Help Please

[momotunes]

Hello Everyone,

I need some help with a couple of things if anyone would be willing to.

F150 with a 5.4 3 Valve engine. Engine does have mutha thumper cams and the phasers have been locked out. Initially I had some issues with the truck even running. Got some advice on a tune and got it running. Really didn't get to tune it much as I've been busy but after driving it once to move to my house it started to run rough. It threw a cylinder 4 misfire code. I changed the coils and the code hasn't come back. I am having some other issues though.

1 - I think my bank 1 02 sensor is bad (even though it's brand new). Engine will start trimming high on bank 1 randomly and sensor voltage just doesn't look right. Cam timing has been verified, no vacuum leaks, good compression, and cylinder leak down test passed on all holes, no exhaust leaks, and no misfire codes. I installed the wideband 02 sensor on bank 1 and forced open loop. Looking at bank 1 & 2 narrow band sensor voltage I'm thinking the sensor is in fact bad... What do you'll think?

2- The truck has a hesitation on take off. It just doesn't act right and I can't put my finger on it.

3 - Idle timing is all over the place. I know I'm off on idle airflow but can't find any settings that set timing for idle control like GM has.

4 - When the truck shifts into overdrive it starts shuddering. It's done it a few times in third gear as well. I've messed with the 4th gear dashpot settings but they don't seem to help? What else could I adjust or is it due to engine issue?

5 - I've had to adjust the airflow-voltage table a lot from stock. I don't know the Ford ECU well yet as I'm still learning but it just seems like too much airflow. Am I correct or is this pretty typical?

Both photos below are when the truck is in Open Loop

is bank one sensor bad.PNGbank 1 02 sensor.PNG


Tune and log are attached.

Thanks!Ground zero - Start OL - 4.hpt19-02-17 22-06-00.hpl

[momotunes]

Bump

Anyone :-(

[momotunes]

No one is tunning modular 3V 😥

[Y2kHawk005]

Not sure if I can help with what I have going on or not. I'm stuck in a INJ OPEN Loop I cannot seem to get past. HP Tuning school states this can be due to a large cam LS engine. My 02 sensors read in the 410's thru 430's so I know mine are correct. One of yours (if it's the same) is reading very High (800) and the other low (78). Only trying to help, and I do not know your if Ford application for 02's is the same when it comes to the tuning.

[Thatwhite5.0]

I thought I had posted here.That looks like a bad O2 sensor. Replace it again and if it's still bad, check the wires to the o2s.

Go to Fuel > Oxygen Sensors. You have closed loop enable set to 4000 degrees. Set it at 500. You never go into closed loop.

You need to change Fuel Base, you're commanding stoich at all throttle positions.
fuel base.JPG

Your idle airflow is too high and has a big jump from 700 to 800 RPM.


Change Spark Idle in gear and park to
34
34
27
20
20

What cold air intake is on the truck?
Change those tables and see how it runs.

[momotunes]

I thought I had posted here.That looks like a bad O2 sensor. Replace it again and if it's still bad, check the wires to the o2s.

Go to Fuel > Oxygen Sensors. You have closed loop enable set to 4000 degrees. Set it at 500. You never go into closed loop.

You need to change Fuel Base, you're commanding stoich at all throttle positions.
fuel base.JPG

Your idle airflow is too high and has a big jump from 700 to 800 RPM.


Change Spark Idle in gear and park to
34
34
27
20
20

What cold air intake is on the truck?
Change those tables and see how it runs.

Hi Sir,

You did and you really helped getting me going. I really appreciate that.

For idle airflow I had to increase it to stop it from stalling. I have the idle at 800 so I didn't mess with the 700 table but I will make adjustments. I put the closed loop enable at 4000 to so I could open loop tune the MAF using my a wideband sensor. Also left the fuel base table at 1.0 to make it easier. I was going to fix before attempting to tune WOT.

Cold air intake is a KNN. I have the new O2 sensor. I'll install, it's just been freezing cold and I haven't had a lot of free time to work on this truck. Well I have your attention and you don't mind :-). Can I ask a few questions?

First. Am I on the right track with tuning the MAF?
What controls idle speed? Just air flow or will timing adjust? If timing, how do I adjust?
For MAF failed tables. Do I tune by getting the MAF correct first than set up graph to match and log the air load PID? Or do I fail the MAF and adjust by AFR error in open loop?
For speed density.... Map per airmass closed. I noticed it shows "Angle" to RPM.... This is probably a really stupid question but is this throttle angle or cam angle? Something is telling me it's cam angle but I'm unsure. Either way should these be adjusted too eventually?

I really appreciate your time looking into this. I owe you!

graph MAF failed.PNGMAF Failed Table.PNGSD Table.PNG

[Thatwhite5.0]

You can do it that way. Divide your Wideband lambda / Commanded lambda. You can also calculated the volume of the stock MAF housing and the new MAF housing, get the difference and multiply the MAF by the difference.
Idle, pretty much everything is controlled by Torque Ratios, a combination of air, fuel and spark. All of these can and will adjust to attempt targeted idle using Torque Ratios found in the Torque Management Tab. Also since I'm there you can disabled Torque Intervention in that same tab. Normally with a cam you want to increase timing from stock. I've set timing to 15 degrees at idle on a 3v and it ran fine. Torque Ratio is ETC Request / Engine Brake Torque.

You don't need to tune MAF Failed Tables or Speed Density. If the MAF or O2s were bad, don't drive, swap out the part ASAP. I have had a guy drive around for 4 days with no O2 sensors hooked up because his O2 sensors weren't long enough for his longtubes on a 2015. I've never had a failed MAF sensor but I'm sure that would not go well on any vehicle. You made the correct adjustments to speed density if you got rid of your IMRC's by copying IMRC open to IMRC closed and disabling them in the IMRC tab.
There is no real MAP sensor for for speed density and there's even a "Map Sensor - Disabled" selection.

I believe it is the cam angle also. All in all,the speed density and maf failed tables could be left stock because almost every calculation the ECM does will be done using MAF and O2 sensors. As long as your MAF is dialed in and you have your airflow better, you'll see progress.

[momotunes]

You can do it that way. Divide your Wideband lambda / Commanded lambda. You can also calculated the volume of the stock MAF housing and the new MAF housing, get the difference and multiply the MAF by the difference.
Idle, pretty much everything is controlled by Torque Ratios, a combination of air, fuel and spark. All of these can and will adjust to attempt targeted idle using Torque Ratios found in the Torque Management Tab. Also since I'm there you can disabled Torque Intervention in that same tab. Normally with a cam you want to increase timing from stock. I've set timing to 15 degrees at idle on a 3v and it ran fine. Torque Ratio is ETC Request / Engine Brake Torque.

You don't need to tune MAF Failed Tables or Speed Density. If the MAF or O2s were bad, don't drive, swap out the part ASAP. I have had a guy drive around for 4 days with no O2 sensors hooked up because his O2 sensors weren't long enough for his longtubes on a 2015. I've never had a failed MAF sensor but I'm sure that would not go well on any vehicle. You made the correct adjustments to speed density if you got rid of your IMRC's by copying IMRC open to IMRC closed and disabling them in the IMRC tab.
There is no real MAP sensor for for speed density and there's even a "Map Sensor - Disabled" selection.

I believe it is the cam angle also. All in all,the speed density and maf failed tables could be left stock because almost every calculation the ECM does will be done using MAF and O2 sensors. As long as your MAF is dialed in and you have your airflow better, you'll see progress.

I appreciate the help you've given me. Most of my issues were tuning against a mechanical problem :-(. I've worked it out and got it running pretty good now.
I feel like an idiot to admit this but my struggles were due to a lazy spark plug! I don't know what was wrong with it but new Motorcraft plugs fixed 99 percent of my issues. Would have never suspected a spark plug as they were new. Also, if I disconnected the coils on by one (with old spark plugs installed) the wideband would go lean. Must have just been a plug on bank 1 that wasn't sparking correctly affecting the burn? Now with the new set my narrow bands are reading evenly and agree with my wideband.

I didn't know these 3V motors were so sensitive to spark plugs...……