I'm absolutely fresh to HP Tuners, so please try and speak in English, ha...
All I've done so far is disable VATS.
I have a fresh built 5.3 with flat tops, 243 heads and a 6.0 liter cam.
Do I need to change settings for fuel/air/timing?
How would I go about it?
Thanks.
2004 Gen III DBW.
Cam specs for 5.3 are:
191/190
0.457 in./0.466 in.
114
The new cam:
196/201
0.467 in./0.479 in.
116
Thats not too far different from the OE cam.... I would suggest calibrating your VE table. There's a few good writeups on here and also on youtube. After that make sure your MAF is scaled right. Make sure you save your OEM file so you have something to revert back to in case you mess up. I'm fairly new to this as well, but its not too bad.Originally Posted by 123pugsy
Why would you take the time to swap in like an identical cam? Doesn't make sense to me. I would say do some studying. If you go to evans tuning he has a bunch of different classes that you could learn from. He charges like 50 bucks a month, and you could learn what you need to in a month.
I'm subscribed to the Evans tuning thing and I will say that he fails to mention to turn off the DFCO and a couple of other things and it did skew my results. Just trying to point out it might be worth getting info from a few potential sources before going out and trying something.
Thanks, ya a lot to learn. I did make some changes to my idle speed today to help keep it from stalling and I did save before the changes.
Scary stuff but when I started it up, oh yeah, that worked. Love it.
Thanks.
Was gonna go with a LS1 cam, but consensus was higher top and and less torque. My stock cam was toast and one came available for 15 bucks in good usable condition, so why not? Motor is going into a cruising 69 El Camino. If I build a drag car one day (will never happen), I'll know what kind of cam to use.
My Engine Analyzer Pro showed I'll have better results down low with this cam than the LS1, or was it the LS3 cam?
Forget which one I was looking at.
It's still going to have stock 5.3 power because the camshaft is not considered any better.
It'll have enough power and stuff to make the car a nice cruiser but it won't knock your socks off for power. I'd say maybe 300hp at the tire, maybe.
Going to a 212/218 with a 114LSA would have been the best route if you wanted more low end plus more top end power. Most cams like that with exhaust will add another 40-50hp or so. But doing so would require better valve springs and likely slightly larger fuel injectors.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
Thanks.
This motor is temporary until frame off time in about 6-8 years as I will have the hot rod done then.
So, budget, smooth running, for reliable long distance cruising.
If I do another engine later, cubes will go up and still run a mild cam. It's what I like.
The LQ4/LQ9 6.0L engines used the later 2001+ LS1 cam from what I remember. It is worth about 30 hp over the LM7 cam and has the same low-end torque.
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