2004 escalade P59 ECU. Gas pedal from 2004 silvarado with the 6 wire conductor initially, but just upgraded to a 9 wire conductor at the suggestion of PSI conversion, the people who built my swap harness. Using the Dakota digital HND-2 cruise control switch panel. I believe everything is hooked up correctly, Logging the cruise functions everything seems to be firing except cruise lockout stays "yes". I turn cruise on, it goes to ON, I hit resume and it goes to "yes", I press accel and says "yes". The entire time I'm logging, I don't press the brake (although before logging I've been off and on the brake a few times at least) the TCC brake says off. If I hit the brakes it says ON. Everything seems wired up correctly. I don't have LED tail lamps, but the computer is getting its 12v from a bosch relay and not the brake circuit. Maybe I need to put a resister in line?
In the tune there isn't much to mess with that I can think would effect cruise lockout. I've tried both "PRNDL equipped" set to PRNDL and None. Tune and Log is attached. Let me know if there is anything else I can try.
Just logged PRNDL status and its always at D4 even regardless of how the tune is set. Also logged Reverse inhibited and its reporting "Yes" all the time.
Got it fixed. I still don't understand why the computer needs to see a ground loop, but my problem was related to the same issues everyone has with LED taillights. On my PSI harness, the purple wire needs to send 12v to the computer when the brakes are off and then the yellow wire needs to see 12v when the brakes are depressed I think the yellow wire in my case is the same as the Light blue pin 6 on the TAC module people with a stock harness deal with.
I used the bosch relay so the computer would see 12v switch simultaneously when the brakes was on or off. Some GM brake switches already have that ability, but for a fox body I thought this was the easiest way.
You can get these load resisters at most autoparts stores or order from amazon/ebay. I think this one is 60ohm and 50watt rated. Since the load resister will pull power to ground, you don't want to use a regular electronic resister, it would probably over heat and open up if you are on the brakes for any amount of time. This resister is a heat sink and you can screw it or ziptie it do something metal in the car to pull more heat out. Anyway, hope this helps someone in the future.
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