deleting MAF and bank 1 front 02, run single 02 SD mode help needed

[cb2004mj]

hello hptuner gurus. I'm needing some assist, and bare with me as ive been turning wrenches for the better part of 20 years but I'm new to the hptuning world. so details on the build, gen 4 6.0l lq4, mild cam, tbss intake, single S480 turbo, with flex fuel and 4l80e trans. I'm in the middle of modding a stock 06 van harness to fit my needs, adding the flex fuel sensor, deleting emissions, rear 02s, etc.....


so heres the question I need verification on if it can or cannot be done and why. I'm looking to delete the MAF because the truck will be tuned in SD. any issues deleting this in the tune as well or any one care to give a brief overview of how to accomplish that so I have a rough guide where to dig? second and harder question is I'm adding wideband and inputting it via the egr pinout of the ecu so I can view it both via hptuner and gauge. the turbo manifold is cast so I cant run the passenger front 02 bung anywhere but the downpipe. if I do that then my front 02s would be comparing driversbank(in the crossover pipe) and the overall in the downpipe. so can I delete the driverside front 02 sensor in hptuners and harness and only run a single pass front 02 in the downpipe for tuning and my wideband right next to it? I just don't want to have unnecessary wiring and three-4 02 sensors in my short downpipe for no reason.

thank you all for any assistance you may be able to provide on this. I wasn't able to find any concrete info on doing things this way so maybe this will help others in the future as well. have a great day! Matt

[5FDP]

It's either run both front o2 sensors or none. You can't do any closed loop tuning with only 1 o2 sensor, it must have both on those computers.

Lots of guys do run them in the downpipe, it's up to you if you want to do that.

Deleting the MAF is easy. Set the MAF fail high under engine diag to 0hz, set all 3 MAF dtc's to MIL on first error. You can also change the dynamic airflow settings to 8,000 and 7,900 so it's always using the VE table too.

This does require that you wire in a separate IAT sensor.

[jpierro79]

You can also put no error report it will still not read. provided you proper disabled it in daig by setting it to below minimum htrz. This does the same thing just no MIL. Now as far as intake air temp must be placed in the manifold itself other wise it will be inaccurate. Those wires must be separated and attached to a proper intake temp sensor and you have to set the offset settings correctly. You have to put your o2 sensors before your turbo for most accurate readings BUT as long as you place them both in as close as you can before any converter you should be okay. 5FDP is right you can not run one o2. You will not get trims accurate at all. The only way to do you what your asking is get an holley efi dominator ecu and harness. That ecu can use everything including wideband and to be honest it self tunes fuel by its self 90percent . Ive seen one in action its amazing. I still say if your 6.0 if you add in zl1 maf your to going to cap it and it will make your tuning a lot easier provided you tune your iat offset correctly Maf just makes boost apps easier to tune.

[cb2004mj]

awesome news even if its not exactly what I was hoping for...now to ask another dumb question...since I'm building the harness can I just wire the two front 02s together to one sensor? will it read proper? I just hate to have three bungs and 02s off my downpipe when I only have one doing stft and one I'm monitoring. so jpierro79, your suggesting instead of deleting the maf and wiring in a sole IAT, rather I should get a Zl1 maf and install that sense its boost friendly I assume? I haven't deleted it in the harness yet and was about to but can be swayed to do something smarter

[cb2004mj]

also you stated if I do go IAT that it needs to be installed in the manifold not the charge pipe just before the TB? is that what your saying sir?

[Smoky68]

Just commenting to learn....

[5FDP]

I have heard of people wiring the front o2 sensors together but not sure how well that works.

You said the engine you have is a LQ4, am I safe to assume you posted in the wrong section as that engine is a GEN 3 from 1999-2007. If so those computers would either be a P01 or P59 and those work far better without a MAF sensor with boost. I wouldn't even consider running a MAF sensor on a GEN 3 computer with boost because the upgraded OS's make speed density tuning such a breeze.

[jpierro79]

awesome news even if its not exactly what I was hoping for...now to ask another dumb question...since I'm building the harness can I just wire the two front 02s together to one sensor? will it read proper? I just hate to have three bungs and 02s off my downpipe when I only have one doing stft and one I'm monitoring. so jpierro79, your suggesting instead of deleting the maf and wiring in a sole IAT, rather I should get a Zl1 maf and install that sense its boost friendly I assume? I haven't deleted it in the harness yet and was about to but can be swayed to do something smarter

absolutely not as the returm signal for both o2 will be altered even if you use one or 2 o2 sensors. You can not add two 5 volts systems to one sensor and expect an accurate reading there is such a thing as parallel resistance and series resistance. Just put both your o2 sensoros as close as you can to your down pipe but not inline preferably opposing with some space and not upside down so they don't collect moisture. You'd be far better off getting an e 67 ecu having a seperati iat sensor in the harness and using that iat in the manifold and a zl1 maf to tune your WOT boost ranges. Your still going to need to build a VE chart so its driveable like stock car. Look into car audio it will explain the difference between resistance or parallel and series. Its ok to have both o2 in the downpipe but I would Highly suggest you use what ever would come with whatever your ecu would have. Say its from a 2010 camaro then use those o2 that will help your driveability. The Maf can handle the boost ranges and make sure you tune your power enrichment so that your fuel matches never use your power enrichment to achieve fuel. I hope this helps. Heres why you never combine a sensor. Im going to use a household vs 220 outlet for an example. If you combine the 2 black wires on both sides of an AC outlet it becomes 220 with a ground. versus a neutral white wire with a ground is 110. This doesn't work exactly the same but its an easy reference as to why you should not do it.