Will a bad tune burn up transmissions one after the other. I just burnt up another one and I think it has something to do with the torque converter lock up and unlock or something is not right. I posted a log file which was the drive previous to the one that started slipping.
Do you have a brake light switch with the added functionality to unlock the torque converter when the brakes are applied? Do you see any codes for "TCC solenoid" or anything related to the torque converter.
Rick
I do have a brake light switch hooked up and I have triple checked the wiring. I have power coming into the switch on the correct terminal with the correct color wiring and power leaves the switch on the right terminal and color wiring until I hit the brakes and it looses power like it should. In the hp tuner program I can see I believe it says tcc brake off. it goes on and off when I hit the brakes so the computer is receiving the signal I believe. I have checked power going to the transmission. Power goes through the transmission and back out the transmission on the brown wire. In the hp tuner section under special controls and functions I can manually turn the tcc on and off and I hear it clicking inside the transmission and my brown wire looses power assuming it is getting grounded inside the ecm. So I believe everything is hooked up properly and my gut is telling me its something in the program. The first trans I thought was a crap rebuild supplied by the client and my trans guy said there was no fluid being pumped and the 3-4 clutch pack were desert dry. So on the the whole new case and fresh rebuild I hooked a pressure gauge up to the test port on drivers side of the trans and it put out 170psi instantly and would drop down to about 50 giving it gas. I disconnected my trans cooler return line coming back from the radiator to check for volume. I got about 1 gallon in 30 seconds. So I know the new trans has pressure and volume. Temp never goes above 250 on the transmission temp on my gauges. Heat gun on the pan reads about 230. it was shifting perfectly. took wife to dinner and on the way back it wouldn't want to shift out of first gear I had to drop it down into drive to get it to shift through all the gears. On the second light it did the same thing wouldn't want to shift into second so I tried to give it some gas to see if it would shift and it was slipping so I barely got pulled over. Towed the truck home and this morning it drives forward and back no problem but im afraid to even start it or drive around the block. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
it should never get to those temps,lets see your trans tune.
Sounds like as internal fluid leak..
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Im not sure how to post the trans tune but I have a feeling something isn't right.
post your entire tune, the trans is in there.
Your line pressure should not go up to 170 then back to 50 at idle in park if that's what I read
sounds more like transmission cooler issues to me than anything else. Even with a really loose converter that doesnt lock up till late, it shouldnt reach those temps if the cooler is adequate for the setup.
Michael Bray
Rusty Knuckle Garage
Slidell, Louisiana
20yr Master Tech.
Advanced Level Specialist
Custom Car Fabrication, Customization, High Performance.
GM World Class Technician
Shop Owner
Thanks for the replies. I have a nice walker radiator made of brass or copper or combination or the two. It has a serial number stamped into the tank. It has a 10 year warranty. Engine stays at 200 never goes any higher. I paid 1,200 $ for it. I have the same radiator in a 36 ford car with the same Engine and transmission. ls1 with the 4l60e. The client has over 60,000 miles on the car in 3 years with no transmission cooling issues. Unless I got a bad one which could be a possibility. I did run a volume test on the line coming back from the radiator and got a gallon in 30 seconds. Everything is brand new. I blew out all the lines and the cooler like crazy to make sure they were clean. I think I attached a tune file. and I did make one change to the file after tuning. I added the P/N option because my wiring harness required having a Signal when It was in park and neutral so I assumed that needed to be turned on in the hp tuner editor. Thanks again.
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