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Thread: Idle help on a cammed 6.0

  1. #1
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    Idle help on a cammed 6.0

    Hi guys im new to the forum.. ive tried to do some research and i cant find what im looking for... i might have looked hard enough lol but any way ive got a 2007 gmc 2500 hd with a 6.0. its been bored .030 over, flattop pistons, bigger cam and 243 heads. ive done all the tuning it runs great and pulls like a dream. the thing i cant figure out is the Idle Underspeed/Overspeed table... i wanting to bring my cam out a little more. i have a tune file plus a picture of my cam card. any help would be much appreciated! Latest tune 5-3-2019 6.0 lq4.hpt https://ibb.co/2Y27dYT
    Last edited by oda521; 05-04-2019 at 12:15 AM.

  2. #2
    If you want to make the cam sounds bigger you'll want to take the underspeed table and subtract a few degrees or so from the entire table. Add a few degrees or so to the entire overspeed table.

  3. #3
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    did you look at my tune file?

  4. #4
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    i tried that and no luck i changed it up to 8 degrees it didnt seem like it did much at all.. it actually loped more the way i had it...

  5. #5
    Sorry i wasnt able to open up the file on my phone. Your cam isn't exactly big, I'm not sure how much lope you're expecting but small duration and wider lsa don't really equate to a really thumpy idle.

  6. #6
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    You had both positive and negative numbers in the overspeed spark table.
    It has to be all negative.
    You also have the stock TM tables in the trans tables. You can disable that with the 4L80E unless you're really doing some heavy towing..
    The VE table was very messy. I cleaned it up a bit.
    Try this one...Latest tune 5-3-2019 6.0 lq4modded.hpt

  7. #7
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    Thank you! should i check it with a wideband Kevin?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin87turbot View Post
    You had both positive and negative numbers in the overspeed spark table.
    It has to be all negative.
    You also have the stock TM tables in the trans tables. You can disable that with the 4L80E unless you're really doing some heavy towing..
    The VE table was very messy. I cleaned it up a bit.
    Try this one...Latest tune 5-3-2019 6.0 lq4modded.hpt
    should i check this with a wide band? i tuned this with my buddies Tuning school book from The Tuning School so i figured my VE was dead on but im new to this..

  9. #9
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    It's always best to check it with a wideband...especially at WOT. That's the most accurate method...

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottgt21 View Post
    Sorry i wasnt able to open up the file on my phone. Your cam isn't exactly big, I'm not sure how much lope you're expecting but small duration and wider lsa don't really equate to a really thumpy idle.
    i understand. i know my cam isnt big i didnt really want it to be because i was building it for more torque to pull stuff and its also a heavy truck Ext. Cab Long bed with 33 inch tires.. so far i like the cam as far as pulling

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin87turbot View Post
    It's always best to check it with a wideband...especially at WOT. That's the most accurate method...
    okay i used his wideband im going to order one any suggestions? i do not have HP Tuners pro i have the standard version so i cant hook a wideband in directly

  12. #12
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    Whatever name the AEM has, should still be called the UEGO I think. It's like 160 give or take on ebay/amazon, I think I've bought 3 or 4 of them over the years.

    You can wire it in via the trucks EGR circuit in the computer. Should be like pin 55 on the blue connector, then enable the EGR in the tune. Lots of write ups and youtube video's out there for getting it setup in the scanner.


    I'd go back over the whole thing with the wideband. You need to do both the MAF and the VE in open loop, separate from each other. Start with either MAF or VE first. Set up each side correctly by failing the MAF or setting it to "MAF" only, disable closed loop and all fuel trims. Use the wideband and the wideband error to apply the changes needed to the airflow model.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5FDP View Post
    Whatever name the AEM has, should still be called the UEGO I think. It's like 160 give or take on ebay/amazon, I think I've bought 3 or 4 of them over the years.

    You can wire it in via the trucks EGR circuit in the computer. Should be like pin 55 on the blue connector, then enable the EGR in the tune. Lots of write ups and youtube video's out there for getting it setup in the scanner.


    I'd go back over the whole thing with the wideband. You need to do both the MAF and the VE in open loop, separate from each other. Start with either MAF or VE first. Set up each side correctly by failing the MAF or setting it to "MAF" only, disable closed loop and all fuel trims. Use the wideband and the wideband error to apply the changes needed to the airflow model.

    Thank you i’ll check that out ! i appreciate the help guys!

  14. #14
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    AEM 30-4110 OR if if you can use CAN (prolly not) the AEM 30-3440.
    1997 30th SS. Torqhead 24x, TFS heads, 223/235 cam, 4l80e, S60 D1SC 14psi

  15. #15
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    The AEM 30-4110 is kinda a dead technology. And, was designed for the old LSU4.2 sensors. Better to get the current 30-0300, if the price is even close.

  16. #16
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    I believe the new 4110 use 4.9 now
    1997 30th SS. Torqhead 24x, TFS heads, 223/235 cam, 4l80e, S60 D1SC 14psi

  17. #17
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    I know it's an older design but it still does work pretty decent for what it is.

    New sensors aren't that bad either, only about $40 still.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  18. #18
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    Yes, the 30-4110 uses the 4.9 sensor, now. But, it is a bit of a kludge. i.e. It's the old 30-4100, tweaked to use a different sensor type. But, the change, really, requires different circuitry to, fully, implement the new sensor control. There is nothing "wrong" with it. But, the newer controller is substantially better in every measure.

    Unless, you just like the look of the older one, I can't recommend the 30-4110 for new installations.