after a week of trying to get my car to start on its own I figured i'd see if anyone is familiar with the e40 pcm idle tables that could help out.
after a week of trying to get my car to start on its own I figured i'd see if anyone is familiar with the e40 pcm idle tables that could help out.
Post your tune and any modifications, and any parts that you left off---maf etc. Engine swap?
2000 Camaro SS 2015 L83 port injected, Whipple 3.0, 4L80E, 8.8 Ford
2013 Silverado 5.3, 6L80k 8.8
i'm sorry man this is my first time using the forum so not sure how to post the tune. I tried copying from editor to paste it over but not working. but I have an 06 manual GTO on stock tune, longtubes to borla catback volant intake and just put in 231/235 .626/.606 111LSA cam with springs etc. besides that everything else on the ls2 is there in stock form. its just a street car so keeping maf.
Have you read the stock tune on your car and saved it to your computer? Do that first so you don't lose the original in case you have to go back to it. Now that you have it saved to documents, it is easy to post. Start a thread and down at the bottom in one of the squares is "Go Advanced"--click on that. It will change screens, scroll down to Manage attachments--click--at the top click on add files---click on browse---find the file in documents--double click--wait for the file--click on upload---wait for upload--click on done and then post.
For a cam change, add 15% to your maf settings, 15% to your primary ve table, add 3.00 to all the Base running airflow numbers from 200to 1000rpm. If your idle timing is still 13 degrees, change those numbers to 18 degrees. Sometimes you need to add startup airflow and fuel, but try those things first. I'm surprised it didn't fire up anyway. Did you leave the cam sensor unplugged?
2000 Camaro SS 2015 L83 port injected, Whipple 3.0, 4L80E, 8.8 Ford
2013 Silverado 5.3, 6L80k 8.8
Also, make your base idle about like this
2000 Camaro SS 2015 L83 port injected, Whipple 3.0, 4L80E, 8.8 Ford
2013 Silverado 5.3, 6L80k 8.8
got it thank you! cam sensor is plugged in for sure. on cold start it climbs up to 1200 or so rpm and back down to 200 rpm and oscillates for a minute then idles good or I have to give it a little throttle so it wont die and idles good. warm starts theres nothing it cranks at 200 to 400 rpm and wont start without throttle at all but when I give it throttle it starts up and idles good. ill go plug this stuff in and see what happens. thank you again!
I have a copy of the stock tune saved. I've been trying to tweak min. idle airflow, startup airflow, base idle spark and raising desired rpm. ive done them one at a time and all different combinations together with no luck. the stock idle maps seems to idle and sound the healthiest out of what I have tried
i adjusted everything above but forgot to lower idle speed. it seemed to idle pretty good. then i reflashed with the lower desired rpm and it seems to be surging quite a bit. should i up the startup idle airflow 10%?
Here man, download this setup and compare what I did to what the stock tune looked like that you posted. There are lots of changes in the file. This is how is start all my stuff out. MAF only and LTFT killed to work on start up and idle BRAF and fueling. We want minimal spark intervention. If the spark moves too much we need to determine too much BRAF or not enough. Get a log from start up to full temp, just let things happen with no intervention from you, don't touch the pedal. I will give you 2 channels list to use. First use the e38 channels list, connect to vehicle and see how many channels are greyed out. If there only a couple then start the car and let it do its thing. If there are LOTS of greyed out channels try the LS1B channels.
Get me a log and we can see where to go from there.
edit: spelling
ok I mapped everything over and wrote the tune in. heres the log, but it wasn't from a dead cold start. I can throw another log of cold start idle when I get home from work tomorrow if need be. it took a few to get going but eventually it started on its own and held a pretty steady idle. when you crank how much should the spark drop? is there a chart we can log to figure out the braf error? how do you use the spark to figure out if there is too much or not enough braf? thank you
Use dynamic airflow to get your braf number. In the one idle spot that I looked at your dynamic was 93.something lb/hr. Your braf chart shows you have 93lb/hr---right on the money. There is one cell in neutral that is lower, you might want to make that the same as the other numbers in the 800 row. When you get too much braf, it will reduce your idle timing. Your timing is spot on according to the posted log. You can raise the braf 650 column by 1.00 as a backstop for the surging and see if that helps. Did you change your overspeed and underspeed spark tables like drbfa1 sent you?
Last edited by Lakegoat; 03-29-2019 at 09:38 AM.
2000 Camaro SS 2015 L83 port injected, Whipple 3.0, 4L80E, 8.8 Ford
2013 Silverado 5.3, 6L80k 8.8
When it comes to spark this is how i look at things. In the base spark tables I know i am, or should be commanding 16 in your case. The reason the spark idle modifier is cut in half. Looking at the log it looks like it held 16 degrees of timing steady with minimal spark changes and the throttle held steady. Because the short terms looked great i then look at the MAF airflow which is 11 to 13 grams a second. So based on what i see in the log and my charts I would add 1 gram to the entire BRAF table. Then for start up I would add 2 grams to the entire table and see how the cold start is.
If you notice at the beginning of the log the throttle blade was at 21%. I think adding 2 degrees to the cranking spark may help with a little quicker kick, down side is it puts a little more pressure on the starter. I will send you my layout so you see things as i do. With the log it looks like the car might have a little chop to the idle, should sound good and once we get start up and idle stable and fueling good we can then add more chop or take it away.
The other thing I noticed is on first start up the commanded fuel oscillates that is something to look into to help stablize the start up and idle. Maybe Lakegoat can help on this????
Last edited by DHC; 03-29-2019 at 10:04 AM.
Look at these changes and apply and relog.
I also gave you my layout for the E40. There will be some missing "Maths" and filters in the graphs. That is something you need to learn how to do on your own. I know I have spent years getting things to act, look and process exactly how I want.
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