Torque converter lock out

[Brand New Classics]

I think I may be having an issue with my computer not sending a signal to my transmission to unlock the torque converter. I'm using a painless wire harness on a 2002 Pontiac firechicken and 4l60e transmission. I have my brake light switch hooked up properly. Pink wire supplies power and my purple wire has power until I apply the brakes. Using the VCM scanner under vehicle controls and functions, I can unlock and lock the torque converter(I have only confirmed a clicking noise going on and off inside the trans pan I would assume is the tcc). Also in the VCM scanner I can see in my side bar to the left, tcc brake OFF/ON and this works with my brake pedal. So I think the computer is receiving the signal but not sending the signal to the transmission. I think I have sourced the correct wire in the trans plug which is brown and it has power constantly unless in the VCM scanner under special controls and functions I manually turn off or on the tcc solenoid. but the brown wire will not loose power with the brake pedal like I think its supposed to. Can anyone help point me in the right direction. Sorry I'm very new at this. any help would be appreciated. I have also been thinking about purchasing the editorial package on the 4l60E from HP tuners. Is it worth the money and what can I expect from the package? thanks again.

[JoeR]

The brown wire won't lose 12V when pressing the brake pedal on your car. It was the case on older vehicles, but not yours.
On your car, 12V feeds the power side of the TCC solenoid through the 15A ENG CTRL Fuse. It's a Pink wire coming in to Pin E of the Trans Connector.
ground side of the TCC Solenoid goes to Pin 2 of the PCM. It has power until it is grounded, exactly like you found.

If you can cycle power to it KOEO, and you can hear it clicking, I'm betting there is a problem inside the trans. Most likely a stuck valve in the valve body. Possible a stuck TCC solenoid though.

To check the solenoid, drop the pan, drop the solenoid. You should be able to blow air through the solenoid when it is commanded off, and not when it is commanded on. If you are going to use shop air for this instead of your mouth, regulate it down to under 20 psi. Not sure if that's a factory procedure or not, but it has worked for me for a long time.

Joe

[Brand New Classics]

The brown wire won't lose 12V when pressing the brake pedal on your car. It was the case on older vehicles, but not yours.
On your car, 12V feeds the power side of the TCC solenoid through the 15A ENG CTRL Fuse. It's a Pink wire coming in to Pin E of the Trans Connector.
ground side of the TCC Solenoid goes to Pin 2 of the PCM. It has power until it is grounded, exactly like you found.

If you can cycle power to it KOEO, and you can hear it clicking, I'm betting there is a problem inside the trans. Most likely a stuck valve in the valve body. Possible a stuck TCC solenoid though.

To check the solenoid, drop the pan, drop the solenoid. You should be able to blow air through the solenoid when it is commanded off, and not when it is commanded on. If you are going to use shop air for this instead of your mouth, regulate it down to under 20 psi. Not sure if that's a factory procedure or not, but it has worked for me for a long time.

Joe

Thank you Joe. I did some more testing today and I'm starting to feel comfortable that everything is working correctly. Long story short the first transmission would slam into gear and stall the engine out. After a tune I drove the truck 40 miles and it drove awesome. Shifted perfect, cruising at 70 mph at 1200 rmp. After exiting the freeway and sitting in traffic, the trans temp got to 306 degrees and didn't last but another 2 miles. My trans guy said it wasn't pumping any fluid. So before I started the truck with the new trans I wanted to cross my t's and dot my i's. My brake pedal switch is working correctly, my neutral safety switch is reading correctly in the scanner, I did a pressure test and a volume test after the cooler on the return line going back to the transmission. Drove the truck today and everything seems fine. Is there anyway to make sure the tcc is working while driving on the hp scanner? I did pull the pan and blow through the valve after pulling it down it does seem to be opening and closing I just assumed it would open and close with the brake pedal like a 700r would. thanks again.

[JoeR]

Is there anyway to make sure the tcc is working while driving on the hp scanner? I did pull the pan and blow through the valve after pulling it down it does seem to be opening and closing I just assumed it would open and close with the brake pedal like a 700r would. thanks again.

You bet. Easy to test. With the TCC turned on, TCC slippage should be under 100 RPMs. When it is totally locked it it is not uncommon to see slippage as a negative number. It's not really negative slippage. Just a math error. Last one I worked on was something like -67 RPMs with the TCC totally locked.
Keep in mind that your car probable was a PWM controlled TCC, and it is normal to slip a bit.

Glad it's working correctly! ...and you're certainly welcome.

Joe

[Brand New Classics]

well I burned up another transmission in about 30 miles. I have no idea why. It drives gorgeous. shifts perfect. downshifts like it should. I do not know how to figure out this problem but im getting tired of spending 1,000 dollars on a trans rebuild. this will be transmission number 3. I have a bad feeling its something in the tune or the ecm not working properly.