LHU with E39 ecu swap in a track Miata - going in limp mode

[JeffKay]

We're doing a build with an LHU and E39a ecu in a dedicated time attack track car. No smog or accessories (AC, PS etc). Custom wiring harness, just the essential sensors and such.

My friend (who is doing the majority of it) has done an LE5 NA, LE5 Turbo with Megasquirt and three LEA swaps - no issues like this.

Basically going into limp mode and cutting the throttle body down to about 20%.

I've attached the tune, a log file and the error codes.

Any help would be appreciated.

Also, if anyone has a sample tune, we can compare. Doesn't matter what type of car, just a LHU with E39A ecu. (Can be on or off road)

Thank you
Jeff
back from cat test run flex off.hpl
LHUback fromCAT-e39a.hpt
Diag2.jpg

[TurboCobalt]

diagnostics first:
P018C - fuel pressure sensor B, seems like the low pressure fuel pump sensor, might be OK without it.
P0178 - These things are awesome on flex fuel, its a very cheap sensor to add. It seems like you run straight E85 all the time, so if you dont want to add the sensor at least turn off the diagnostic and the flex fuel logic.
P0330 - I would add the second knock sensor, even on e85 i think these can still knock.

Tune:
Torque Model >> General >> EQ Ratio. if you ignore everything else i say, at least please listen to this: Please change this table back to stock. What were you trying to accomplish by changing it the way you did.
Fuel >> General >> Split Pulse >> Split Factor: i thought the processor doesn't have enough throughput to keep up with split pulse above 3000 rpm? which can cause running resets? Was this table stock like this? i'd turn off split pulse above 3000 rpm.
Airflow >> Speed Density >> Ve Coefficients: did you try to change these? if the engine is stock, the factory tables should be good enough for now.
from your diagnostics i guess you removed the TIAP sensor (pre throttle Temp and pressure sensor), unfortunately that's what the stock computer uses to control boost (wastegate control). there's a drop down menu that might be able to work without the TIAP sensor, but i have no idea how to do that, Airflow >> General >> MAP >> sensor configuration. personally i'd just put the sensor back in, it's very useful. it gives you air temperature right before the air enters the engine, that is critical to know.

Log file:
You are missing too many variables in your configuration, i can't make any sense of it. You have a ton of useless variables recorded, but not the ones that are needed.

going back to basics :
1) what hardware are you using, what donor, stock turbo? you have an intercooler right?, what sensors do you have and which did you delete, if you have a MAF why did you turn off the diagnostics. where's the MAF, what size pipe, etc. do you have a wideband O2 sensor connected?
2) which tune did you start with? what model year, do you still have the stock tune, please post it i'd like to see the differences between stock and what you did.

This sounds like a great built, i always thought one of these engines in a miata would be a lot of fun.