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Thread: If anyone is interested here is a 2013 veloster turbo Auto factory tune

  1. #21
    What plugs and gap are you currently running? The ones in the pic look far too hot, whatever they are. You do not want white/silver deposits as seen; usually they are powdery, but it is quite bad when it gets crusty like that.

    Butt dyno is more accurate than most believe.

    Capture a scanner log and reproduce the behavior on the recall tune.

    ESC should always be disabled in dry conditions, as it is horribly intrusive. Better to improve your wheel/tire config, lower engine mount setup and alignment config to maximize traction (reduce wheel hop/spin) for your intended usage.
    Last edited by zugig; 06-30-2019 at 02:02 AM.

  2. #22
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    The plugs in the pic are Denso ZXU2OHCR8 iridium that were gaped to .028 when installed. I just through a cheap set of Autolite XP5703 gaped to .028 for now until I get around to ordering some hks plugs or oem ngks. Im concerned about the one plug which looks like the insulator broke partially off or melted.

  3. #23
    That Denso plug is their heat range (HR) 20, which is equivalent to NGK heat range 6, which is stock for the 2013 VT but is way too hot.

    XP5703 is equivalent to NGK HR7. I have used them with no issues, but others have reported breakage issues with them. XP5702 (HR8) & XP5701 (HR9) have thicker ground straps and are a bit more durable (have run both) but these are temporary/backup plugs at best.

    You want a quality HR8 plug now and a HR9 plug as your tune gets fairly aggressive:

    NGK R2556G-8 (recessed tip HR8) race plug is best.
    HKS M40XL (projected tip HR8) is 2nd best.

    NGK R2556G-9 & HKS M45XL for HR9 plugs (future reference).

    Do not skimp on plugs. Pay for the better ones. Also, if you are over 40K miles on the original ignition coils, those need to be replaced as well.
    Last edited by zugig; 06-30-2019 at 07:21 PM.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by zugig View Post
    That Denso plug is their heat range (HR) 20, which is equivalent to NGK heat range 6, which is stock for the 2013 VT but is way too hot.

    XP5703 is equivalent to NGK HR7. I have used them with no issues, but others have reported breakage issues with them. XP5702 (HR8) & XP5701 (HR9) have thicker ground straps and are a bit more durable (have run both) but these are temporary/backup plugs at best.

    You want a quality HR8 plug now and a HR9 plug as your tune gets fairly aggressive:

    NGK R2556G-8 (recessed tip HR8) race plug is best.
    HKS M40XL (projected tip HR8) is 2nd best.

    NGK R2556G-9 & HKS M45XL for HR9 plugs (future reference).

    Do not skimp on plugs. Pay for the better ones. Also, if you are over 40K miles on the original ignition coils, those need to be replaced as well.
    thanks! Ill be ordering new coils and better plugs soon hopefully. Then I will continue with logging and playing with the maps.

  5. #25
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    So the car did it again while merging onto 295 coming home. Got into it speeding up and around 4500-5000 rpm gave it full pedal. Got a surge and then a sudden lurch and she fell on her face and the revs hung around 3500 until I let off the throttle and then I could get back on it. Not sure what its doing yet but I stopped and started logging and couldnt for the life of me get it to do it doing a few redline pulls on 295. Finally got it to do it on the last pull on the attached log. Same situation, got on it and then once it was in the higher rpm range gave it full throttle. Was a good a for a second and then it was like hitting a wall. Car fell on its face for a second and then the revs hung and would not resume normal behavior until I let off completely. No codes, no obvious miss fires its almost like the car just says "hell no". After looking at the log the only thing I can think its im hitting the rev limiter even though I have never had that problem before......maybe I am missing something. Not the TPS data on that last pull. The sudden drop to 25% from 80% is the car all on its own and then the next drop is me letting off coasting and then back on again to confirm it went away.

    7-12-19.hpl
    Last edited by VelosterJames; 07-12-2019 at 07:03 PM.

  6. #26
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    Have not looked at the log but this is classic fuel line issue on these cars from what you describe.

  7. #27
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    I suspected that too at first but now that I have logged it while its doing it I have doubts. I do not see any notable drop in fuel rail pressure while the issue is happening

  8. #28
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    Looking at the log the lambda measurement read 2.0 for a bit while commanded was still where it should be. Leads me to believe it's intermitent o2 sensor or fuel system related issues.

    On a side note not good to go WOT with the coolant and iats that hot on these cars especially if not modded and tuned properly on good fuel.

  9. #29
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    Did it again the other night but sadly I wasnt logging at the time. Its the strangest thing when it happens and this time once it happened I decided to hold it for a few seconds. No matter how much more peddle I gave it it was like the car was at a lower rev limiter. No CEL no pending CEL and the car didn't sound like it was miss firing. Im officially baffled.

    Trust me I dislike goting WOT when its this hot but the alternative is risk hitting a dear at night lol

  10. #30
    Replace front oxygen sensor.

  11. #31
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    Welp the car shut off while driving through a parking lot today so back to the dealer it goes. Same issues as before with cranking but no start. It was like someone turned the ignition off.

    Anyways regarding the the last issue I have a question. I sat for hours zooming in on the log and saw where you pointed out the sudden jump to 2.00 lambda while command was correct. My slim understanding so far of lambda points to a sudden lean condition that triggers the problem I am having or am I thinking backwards? So like trdtoy that leads me to think its the fuel line collapsing. I have since ordered an upgraded line from BTR but now I guess I will have to wait to install it.\

    Zugig, can you explain why you suspect the front o2 sensor? Im debating replacing it as well since I was planning on going catless soon.

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by VelosterJames View Post
    Welp the car shut off while driving through a parking lot today so back to the dealer it goes. Same issues as before with cranking but no start. It was like someone turned the ignition off.

    Anyways regarding the the last issue I have a question. I sat for hours zooming in on the log and saw where you pointed out the sudden jump to 2.00 lambda while command was correct. My slim understanding so far of lambda points to a sudden lean condition that triggers the problem I am having or am I thinking backwards? So like trdtoy that leads me to think its the fuel line collapsing. I have since ordered an upgraded line from BTR but now I guess I will have to wait to install it.\

    Zugig, can you explain why you suspect the front o2 sensor? Im debating replacing it as well since I was planning on going catless soon.
    Sounds like a crank sensor issue if it cut off.

    The blip to 2.0 lambda is not the fuel line I would not think as the rail pressure was good the whole time. Generally the fuel line issue you will see a rail pressure drop but the lambda will never cut to 2.0 or anything close. This is why you may have an O2 sensor going out due to the sudden blip to 2.0 not reading anything for a split second.

  13. #33
    ^This. No drop in fuel pressure means the front O2 sensor likely is on the fritz. The cranking with no start and engine dying both indicate the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor needs replacement as well. Sensors are cheap.

    Get these issues all sorted so you can start adjusting the tune.
    Last edited by zugig; 07-28-2019 at 04:05 AM.

  14. #34
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    Just heard back from the dealer, they claim the fuel pump went. They also suspect bad gas but how bad gas could kill a pump in days without any other symptoms I just do not buy. Good thing I ordered the Aeromotive 11542 pump shortly after the fuel line. The pump should arrive tomorrow or Saturday and the line should ship next week hopefully.

    I sure hope HP tuners adds the 2017+ Tacomas to the list because I feel I may be trading this car in on one after all this lol

    Just went to push the car around to our garage so I can install the pump tomorrow and sure enough the car started....I cant tell if its my brain playing tricks but the pump sounds louder were before I barely heard it running if at all. Could be me just singling our the pump sound though. Do you guys hear your factory pumps running with the seat off and cover plate off?
    Last edited by VelosterJames; 08-01-2019 at 06:24 PM.

  15. #35
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    For the record the Aeromotive pump listed above is a no go. It will not fit unless heavy mods to the area the pump sits in is done and even so the necked down portion of the pump is too short. Not to mention having to cut and solder the wiring together to work. Bummer. Looks like im out the car until a dw65c can be had.20190802_193850.jpg

  16. #36
    Interesting, as I had an older Aeromotive that fit and worked fine. Sorry it didn't work for you. I do know the DW pumps definitely fit.

  17. #37
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    Live and learn I guess. To someone willing to modify the factory location a bit it could work and work well I suppose. Its also possible I just received the wrong pump. Dw65c is ordered and at least this gives me time to drain the tank and completely clean things out. I have a feeling that debri in the tank like some people have had trouble with might be to blame for the pump failing.

  18. #38
    The fuel sock (crude filter) should prevent the common black manufacturing crud from clogging the LPFP.

  19. #39
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    Installed the dw65c although i received part number 1008 instead of 1009 but it fit no problem. I used the sock that came with the pump but quickly learned that the factory sock also holds in a relief valve? The result was the valve on the bottom by the sock popped out first time the pump primed. For now I cut the clip portion off the oem sock filter that holds that part in until the new oem sock arrives this week. Car ran good for about 20 minutes and then died again. Popped a pending P0230 - Fuel pump primary circuit...discovered that the wires going into the connector were intermittently loosing connection and now im wondering if that was the problem all along. For now I cut off all 4 wires and installed small female connectors until I can find somewhere to get a new connector.

    After that the car runs fine except one hiccup when I steadily raised rpm to about 1800-2k held for a second and released. The car idled down really low and rough like it wanted to stall but recovered once i gave the throttle a blip. Pending codes P0453 - Evaporative emissions control system pressure sensor high imput ---- and P1555 - Chassis. Cleared all for now to see if they pop back up at some point.

  20. #40
    There is a TSB for the EVAP system that your car might be eligible for (consult a dealer). The chassis DTC is usually CAN-related from having a device plugged into the OBD-II port when the car is turned on.
    Last edited by zugig; 08-05-2019 at 05:24 PM.