I went back to my stock tune and I have a catless downpipe installed on my ats. Started fine and went for a short drive. idle started to get choppy and it stalled in gear (auto). I know something is definitely off I'm just not sure what. Here are the logs and file
here's a log with my old tune on it. Ran better but still sputter and pops above 4k rpm
Oh dear, do you have a P0300 code at idle? The symptom combined with a P0300 sounds like the broken piston issue. I hope it's not that!
No. The only code I had was for the rear 02 sensor which I don't have anymore. After I put the old tune I had on it, it ran way better but above 4k rpm I'm getting some sputter.
your running super lean make sure you dont have any vacuum leaks and then fix the airflow model with a wideband for wot tuning and you can just use the narrow band/fuel trims to fix idle and part throttle and your not logging knock, o2 sensors,short term fuel trims, iat2 - add those to your scan pids
Last edited by TCSS07; 02-22-2019 at 04:37 PM.
Will do and I'll postOriginally Posted by TCSS07
problem resolved. I had deleted the 2nd O2 sensor and deleted it from reading but a tuner told me apparently the ATS 2.0 absolutely needs the second 02 even if i'm catless?
Now time to figure out how to tune the downpipe to get more power (may leave that for the pros lol)
Good glad to hear it. And yes the rear o2 must be atleast plugged in because the ecm needs to see the data to run a o2 test otherwise it will do goofy shit lol - it did the same on my lsj. So now thats resolved so you can move forward by tuning your airflow model
A lot of ATS have vacuum controlled engine mounts. Have replaced mounts, mice chewed plastic vacuum lines, and leaking vacuum reservoirs. Take off
plastic engine cover and inspect the PCV lines. Mostly plastic. Lines crack and loosen at metal line connections.
Glad you got fixed, but info may help others.
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