P0101 issue.

[projectghost]

Looking for a little assistance. I've been working on the tune for my LS swapped truck.
Specs are:
5.3 LM7
243 Heads (milled .005)
Flat top pistons with LS2 rods
TSP 224r cam 224/224 600/600 112LSA
Long tubes
Truck intake
Stock injectors
Stock TB
4L80e with Circle D 3200 Stall

I've done the base idle airflow config multiple times to get that dialed in. Truck starts and runs okay but a few issues. Bogs down really bad at low RPMs when it's cold but that goes away after its warmed up. I feel it has potential for some better power in the midrange/upper end but not there.
The main issue I'm having is it's throwing P0101 code. It didn't throw the code when it was cooler outside earlier in the year. Seems to be popping up more with it being 100* outside here in TX. If I just drive it at night or early morning when it's cool outside, the code doesn't come up. I've copied the Max MAF Delta Airflow from a LS1 F-Body since the original tune from the 05 Silverado I had was like 1/2 of the LS1 tune. Code still comes up. Does the MAF Frequency need to be modified due to the change in vacuum/airflow with the 224r cam? Where do I start with this?

Tune attached

[5FDP]

That specific code is a circuit range/performance issue, I'd be looking into the wiring for a possible issue and or just running all new wires for the MAF harness. If the code still came up then the MAF itself could be the issue.

The MAF and VE must be re-calibrated if you changed the camshaft and did you far more than just a camshaft upgrade. Looks like you just added 15% to the VE for whatever reason instead of using a wideband to tune it correctly.

You'll probably want to cut your overspeed idle spark correction table way down too, right now it can swing timing up to -35 degrees and you don't want that. I tend to make the under/over speed tables around 6-8 degrees +/- to keep it smoother.


Intake and coolant temps do get up there too. With ambient temps that high it kinda sucks but if the intake pipe was routed to fresh air it should stay closer to ambient and not rise to 150+ degrees so easy.

Also do not be surprised if you run out of injector. Those stock injectors will likely be out of room with your setup once you reach wide open throttle tuning. You'll need to command a leaner fuel mixture than what is in there now, which looks factory. Aim for low 12's AFR on the wideband. Start logging your injector pulse width avg to check that, if you reach 90% duty cycle it's time for larger injectors.

Other things like some of your PE settings should be changed and you can disabled abuse mode as well. Once fueling is done you can work with timing to get you more power.

[projectghost]

Thanks for your advice, I'm still pretty new at the whole tuning thing. The first thing I checked was the wiring and it is all good. I did end up modifying the under/over speed tables yesterday right after I posted this and it helped out quite a bit, so far no code and seems to run a bit better. I have not tuned with a wideband which I know is the correct way to tune fuel, I just don't have that setup at the moment. The IAT creeps up quite a bit due to where the intake pipe is. It has a heat shield but doesn't really keep any heat out. I'm working on building an airbox that will keep the temps down better.

A wideband is on my list and I will look into the injectors as well. Just trying to learn what I'm doing here with tuning. All I've done in the past was build the stuff.