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Thread: VE Tuning- Am I Doing This Right?

  1. #1
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    VE Tuning- Am I Doing This Right?

    This is my first time trying to VE Tune with narrow band. Am i doing this correct? scanner wouldnt let me do LTFT and STFT by itself so i did bank1 for each in the math. would like to know if this is correct before i start applying the changes? thanks for any help/advice offered.ve math.PNG ve layout.PNG 2001 tahoe 1st ve.PNG 01 tahoe VE run 1.hpl
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    Last edited by It Will Run.Maybe; 11-25-2018 at 05:38 PM.

  2. #2
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    I'm not sure exactly what you're asking.

    Can you post your tune and your scan log?

    Were you trying just to get LTFT plus STFT? There is a maths for that.
    Also, why not use the LTFT's for each bank?

    The first recommendation usually given here is to make sure you turn off all the adders that might effect airmass and thus screw up your VE values - disable MAF, turn off power enrichment, etc. Without doing that, you're never sure what your chasing.

    Once you're happy with your data, then you can just paste the adjustments from the scanner into your VE table. It looks lean right now. it wouldn't hurt to add 5% to your VE table and see what that does.
    Peter Young

    1966 LandCruiser FJ40 with 6.0l Gen 3 vortec and 4L80E.
    1984 LandCruiser FJ60 with 5.3l Gen 3 vortec, Magnusen supercharger, and 4L60E

  3. #3
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    01 tahoe 4.0 ve tune1.hpt and 01 tahoe VE run 1.hpl thats what im trying to figure out. the correct math to use, i showed what im using in the pics. how do you do the math with both banks?

  4. #4
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    When you create a graph in the scanner, there's a section called Maths and in it there's a LTFT+STFT that gives you what I think you are looking for. However, I also use LTFT bank 1 and LTFT bank 2 as they show different.
    Peter Young

    1966 LandCruiser FJ40 with 6.0l Gen 3 vortec and 4L80E.
    1984 LandCruiser FJ60 with 5.3l Gen 3 vortec, Magnusen supercharger, and 4L60E

  5. #5
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    I found it thanks. Seems to be pretty dialed in and staying really close to 0 on fuel trims. i set everything back to normal and applied the mods to the VE table. seems to be allot smoother now even though the 3D VE chart looks really spikey.3D VE chart.PNG

  6. #6
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    You can't leave the VE table looking like that. You need to make sure its smooth.

  7. #7
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    so i should interplate it between the spikes?

  8. #8
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    My experience was that as I spent more time dialing the tune in the spikes went away. But yes, you can't leave those spikes. Either spend more time tuning VE until you work the spikes out, or use the smoothing tools first and then do more tuning to see what that shows you.
    Peter Young

    1966 LandCruiser FJ40 with 6.0l Gen 3 vortec and 4L80E.
    1984 LandCruiser FJ60 with 5.3l Gen 3 vortec, Magnusen supercharger, and 4L60E

  9. #9
    Senior Tuner kingtal0n's Avatar
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    Easiest way to do this is using a wideband, ill show couple pics
    First we drive and let it log a ton of data
    wbafter-a-day-of-tuning.png

    Then make corrections (lots of methods for this part)
    ve-differences-after-tuning-with-WB-input.png

    Finally VE map should be pretty smooth
    latestve.png

    tip: it depends how you personally prefer to tune, whether or not the VE will be completely smooth. For example I prefer to richen up mixture slightly prior to PE coming in, so my VE map tends to "lean out slightly" just after PE kicks in to take that fuel back out, which makes it looks flatter in those PE ranges than it otherwise would have been.
    Another example would be around just off idle some engines need a bigger 'pump shot' than others, and depending on the software you may need to put a little 'spike' or 'hill' right off idle areas in the VE map, which would look 'wrong' (not smooth) however the driveability may depend on such nuances.

    also notice how I am targeting a/f ratios leaner than 14.7:1 for economy which cannot be done easily with a narrowband.

  10. #10
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    thanks workingdog and kingtalon. ill work on it more this weekend when i have more time. i dont have a wideband yet. which one should i buy? i have hptuners pro mpvi1 #6021 thanks

  11. #11
    Senior Tuner kingtal0n's Avatar
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    i always use and recommend for 10+ years aem gauge, rdy to go in seconds when you turn the key, sensors seem to last a loooooong time for me (never had one go bad but eventually like most things they need to be replaced). It sends 0-5v signal to computer, you can use an EGR input which is 0-5v. theres a you tubes about what is a basic math function of hptuner scanner (they let you write 'code' so for example if you wish to filter all the times when you are off the throttle so they dont show up, you can select tps channel and tell is if tps volts < 0.05 then don't show me that data, etc)