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Thread: What?s new in the LNF Tuning?

  1. #21
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    Put the stock plugs back in. They are the best plugs on the LNF.

  2. #22
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    I?ve seen the updated parameters, and that?s expected since they updated software.

    Disabling the knock sensors isn?t a bad idea, it just requires the user to know what they are doing and know what to look for. Also only recommended for the right uses of the vehicle. I wouldn?t do it on a car that will just be a daily driver lol.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeM173 View Post
    I?ve seen the updated parameters, and that?s expected since they updated software.

    Disabling the knock sensors isn?t a bad idea, it just requires the user to know what they are doing and know what to look for. Also only recommended for the right uses of the vehicle. I wouldn?t do it on a car that will just be a daily driver lol.
    If you are disabling the knock sensors, you don't know what you are doing. The car is trying to tell you something and your telling it to shut up essentially.

  4. #24
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    Haha no offense, but I?m not saying to disable the knock sensors because they are telling you something. I?m telling you there are benefits to it in certain applications. And if you want to think I don?t know what I?m doing, I?ll agree to disagree. I asked about new stuff since I?ve been gone, but trust me, I?ve done a lot. Not trying to show boat, as you might be better than me. CSSOB, CodeNameBill and myself go way back and still talk to this day. I don?t say this to say you are wrong, just rather I have my feelings on it having a place, and I do have some knowledge to back that. Again, you might know more, so if you want to discuss your reasons, I?ll gladly listen. I might learn something new. I don?t mean that in a disrespectful way either. I always welcome different opinions.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeM173 View Post
    Haha no offense, but I?m not saying to disable the knock sensors because they are telling you something. I?m telling you there are benefits to it in certain applications. And if you want to think I don?t know what I?m doing, I?ll agree to disagree. I asked about new stuff since I?ve been gone, but trust me, I?ve done a lot. Not trying to show boat, as you might be better than me. CSSOB, CodeNameBill and myself go way back and still talk to this day. I don?t say this to say you are wrong, just rather I have my feelings on it having a place, and I do have some knowledge to back that. Again, you might know more, so if you want to discuss your reasons, I?ll gladly listen. I might learn something new. I don?t mean that in a disrespectful way either. I always welcome different opinions.
    Google Ryland Ballingham control systems, I have written papers modeling all different kinds of controllers so I have formal control systems education. Trust me I have been around for awhile I just don't come on here much. It looks like to me that the log posted in this thread is false or "burst knock", since timing isn't being pulled then as the IAT2 starts to climb the car is again pulling timing based on the IAT spark advance correction table, but what do I know.
    Last edited by RYRO14; 07-22-2019 at 08:22 PM.

  6. #26
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    You are taking offense to something for no reason. Again, you might be better, and I?m ok with that. I don?t tune anyone, just my own vehicle now. I simply stated that if you wanted to explain your reasonings I would gladly listen. If you don?t, we can agree to disagree with no hard feelings. I also gave a quick response to that picture because I didn?t look it over fully, and I thought I clarified that I didn?t look at it in depth. I just gave some info to take a look at to make sure everything was safe. If it is, then awesome. I haven?t seen the tune or a log, so I don?t know exacts. If you have more help for him, then awesome. Any help anyone can get is great. That?s what this forum is for, and it?s great.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeM173 View Post
    You are taking offense to something for no reason. Again, you might be better, and I?m ok with that. I don?t tune anyone, just my own vehicle now. I simply stated that if you wanted to explain your reasonings I would gladly listen. If you don?t, we can agree to disagree with no hard feelings. I also gave a quick response to that picture because I didn?t look it over fully, and I thought I clarified that I didn?t look at it in depth. I just gave some info to take a look at to make sure everything was safe. If it is, then awesome. I haven?t seen the tune or a log, so I don?t know exacts. If you have more help for him, then awesome. Any help anyone can get is great. That?s what this forum is for, and it?s great.
    No worries but disabling knock sensors has taken out some ATS-Vs/ and LTG ATS motors.

  8. #28
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    If you want to learn how a PID controller works fundamentally, read my paper on it. If you are interested in tuning you will like it.... I think.

  9. #29
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    I?ll take a look at your stuff when I get a chance. I actually wrote PID Tuning on here. I think I have since deleted it from back in the day, but I did do some writings on it for the LNF. I?ll still read your work though, and compare it to my own and see if I might learn some stuff.

  10. #30
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    RYRO14,
    my lnf was notorious for false knock, verified via link ecu knock block module fed back to the laptop. The computer does some funky things that can be registered as knock detection. knowing how all the tables work together and properly correcting them does just about eliminate this false kr which is what i am sure you are hinting here, but when your a shop and don't have weeks to figure that shit out then i disabled them and toss my link knock module on there to verify what i was commanding wasn't causing a legitimate problem. Between the dyno graph and the knock module you should be able to analyse the pull for an ignition related event. After the more costly dyno tuning session i can go back and find out which tables caused me the largest issue with kr and modify them to reduce the effect to match the knock block results. Since there is no base knock sensor calibration settings for the LNF this ends up being a technique some shops have to rely on to force a commanded result for time saving tactics. saying someone doesnt know what they are doing because they disabled some tables in a non-common fashion does not mean they dont understand what is going on. there are thousands of ways to tune these ecu's, remember to analyse the reason for the method and not the method itself.

    the whole disable knock and take out some ats-v's thing....did any of those people actively monitor detonation with an outside detonation detection system such as haltech #HT-070104 or link knock block #KNB 105-1000? I like my knock block because i can monitor the live sensor signal on pc and the audio source together instead of just the audio source.
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

  11. #31
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    My ears are open? I take it I shouldn't leave this thing spiking to 28.8 psi of boost & then falling off to 22.5-22 psi?

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  12. #32
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    if the turbo is bone stock then it wont appreciate more than ~24 psi for more than a couple of months. some people do get away with it but its not going to have customer longevity if that's important to you. the shaft overspeed will eventually kill it. the k04+ unit has a larger compressor wheel and died super fast for me at 26 psi. once the bearings started to deteriorate the heavier wheel expedited the process according to my turbo refurbisher. it was kind of disappointing but i recognize its an expendable unit and was beating the absolute hell out of that particular unit.

    i did successfully run a 24 psi max boost for a year and a half. i tuned it to hold 24 psi for as long as the turbo flow would let me and then let it settle to 21-22 psi at high rpm where it just couldnt physically keep up. I know a lot of other tuners that tune for 20-21 psi and just let it rock out with a flat boost curve through the whole rpm range. doesnt peak torque as hard around 3200 rpm and save clutches/gearboxes. keeps intake heat build down a tad which is nice for cars that get beat for extended time periods such as auto-x or full circuit cars.
    to go with that, i tuned my neighbors car for use at some hot desert tracks like seca and sedona. it was set at 18 psi because we wanted the endurance and it made iat a little bit easier to manage.

    honestly just need to look at all the factors that come into play when you strain the turbo unit out and decide what you are willing to deal with and accept.
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

  13. #33
    Hey Guys, im new to the tuning and new to the Lnf..was a former LS guy. My cars currently just got the hahn intake, zzp catless DP, ZZP Intercooler. I have installed the GMS1 Sensors and go today for tuning adjustments for those. My car obviously doesnt have the GM upgraded tune but currently sits on 21lbs of boost from previous owner tuning very little on it. Can someone help me out on making the proper adjustments to my car to get the most out of it without hurting it? i would like to ideally be around 24psi on the stock K04. I have seen the videos from CSSOB, should i follow those changes and go from there?

  14. #34
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    Patrick start a new thread. When you make your new thread use the "Go Advanced" thread feature. From here you can upload your most current tune files. This leaves all of your tuning progress in one convenient spot on the forum and the file allows all of us to see what you are starting with.

    the way i walk through tuning the lnf starts with a stage 1 file and transferring its settings over into your current files. It offers a great starting point since its designed for a power increase by GM Engineers. From there i try to offer setting suggestions that set the ecu up to run in a defaulted minimal interference mode. Just like the LS stuff, you dont want the computer to be making a pile of active adjustments on you. You really want it to run what you command and then from there you can tune similar to any other type of platform.

    Lets see what you are starting with when you make your new thread and then see what kind of recommendations we can offer you.
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

  15. #35
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    Okay not a fan of turning off the knock sensors but getting tons of false knock with .86 lambda and even 7.0 deg of timing at WOT

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  16. #36
    Senior Tuner BackyardTurbo_FTW's Avatar
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    I would check for air leaks and injector seal leaks. These cars are insanely sensitive to either situation and will register knock for either

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by BackyardTurbo_FTW View Post
    I would check for air leaks and injector seal leaks. These cars are insanely sensitive to either situation and will register knock for either
    Car has 17,xxx miles and is 100% mint so doubt an air leak, but injector seals with the age & heat I wouldn't discount. Anyway to test?

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  18. #38
    Senior Tuner BackyardTurbo_FTW's Avatar
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    I would just replace them and then smoke test the whole thing. They aren't very expensive but the tool to properly install the 1 time use seals could be depending on where you shop.

  19. #39
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    There are other ways to put the seals on, but then again I use some back yard mechanic techniques lol. Haven?t had an issue and have done plenty of them.

  20. #40
    Senior Tuner BackyardTurbo_FTW's Avatar
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    pun intended? lol

    Im sure you could get them on without the tool, I was fortunate to have bought one for $25 on Ebay many many moons ago. It def makes life easy