to get rid of the knock hanging on so long. Do you have an exhaust leak on Bank 1? Bank 2 shows O2 numbers I would expect for as rich as you are, but bank 1 is what I see when running around 12.7-12.8 AFR. Second hit looks like you are in the .85 range of Cylinder Air at 4k, so I am assuming this is a stock cammed car. Fix the knock decay, and put some more timing into the top end of your spark table. Pull 1-2 degrees out of your cells around .68-.80.
stop messing with other charts. The only charts you should touch are recovery rate and main high octane. Maybe the amount of retartd upon knock detection. DO you like having an engine? Not to sound like and @## but seriously if you don't know stop and ask. Your vehicle does NOT REQUIRE THIS MUCH MODIFICATION. Add one degree to high octane till you see any retard at full load and i dont mean add 1 degree everywhere i mean the top 50 percent and then take 1 degree out here and there depending on fuel running also without wideband this is all useless info fueling is the first this to tackle. unless you have some stroked lsa modified with lsx bottom end to 427 cubin and ported heads stop messing with factory settings. if you feel im wrong ignore me but i love cars id hate to see you blow up a good motor. please your not going to magically discover 30 hp the rest oif the 10k tuning world hasnt. please. I am practically begging to you to listen i blew only one engine in my life and it wasnt an ls. why my psycho family member with mental problems contaminated my oil w speedy dry. Now with that being said this will be my last post on this unless you open your mind
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