What's with my spark at WOT?

[jbassking]

I have a few things I'm trying to accomplish.

1. Is to idle without stalling
2. Have power from idle to WOT.

I've been playing around a little bit with the spark under Idle Spark advance to help with the stalling issue. I think I'm making some progress.

After a little driving I figured I would go for WOT from a stand still. Well... the car felt like it just sat their a bit and slowly started building power.
Looking at the log, the TPS wsa 16.2% and the spark was 17.5. Right as I floored it, when the TPS hit 38.9%, the spark dropped and hit a low of -5.0 at a TPS 69%. The spark did start slowly climbing but only got to -1.6 when the TPS was at 97.3%. From that point it continued climbing but very slowly.

The time in the log is 01:54:49.933

I also noticed some KR of ~2.8. At this point the spark was at 30.

I have a 2012 L99 with a DOD delete. My cam is 223/233, .629/.629 lift, 114 lobe separation, 107 intake center line. And 2" long tube headers

driving.hpl
my tune 750 rpm idle 1 degree more timing.hpt

I appreciate any help. Thanks!

[TCSS07]

your o2 mv are all over the place during your pull you need to get a wideband o2 if you dont have one to tune wot fueling its the only way
idle issue is what exactly - has a hard time starting? when it starts it dies? most likely will be a idle base running airflow issue so try adding 1-2 g/s of air to the braf and maybe add 1 g/s to cranking air flow from .5-4.0 from 133-306
if your n/a set your pe ratio to 1.1736 (12.5) ....... (14.67/12.5=1.1736) and tune your maf until the wideband reads 12.5 during the pull - the pe ratio is a set and forget table and bump up that enrichment rate - i normal start out at 1.0
disable enrich desoot mode (fuel/general/bottom)
you also have some torque management enabled - shut that off
knock recovery rate from 3k on down set it to .5 - that will help with the recovery rate of adding spark back when no more knock is detected
you seem to have a decently sized camshaft set idle timing to 20-22 degrees from .60 airmass to 1600rpm

answer to your other posting
your map reads 100kpa at koeo which is normal living around sea level
map seems normal to me - what issues are you having about that?

[jbassking]

Thanks for looking at this TCSS07!

I don't have a wideband so that's an issue.

It is a little hard to start and when it's cold, it will stall in gear. I usually have to put it in neutral at lights until it's good and hot, otherwise it will stall.
I'm going to go over your suggestions and see if it helps. First I have to figure out what all of it means.

As for my MAP question, I wasn't sure if during idle if it should have been higher. I had read that it should be closer to 75.

My wife got me the tuner because having it tuned is out of our budget and she figured I would have fun learning how to do it (which is true).

[TCSS07]

is your camshaft a vvt cam? upon 2nd glance it does appear to be a little low but it reads correct at koeo if you live at sealevel from your other log from your other posting
yeah get the wideband asap not having a properly tuned wot afr is the reason probably your car feels like a dog during wot
under idle/rpm portion for base just make it 800 from 154 to 306 and then for the start up idle for p/n and in gear make everything under 800 - 800 ... maybe even up the idle a tad bit more around 850 or 900 - raising the idle will also help to stabilize it
under idle/airflow portion - braf - is base running airflow (airflow final min) add 2 g/s to the whole chart and add 1 g/s to the start up airflow in the temps i posted above from .5-4 sec and from 133-306
yeah im always messing around with my car lol
if you open the chart and right click on the mouse you can change the units of how the tables are reading

[jbassking]

Yes, it has VVT.

[TCSS07]

I haven't really had much experience with vvt cams - I've done vvt deletes so maybe the vvt cam is what's effecting the map readings hopefully someone else can chime in also. But your map reads around 100 at koeo right?

[jbassking]

you also have some torque management enabled - shut that off
knock recovery rate from 3k on down set it to .5 - that will help with the recovery rate of adding spark back when no more knock is detected

Which setting should I disable for the torque management?

Are you saying for the knock recovery rate to set it like this?

knock recovery.PNG

[TCSS07]

Yes sir - that will help with the recovery rate of the ecm adding your spark advance back after no knock has been detected

max torque gear 1-6 set to max
default trans limit set to max
brake torque limit set to max
for tcs method i keep stock - spark enabled,fuel cut disabled, etc enabled and disable powerhop,spark and fuel cut or if you want the system gone completely either disable everytime you get in or set enable temp to 493

[jbassking]

Where are the settings for when I press the button in the car to turn off the traction control and stabilitrack? I would think that would shut the torque management. Am I wrong?

[TCSS07]

Not the overall engine portion of torque management just tcs
If you have a tcs button on your dash somewhere you can hold it down until tcs and stabil turns off

[jbassking]

Ah... ok. Mine is a press once to turn off traction control and a second time to also turn off stabilitrac.

You had said

max torque gear 1-6 set to max
default trans limit set to max
brake torque limit set to max

Do I set the full RPM range to 6042 for each of the above?


BTW - thank you for all your help! I really appreciate it.

[TCSS07]

Set the whole charts to max yes

[jbassking]

I'm still getting a negative timing rolling into WOT. -7.5 is the most retard. I notice that my O2 B1S1 is much lower than B2.

I think I've made all the suggested changes.

wot.hpl
my tune max torque.hpt

[TCSS07]

you still have desoot mode enabled - disable it
i would just set your car in maf only mode - personal preference on those ecms - since i hate the vve charts and how they function
your still running stock maf chart which would be incorrect now due to your mods and id stop doing pulls until you get a wideband installed because your playing with fire by not having one (just don't want to see anything happen to your engine)
up the pe enrichment rate to 1.0 and set your pe ratio to 1.176 (12.5 afr based of 14.7 for stoich) and when you get the wideband installed tune your maf to read 12.5 (on the wideband) give or take .2 so it matches what your commanded afr/pe ratio is set for - thats the proper way
your timing issue going negative like it does is because of your spark chats - look at when you punch the throttle your at 800 rpm and it spikes into really high cylinder air mass ... your high octane spark chart is asking for -4.5 and your ect spark adder is asking for -2 in the 212 degree column (your actual is 207 but it falls into the 212 column) so total/actual is -6.5 degrees advance you'll have to raise your high octane spark to eliminate that spark dip during your initial throttle hit in the airmass it falls into
i would set the idle spark timing to 22 degrees from .60 to 1600
disable burst knock also or at least cut the values in half and you still haven't fully disabled torque management ... brake torque management is still on and the little subchart switches under max torque (gears) - you still have some enabled - forgot to mention those last time, sorry
street tuning - 3rd gear will net you better data when it comes time for wot fueling tuning because it stays longer in the cells giving you better/accurate data - i do the pulls in 3rd gear from 2000 rpm to redline and tune the maf to read my pe ratio like i stated above ... 1.176 (12.5) your car might like leaner or richer afr but you'll only find that out on the dyno but a 12.5 afr is a good starting point for n/a
some of this im just recapping on from my earlier posts that weren't changed in your latest updated tune

[G8NOOBIE]

i totally agree with T. i looked over the tune also and would rec doing what was suggested as a starting point. i used to live in lake worth lol right by wellington. now im stuck with T in chicago area getting pounded with snow currently

[jbassking]

It looks like I'll be getting a wideband then so it will be a little bit before I can give an update.

Thanks again @TCSS07

@G8NOOBIE - I cringe every time I think about moving back to the cold (I'm originally from NY).

I'm not familiar with all the terms you guys use. Are there any books you can recommend so I don't seem so dumb?

[G8NOOBIE]

Greg Banish dvd I think and maybe Dan Maslic book. Look up those names they might help

[jbassking]

Thanks! I'll check them out.

[lukearmstrong1990]

disable injector desoot switch
zero out the burst knock tables to disable it (knock retard will correct it if its real)
disable fast torque exit switches
max out fast torque exit tables
remove your PE delay RPM to o
set your enrichment ramp in to 1.5 or 2.0

try that and report back

[jbassking]

@lukearmstrong1990, are you referring to Base vs. CylairDelta, Mult vs. RPM, Mult vs. ECT and Mult vs. IAT? These should all be set to 0?