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Tuner in Training
Upgrade from E38 ECU??
I posted about 4 days ago concerning a starting issue that I've been trying to solve for the past 3 months....But am getting no where with solving it.
Just wondering if anyone would have a suggestion for upgrading my "old" E38 to a newer, better ECU for my 2007 Corvette, LS2, 6L80E, Whipple 2.9?
As I posted earlier........ My car simply will go into limp mode and run off of 4 cyl if the coolant temp is above 210 degrees prior to starting it. BUT..... It will start and idle normally if I simply unplug the coolant temp sensor on the head regardless of how high the coolant temp is. It varies from time to time on setting codes..... but occasionally get P2176, and P0151...... sometimes no codes at all..... BTW, it has a NW102 for boost applications.......
I'm certainly open to ANY suggestions......
The engine, trans, everything was built within the past 7 months......and pretty much EVERYTHING is new
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Advanced Tuner
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Tuner in Training
Luke
I'm currently at work and won't be home for another 6 hours, and our work computers don't have HP tuner..... Since I'm fairly "new" to this forum and how to post things, I will post my tune file when I get home tonight.
I appreciate that you might be able to spot something that isn't correct!!
Thanks in advance!
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Tuner in Training
Well..... Luke..... I'm going to and attach my current tune file..... Let me know what you think? (hopefully I did it right, and successfully.....)
Century transmission tune after Mike test drove car on 7-19-19 and 4th gear TCC lockup.hpt
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Tuner in Training
I think I attached the file......... If you can check it??
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Advanced Tuner
this car has no MAF correct? it does have an inlet air temp sensor but?
Last edited by lukearmstrong1990; 07-24-2019 at 07:06 PM.
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Tuner in Training
yes.... It has a LS blade style MAF....
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Tuner in Training
Or "card" style for LS7 I believe
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Tuner in Training
The IAT is a sensor that is provided by Whipple and the 2 brown wires originally running to the stock TB were unpinned and lengthened and routed back to the back side of the supercharger and is in the manifold as the air comes out of the rotors through the intercooler brick...
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Advanced Tuner
you've applied a custom 2BAR SD OS but you're still using a MAF?
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Advanced Tuner
I think your issues are arising from having the custom SD OS and still using a MAF.
if I were in your shoes I would either ditch the MAF and tune full SD or flash the stock OS back in and either do MAF or blended tune.
Last edited by lukearmstrong1990; 07-24-2019 at 07:24 PM.
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Tuner in Training
I have a Tuner that tuned my car..... I just supplied the list of components....and what was suggested that I upgrade to.... I think it has a 3 Bar map sensor in it for the LSA/LS9???
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Tuner in Training
As you can tell..... I'm NOT a tuner...... The tuner I use is Local to me (3 hour drive) and came VERY HIGHLY recommended......
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Advanced Tuner
it does have a 3 bar MAP and its correctly scaled for an LSA OEM sensor.
if you want MAF only or blended use the factory OS... far better to work with.
if you want SD then fail the MAF correctly so it doesn't go looking for it everytime you cycle the key.
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Tuner in Training
SO..... just so I understand correctly, You think that my LIMP starting because of coolant temps is related to the ECU looking at the MAF and the calculations or table is incorrect?
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Advanced Tuner
I think its plausible that your throttle issue causing your limp mode may be caused by the car looking for the MAF. I have had a couple of throttle issues with E38 2BAr SD OS without the MAF failed correctly.
The custom OS is very very different to the factory one.
1019rwhp_17psi 807rwhp_12psiP2068.hpt
look at that as a reference for what I would be trying if I were you.
Last edited by lukearmstrong1990; 07-24-2019 at 07:39 PM.
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Tuner in Training
I appreciate your input and knowledge! I know VERY little about tuning.....and I mean VERY little.... I am a "mechanic" and can build the stuff.....but the FINE "tuning" is not my thing...
The Current tuner I use and went to is VERY good but has been of no help in correcting my problem. THus, I'm trying different avenues to try and solve it. He is 3 hours away (one way) and does tuning by appointments because of his other Advertising Business...
THis problem may have existed from the time he tuned it, the weather was much cooler. Now it TX the daily temps are 90's and the car heats up much more that when the temps are cooler..... That's why I'm chasing this problem around.
Many have said it's the NW102....my thoughts are that if the TB was bad, it would still run crappy and not idle even though I unplugged the coolant temp sensor. ALL.....and I mean ALL of my issues seem to be centered around the temp of the coolant.
I can also do an "erase" with my scanner when it starts acting up on me.....and will run normally.......Until I shut it off again and the temps are Higher than 210.
IF.... I let the car cool before attempting to start it, it will start and run normally......
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Advanced Tuner
you can trial failing the MAF.
keep a safe copy of your current file, if it doesn't work flash the current one back in.
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Tuner in Training
I will look at your example when I get off and go home....
When you say "fail" the MAF..... and it seems as if there is a "CORRECT" way to do it?? Like I said... I'm not a "tuner" but trying to learn and understand....
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Advanced Tuner
set MAF fail high HZ to 0
low HZ to 10
disable the P0101, P0106 and P0121 tests
uncheck the MIL and SES for P0102
max out dynamic airflow disable and reenable RPM
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