Drag racing tuning

[camaroguy28]

I have a 98 z28 with boltons, and I have decided to make it strictly a drag car. it will no longer be street legal, so tuning it on the street is no longer really an option except for maybe a short drive from my house to my brother-in-laws house. I live on a country road, but I prefer to do all my tuning on the track instead of on the street. I know that this could make it more difficult to do since the logs wont be near as long, but its a better option for me.

Knowing all that, I have tuned my firebird, and both of my trucks, and I used the method of tuning the fuel trims on the ve and on the maf, and that has been fine. The problem that I am running into with the Camaro is that I cant do data logging like that, so I am looking for a tuning method for on the track. If anyone has any recommendations, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks to everyone in advance, sorry for the long drawn out explanation.

[5FDP]

Wideband o2 sensor with a lambda error or AFR error.

You log the commanded AFR/Lambda and the error with the wideband. It will tell you exactly how far off the fueling is and you make corrections this way. You can copy/paste the error by % to bring the error down.

[camaroguy28]

Ok. I do have a wideband, and I should've mentioned that in the original post. I do use it to log WOT since its pretty well impossible to tune wide open without it. I guess my question should've been, say I go down the track logging my afr vs commanded. Then when I get back to the pits, I would just do the same process for tuning as usual, but only on the cells that the log read, correct? Do I need to put the car in open loop to do it, like I do on the street tuning stuff, or do I just leave it in closed loop since I run it with the car heated to operating temp? Do I need to tune ve and then maf again, or can I get away with just the maf since its always WOT or idle?

Also, thank you for your fast response, somehow I knew that you would come in here and help me out lol.

[5FDP]

Ideally it should still be done in open loop because you don't want the fuel trims changing anything on you or carrying over into PE.

If it was already close it would only take a run or two to make sure you were within a few %. Both VE and MAF can be done, though the majority of the runs would be going off the MAF if you had the dynamic airflow settings at like 2-3k rpm for the switch over.

Check it over a few time and go right back to closed loop operation and continue to watch your fueling if you need too. Even a couple quick hits on the street would let you know if you do need any fuel changes, so it wouldn't have to be done all at a track unless you get lots of runs in.

[camaroguy28]

I understand, my brother-in-law has a really long straight stretch on his driveway that I can use to dial in first gear, and I may even be able to lock it in second and get a run up to redline, so that would help get it to be closer. It is close how it is, but it could be better since I haven't put many miles on it since my headers and ls6 intake. I will try to take it up there if it ever stops raining here, and see what I can do.

Thanks so much for your help.