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Thread: LSx FD RX7 Basic Tuning Help

  1. #1
    Tuner in Training
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    LSx FD RX7 Basic Tuning Help

    So I recently got my car running. Been taking a shot at tuning it myself.

    Stock 5.3
    LS1 Intake, Injectors, Accessories.
    Corvette FPR with a walbro 255 in-tank
    AEM Wideband wire into HPTuners.
    NO MAF NO O2s
    SD Tuned.
    T56.

    Ive got the correct injector data (I believe). Ive tuned the VE table and I can get the car to cruise reasonably well in respect to the AFRs
    Ive done nothing to the spark tables except copy high octane to low octane as Ive seen in one of the many instructables Ive read on here.


    After some recent driving Ive noticed there is a misfire at idle. I do not feel it while driving.


    Couple of questions...

    1) Ive been using 87octane on my few test drives. Could this be my culprit?

    2) In an effort to just make sure everything worked as a whole, I had forgone fixing the broken exhaust manifold studs in the heads.
    Passenger side has the first and last stud broken.

    3) My timing is always high, mid 30s and often in the 40s. Is this normal? Or the next step in the tuning process.

    Im posting the last tune and log files if anyone could look over them for some dumb stuff I may have missed.

    Ive used a lot of the threads and links on here to figure out a bunch of things so far just to get it able to idle and cruise. The forums have been great, figured I was at a point where I wasn't too embarrassed to post up my crappy "tunes" haha.

    Thanks for any help!


    CRUISE3.hpl
    QUICKLEANOUT.hpt

  2. #2
    Tuner in Training
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    oh... also, the car never records misfires in the DTCs... is that normal on a swap car?

    and one last question. I removed the oil pressure sensor from the back of the block behind the intake.
    I put in the sender for an electric gauge. My gauge reads about 15psi at all times. This cant be right can it?
    Ive gotten up to about 3800RPM and it never changes. It will sometimes move between 15psi to 25psi at idle.

  3. #3
    Senior Tuner kingtal0n's Avatar
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    Which ECU?

    The misfire at idle is likely too much idle timing. My 5.3 did the same thing until I went into the tables "in neutral timing" and "in drive timing" or something like that,

    And changed it from the 18* the factory uses,

    to a nice smoothed looking 12-13* in the 550rpm ranges.

    Idles like butter now. hopefully thats your issue also.

    ---
    Oil pressure should be like 40psi most of the time, 35psi hot idle is good. Your gauge must be wrong.
    I bought one also ($15 ebay gauge) and it reads "0" all the time. lol....

    Dont trust cheap electric gauges!

    ----

    The timing curve is personal to the engine and based on load.
    The factory curve is too aggressive already. I am surprised you aren't seeing knock. Make sure the knock sensors are working somehow...
    I run about 19* total under load (100KPA), no boost, with 87 octane. I've had around 4psi of boost on 87 no issues but with 12*~ of timing.

    I think 93 octane you can get away with 24-26* of timing using the low compression 5.3L engines
    rarely will an LS engine prefer more than 27* of timing, this is a sign of inefficiency if it does.

    from 100KPA to 200KPA I basically slope down from 20~ to about 11*.
    It can be as low as 0* or even -2* of timing around 2000-2500rpm with boost. Low rpm + heavy load = very very little timing advance. Use too much timing at low rpm with boost and it will bend a rod.

    Not sure if you are turbo but that is the whole point of the 5.3L engine usually...
    ----
    For cruising, Below 50KPA, yes it is very common and essential to have 35-40* of timing. Especially for cruising on the highway.
    It takes data logs, time and energy to find optimal economy, it could be as much as 45* of timing. OR even 50*!
    I try to keep the timing up while driving for economy, so that means 45 to 35KPA ranges for cruising around, 33-40* is normal...

    ---
    leaves the O2 and MAF off the engine. Thats how I also keep mine, you will have the most control this way.
    It forces you to fine tune the engine better. Rather than rely on fuel trims.
    ---
    get the wideband data imported into HPtuners. Use the EGR or AC or something (1 wire) and analog output from the Wideband to complete the circuit. there are youtubes how to do that.
    ----
    Swap the camshaft if you didn't do it already. I think the factory 5.3L cam is the smallest cam ever put into any LS engine.
    The factory springs also leave something to be desired.
    I recommend 216/220 @ .050 range, around .550Lift (look up "sloppy stage 1" TFS camshaft) because it uses the slowest, gentlest ramps of any LS camshaft I've ever seen which will prolong the valvetrain lifespan (good for daily drivers, 87 octane beaters)

    ----

    couple more timing tips
    1. never use the same exact value in adjacent cells. Try to make the nearby cells different, even if just by .1*
    2. don't rely on knock sensors to tell you to pull timing
    3. don't rely on knock sensors at all
    4. Human ears cannot detect knock, by the time you hear the knock, it's too late. Knock sensors are tuned to frequency of knock that human ears cannot hear, it happens before you hear it. So try to get them working. even though they are unreliable sometimes.

    5. All timing values, just like in the VE table fuel values, should be very SMOOTH. Interpolate them if necessary.
    Any sudden changes from one cell to the next means the engine will also suddenly change when it moves through that cell (the engine won't respond "smoothly")
    ----

    good luck and I am not at home or I would open your map or provide better pictures of what I am saying.
    Edit: I do have this i can share, its not much but its something to look at for example
    First, this is how you should be logging wideband air fuel ratios using HPtuners:

    Next here is an example of "Afr advance" a table which modifies the timing based on commanded a/f ratio:


    So the two things I want to point out is that the fuel target for N/A engines (100kpa) is around 12.5:1 air fuel ratio,
    And the smooth timing transistions that should be apparent when looking at the second picture, and notice how peak torque regions (4800-5500rpm usually) have the least amount of timing (highest cylinder pressure = highest VE = highest Torque = lowest WOT timing)

    Also in sig is my build thread, it may answer some other question you have...
    Last edited by kingtal0n; 08-04-2019 at 10:14 PM.

  4. #4
    Tuner in Training
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    Dec 2014
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    36
    Quote Originally Posted by kingtal0n View Post
    Which ECU?

    The misfire at idle is likely too much idle timing. My 5.3 did the same thing until I went into the tables "in neutral timing" and "in drive timing" or something like that,

    And changed it from the 18* the factory uses,

    to a nice smoothed looking 12-13* in the 550rpm ranges.

    Idles like butter now. hopefully thats your issue also.

    ---
    Oil pressure should be like 40psi most of the time, 35psi hot idle is good. Your gauge must be wrong.
    I bought one also ($15 ebay gauge) and it reads "0" all the time. lol....

    Dont trust cheap electric gauges!

    ----

    The timing curve is personal to the engine and based on load.
    The factory curve is too aggressive already. I am surprised you aren't seeing knock. Make sure the knock sensors are working somehow...
    I run about 19* total under load (100KPA), no boost, with 87 octane. I've had around 4psi of boost on 87 no issues but with 12*~ of timing.

    I think 93 octane you can get away with 24-26* of timing using the low compression 5.3L engines
    rarely will an LS engine prefer more than 27* of timing, this is a sign of inefficiency if it does.

    from 100KPA to 200KPA I basically slope down from 20~ to about 11*.
    It can be as low as 0* or even -2* of timing around 2000-2500rpm with boost. Low rpm + heavy load = very very little timing advance. Use too much timing at low rpm with boost and it will bend a rod.

    Not sure if you are turbo but that is the whole point of the 5.3L engine usually...
    ----
    For cruising, Below 50KPA, yes it is very common and essential to have 35-40* of timing. Especially for cruising on the highway.
    It takes data logs, time and energy to find optimal economy, it could be as much as 45* of timing. OR even 50*!
    I try to keep the timing up while driving for economy, so that means 45 to 35KPA ranges for cruising around, 33-40* is normal...

    ---
    leaves the O2 and MAF off the engine. Thats how I also keep mine, you will have the most control this way.
    It forces you to fine tune the engine better. Rather than rely on fuel trims.
    ---
    get the wideband data imported into HPtuners. Use the EGR or AC or something (1 wire) and analog output from the Wideband to complete the circuit. there are youtubes how to do that.
    ----
    Swap the camshaft if you didn't do it already. I think the factory 5.3L cam is the smallest cam ever put into any LS engine.
    The factory springs also leave something to be desired.
    I recommend 216/220 @ .050 range, around .550Lift (look up "sloppy stage 1" TFS camshaft) because it uses the slowest, gentlest ramps of any LS camshaft I've ever seen which will prolong the valvetrain lifespan (good for daily drivers, 87 octane beaters)

    ----

    couple more timing tips
    1. never use the same exact value in adjacent cells. Try to make the nearby cells different, even if just by .1*
    2. don't rely on knock sensors to tell you to pull timing
    3. don't rely on knock sensors at all
    4. Human ears cannot detect knock, by the time you hear the knock, it's too late. Knock sensors are tuned to frequency of knock that human ears cannot hear, it happens before you hear it. So try to get them working. even though they are unreliable sometimes.

    5. All timing values, just like in the VE table fuel values, should be very SMOOTH. Interpolate them if necessary.
    Any sudden changes from one cell to the next means the engine will also suddenly change when it moves through that cell (the engine won't respond "smoothly")
    ----

    good luck and I am not at home or I would open your map or provide better pictures of what I am saying.
    Edit: I do have this i can share, its not much but its something to look at for example
    First, this is how you should be logging wideband air fuel ratios using HPtuners:

    Next here is an example of "Afr advance" a table which modifies the timing based on commanded a/f ratio:


    So the two things I want to point out is that the fuel target for N/A engines (100kpa) is around 12.5:1 air fuel ratio,
    And the smooth timing transistions that should be apparent when looking at the second picture, and notice how peak torque regions (4800-5500rpm usually) have the least amount of timing (highest cylinder pressure = highest VE = highest Torque = lowest WOT timing)

    Also in sig is my build thread, it may answer some other question you have...
    Could you help me set up my scanner that way?

  5. #5
    Tuner in Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
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    21
    As opposed to making new posts, just figured I would update here.

    A few new issues.

    1st...
    My MAP tables are bad, from user error.
    I have a 2 bar map sensor installed. 2bar OS installed.
    My car is currently not turbocharged, was, but now isnt... long story
    But what is it that I have done wrong to where is logs up to 195kpa when Im obviously not going above 105kpa?




    2nd...
    I look at other logs, and some of the tuner school videos and their spark advance numbers are WAY different than mine.
    Mine commonly is reading 40 and above. That cant be right.
    It also has wild swings. The only time it seems to steady out is under hard accel.



    Lastly...

    The car breaks up heavily when flooring it and going above 4k rpms or so. It doesnt go CRAZY rich, but it doesnt accel much at those RPMS. I assume this is related to something in the spark tables.


    Attached is my latest log and "tune"
    Thanks for all the help guys!

    104.WOT.LEANOUT..hpt104.SCAN.hpl

  6. #6
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    Get a new stock MAP sensor if you aren't running boost anymore. Then just input the stock MAP data. That must be fixed because this a speed density tune, you can't have the MAP doing weird things when it's using that as it's only way to determine fueling.

    Cylinder volume says it's a 4.8 and not a 5.3. Fueling calculation are going to be off because of that. It will probably be easier to copy/paste a stock VE table from a 2001-2002 5.3 into the 15-105 area of the VE curve to give you a better starting point. Also make sure your fuel pressure is staying around 58psi. If it's lower or way higher that will throw fueling for a loop when the flow rate for the injectors is set to 58psi.

    COT (cat over temp) needs to be disabled still.

    Change the dynamic airflow high rpm disable to 8,000rpm instead of 4,000rpm.


    The timing moving around is partly to blame on the MAP and the wrong readings. It's just fine to have cruise timing in the 30-40's, that is where you want it. Then have it settle down to 15-25 under heavy load depending on your timing curve is setup.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  7. #7
    Advanced Tuner
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    that log and tune shows stock injector data and the VE table numbers show that your scaling is off. such low numbers at WOT suggests your injector or MAP data is wrong. your log shows the injector PW being cut or reduced as the cause of your problem. this could be the incorrect scaling.

    do as the above post recommends then look at this issue

  8. #8
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    5FDP; Would it be okay to just run the 1bar map, in the 2bar OS? I assume it would just never go above 105 then right?

    Thanks for the help guys, I swear Im better at math than what cylinder volume says haha.

    I made all the changes in the tune, the map i will have to order. Ill post back up with results

    Thanks again for all the help!

  9. #9
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    Right, it doesn't matter what MAP you run so long as the data is correct. You could run a 3 bar MAP in a stock tune if the data was correct for it. Because this is a NA car, it won't be using the VE above 100kpa anyway.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  10. #10
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    alright, so I made all the above mentioned changes.

    did a copy paste of the AFR Error to VE table and then this is the LOG that I have.

    107.hpl 107.hpt


    It definitely felt better, but it still broke up slightly. However, that was at like 5700rpm, which Ive not gone to before today since it felt so much better.

    The only other thing I notice now is that the car has a pretty intermittent misfire when idling.
    This is probably due to plugs or the engine itself, not so much the tune.

    Anyone see anything else I may have missed? Or a better way to have any of this logged?


    Thanks again for all the help, this is literally the only forum I log onto anymore.
    Seems like one of those actually helpful/teamwork centered forums!