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Thread: 2014 R-Spec tuning

  1. #1
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    2014 R-Spec tuning

    Hello everyone!
    New to HPTuners and the Hyundai platform, came over from Audi and VW so the Bosch is something I had time with but I am looking to add a smidge of boost to my top end among some other small things, any chance one of you experienced tuners could take a peak? I lurked through all the threads trying to gather what I could as far as layouts, PIDs to log and stuff that I did after my stock logging so my future logging will be more helpful. I included a stock log, stock tune and my updated tune for reference as well as a MOD list. Any help is appreciated!

    MODS:
    K/N Intake
    Intake res delete
    Pierce Motorsports Catless DP with 1 small muffler
    Catch can
    NGK 1422 Plugs
    Enos 5w-40 FS
    Denso Oil Filter
    Clutch switch disabled (is on a switch but I can't stand the rev hang)
    Coolant bypass for TB

    What I am tuning for:
    20/21PSI - DONE (V5)
    Remove speed limiter - DONE (V3)
    Quiet down cold start idle if possible - WIP
    Clean up AFR - PE Set
    7k Redline - DONE (V3)

    The attachments in this post will have the most updated tune for convenience.

    Thanks!
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by Illmat1c; 23 Hours Ago at 12:30 PM. Reason: MOD List update

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Illmat1c View Post
    Hello everyone!
    New to HPTuners and the Hyundai platform, came over from Audi and VW so the Bosch is something I had time with but I am looking to add a smidge of boost to my top end among some other small things, any chance one of you experienced tuners could take a peak? I lurked through all the threads trying to gather what I could as far as layouts, PIDs to log and stuff that I did after my stock logging so my future logging will be more helpful. I included a stock log, stock tune and my updated tune for reference as well as a MOD list. Any help is appreciated!

    MODS:
    K/N Intake
    Intake res delete
    Catless DP with 1 small muffler
    Catch can
    Stock plugs (I have a set of ngk1422's ready to go in)
    Clutch switch disabled (is on a switch but I can't stand the rev hang)

    What I am tuning for:
    20/21PSI
    Remove speed limiter
    Quiet down idle if possible
    Clean up AFR
    Can we delete the rear 02 so I can run a wideband there?

    Thanks!
    It looks like you only changed RPM limits and made a slight change to a few idle maps, so impossible to give any advice in its current state. If your idle isn't smooth you most likely have a mechanical cause, but raising the base idle to 850 is a good start.

    The Veloster Turbo comes equipped with a factory wideband that can be monitored through OBD.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xerxes1 View Post
    It looks like you only changed RPM limits and made a slight change to a few idle maps, so impossible to give any advice in its current state. If your idle isn't smooth you most likely have a mechanical cause, but raising the base idle to 850 is a good start.

    The Veloster Turbo comes equipped with a factory wideband that can be monitored through OBD.
    The idle on cold start is what I actually want to adjust. With no cats I don't need the high idle as much to warm them up quicker for emissions. I also changed some of the Torque mapping to increase the boost as per some of the threads in the forum. That was my biggest question. From what I saw those tables affect the end power goal the most.

    Any chance you have the full PID list so I can log that sensor? I am rebuilding my VCM Scanner layout so that would be a huge help.

    Thanks!
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by Illmat1c; 4 Days Ago at 08:08 PM.

  4. #4
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    https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...o-factory-tune

    Scroll down and look for the XML config files I posted.

  5. #5
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    Much appreciated! These are the ones I ended up using. Working on the cold start idle has been successful, no more loud crackling from the high idle. Been adjust the torque mapping but can?t seem to get any affect.

    Is it strange the TPS % only reaches 84%? It shows commanding 100% but the reading is only 84%.

    Thanks

  6. #6
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    TPS at 84% is the 100% value point aka WOT.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by trdtoy View Post
    TPS at 84% is the 100% value point aka WOT.
    Thank you! Went back through some of the older posts and built out a new tune to load in for tomorrow.
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  8. #8
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    Took a look at your latest tune compared to the stock tune and you're kind of all over the place. Before you start adding power without understanding how torque management works, focus on fueling first and the cold start behavior second. Since you have done enough cold start stuff to make you happy, we can work on the details of that after your fueling is sorted.

    For fueling, in the Power Enrich tab:
    Driver Demand (DD) and Driver Demand Fail (DDF) maps are typically made to be equivalent. Look at the default Enable Throttle threshold, which is 85. This means moderate to hard throttle (but not WOT) does not enrichen but stays at stoich lambda (1.00), which is not good and can lead to misfires or worse. You want enrichment to occur much sooner when you press the accelerator.

    Set the Enable Throttle to 40 and then change the DD & DDF row headers to 40 on top and use arbitrary values for the three row headers beneath, such as 60, 80 and 90. You don't want the top row set to stoich (1.00), you want to add fuel as quickly as possible once you pass that threshold since the turbo spools rather quickly and load will increase relative to boost pressure. By 3200 RPM you'll want to be at 0.82 and taper down to .80 at the very top. Capture a log and see how quickly fuel is added on varying throttle. Play around with the activation threshold value to see what you prefer, then readjust the DD/DDF row headers after you settle on a value.

    About your plugs. NGK 1422s are not that good. NGK R2556G-8 race plugs are what you want. HKS M45XL would be next best. Gap to 0.028" to start out.

    K&N intake is mediocre, especially with the lid on. A 3.5" open intake is much better.

    Which exact downpipe do you have?

    If you're going to use catch cans, you should have one on each valve cover outlet (breather and PCV).

    Where are you located (generally) and what specific fuel are you running? Elevation and climate (humidity) play a big role, as do both octane and ethanol percentage.
    Last edited by zugig; 5 Days Ago at 07:12 AM.

  9. #9
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    Thanks Zugig! I know the 1422's and K/N are not the best, I am not looking for huge power just that OEM+ feel so hoping I can squeak by using them but I will go about ordering up some new stuff if needed. The downpipe is a Pierce Motorsports and the catch cans are in. Typically in Southern New Hampshire running 93.

    I appreciate the info and will go out logging and adjusting with all that in mind. Made those changes first.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by Illmat1c; 4 Days Ago at 07:00 PM.

  10. #10
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    No problem. Go ahead and put those 1422s in for now but be very careful about watching KR readings. Any KR in more than 1 cylinder for longer than a second or two is a problem. Saw your lambda changes in #3. Looks fine for now.

    Since you have no cats, you'll want to just set idle RPM to whatever your target is globally across the entire map. I prefer a higher idle of 1000 RPM for easier launching from a stop without having to gas it as much.

    Is the downpipe a full elbowed downpipe or just the lower catted section? I assume your fuel is E10 (10% ethanol) 93. It's a good idea to get a PTFE fuel line as the OEM fuel line tends to bind/kink over time and can cause fuel pressure drop issues, which is no bueno.

    I meant to ask before, what is the current mileage and are you the second owner?

    Also, I saw you raised your EGT component protection temperature value way up. Even though you no longer have a cat, you still need to keep that at a reasonable temperature to protect the exhaust valvetrain. Depending on the VT year, I like to keep it at 1825-1850 degrees F to compensate for the early detection offset where comp prot kicks in below the target. HPT only has the nominal (base) comp prot lambda map and not the "shit hits the fan" minimal lambda map (which is 0.65!). The Turbo Delay map might be useful, as well as the Lambda Adder Mult map.
    Last edited by zugig; 3 Days Ago at 12:19 PM.

  11. #11
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    1422s went in and the attached was loaded/logged. Weak pulls as Mexico is a little tough this time of season.

    I did adjust the EGT's down before I loaded it as I saw your post so appreciate that. I was mimicking another tune in a post prior.

    Yes it is a full DP and the fuel line is on my list to order! I have read horror stories on VTs about the collapsing and such.

    Current millage is 72,400. I purchased the car at 36k as the 2nd owner IIRC. Spent it's life in Florida until April 2018 and now is in New Hampshire.
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    Last edited by Illmat1c; 3 Days Ago at 07:49 PM.

  12. #12
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    Ok, so you're out of warranty and free to do whatever. ENEOS is a decent true full synthetic oil. You can actually go to a lower viscosity 0W-30 or 0W-20 as long as wear resistance remains high with OCIs staying at 3000-3500 miles. If you don't know the age of the ignition coils nor have changed them yet, it's time to order a full set of new OEM ignition coils. More later on additional foundational mods to do for stabilization.

    If you're close to a highway, 2nd through 3rd gear pulls on uphill on-ramps are most useful when logging if LEOs are a problem.

    Will look at your #4 tune in a bit and provide more feedback.

  13. #13
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    Sounds good Zugig! No rush at all, car feels pretty good with the new setup. AFRs reading good, no KR and no other hiccups.

    To be fair I get Eneos at cost so that's like 95% of the reason I run it, I did run 30w twice but the head noise drove me nuts. With the 40w it stayed quiet, of course that was in FL. Being up here I could probably net the same affect with 30 since it's oh well 60 degrees cooler.

    I wish I was, I live in a town of 1,800 people...there's 0 other Velos here and a total of 6 modded cars. Everyone knows when someone does a pull haha.
    Last edited by Illmat1c; 3 Days Ago at 08:23 AM.

  14. #14
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    Here's a starter tune I modified from your last (#4) posted tune. Try this out and use the compare function to see what I changed. Fueling, throttle and safety additions.

    14VTR-1.04-Zmods.hpt

    If you can't write this specific file, you'll have to copy the tables and edit the row/column headers manually (if changed). Pay careful attention to the maps where I changed the row/column headers. It's up to you to figure out why I changed what I changed, but ask questions if you like.
    Last edited by zugig; 2 Days Ago at 01:01 PM.

  15. #15
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    Challenge accepted.... j/k! I do have questions haha

    - I see the Idle RPM changes (I see you trying to sneak them up to that 1k mark )
    - ECT temp changes for the temp tables and the boiling prevention (Does this mean the Cold maps for Cam angle as well?)
    - 34903 MDL matched to the max load requesting to "prevent the prevention" kicking in
    - Adding the airflow at idle? Softening the gap in pressure drops/surge? Lost on this one
    - Desired throttle seems to be a large target change - I tried this previously to smooth out the throttle but got a bit of BOV fluttering. I assumed the load was triggering it in the system as a fail safe. I understand this as the throttle position increases the more air should be flowing in than stock. I used a generic across the map but seems yours is quite progressive. It's a linear relation correct?
    - Closed loop min lambda change - Understand
    - For gear shift lambda, I thought that would be for auto's but would this be so reentry to the gearing is preset rather than 1.0?
    - Lambda TR cutoffs - Understand
    - Subtle PE changes - Understand
    - EGT protections (thank you for those #'s)
    - RPM Limits incorporate EOT's and ECT's (also thank you for those #'s)
    - Smoothing on the DD maps.

  16. #16
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    Idle: Yes, keeping it higher than 850 is my preference (1000 is normal for me). All I ask is that you try the tune as is before changing anything.

    ECT boiling prevention is just something to keep the coolant flowing. It's also a good idea to get a colder (160 degree F) thermostat to keep coolant temps down. We'll mess with the fans later as I haven't had access to them previously.

    We're not changing anything cam-related now. I saw you do smoothing of one row on the warm intake cam map, but leave those alone for now.

    Airflow at idle is just cracking the throttle open a hair more for smoother tip-in/tip-out behavior under 4 MPH (what the ECM assumes is idle).

    Desired throttle (angle) is increased slightly down low and in the middle, while aggressively near the top to create more linear throttle behavior and smoothing. The related map in which you made some small changes down low is actually related to turbo compressor output, so don't change that one any further.

    Gear shift lambda is something I haven't used before, but essentially I modified it to keep lambda stable. The ECM does know what gear you're in, even on a manual transmission, so it made sense to try it.

    Most everything else is just smoothing and adding a bit more safety to prevent cold revving and also used different RPM limiters so if something triggers, you can look up what is causing a rev limiter in the tune.

    I also bumped your max. RPM limit to 7300 for a bit more overhead and higher speeds in each gear.

    Right now the goal is just to change the obvious maps to logical choices that help the car's driveability and general safety. We'll get to power production soon enough. There will be many maps in which we have no idea what they are, simply don't touch them. Once you become familiar with the basic ones, then we can focus on more than one area at a time after testing is done to determine how behavior is affected.
    Last edited by zugig; 2 Days Ago at 04:48 PM.

  17. #17
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    Gotcha on all fronts, makes sense and totally on board the test n' tune train. I loaded your tune on as is and the only thing I didn't like was the "potato like" decel throttle control. As I let off the car it wants to run away, requiring more brakes and such to slow it down. It was quite noticeable. Otherwise I flashed it in my work parking lot and logged my ride home, stopped on my friends road to get some mini 3rd gear pulls to check AFRs, I can try and snag a 4th later on tonight.

    Otherwise car felt good, saw 20lbs, good AFRs, no KR, the Tip-in was definitely better.

    I do have access to that thermostat as well.
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    Last edited by Illmat1c; 2 Days Ago at 05:31 PM.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Illmat1c View Post
    the only thing I didn't like was the "potato like" decel throttle control. As I let off the car it wants to run away, requiring more brakes and such to slow it down. It was quite noticeable.
    Interesting. Please describe if this happens just when sitting idling or when at low speed and releasing the throttle, or other conditions. That is why we say every car is different as sometimes unexpected peculiar behavior occurs. This is also why we try to avoid making changes to too many maps in a revision.

    Since you already know tuning is a continual exercise in solving problems regarding both the factory tune negative behavior and negative behavior caused by our changes, you should be able to sort this out and salt throttle behavior to your taste.

    When you are ready to swap the t-stat out, it is also a great time to upgrade to a superior coolant (like Mishimoto Liquid Chill) and dilute the mixture with distilled water slightly to a 65/35 or 60/40 coolant/water mixture (since you are in NH) for better cooling and quicker ECT recovery after hard runs.

    Also consider doing the coolant bypass mod, swap to a 60mm Elantra/Soul throttle body (TB) and add a multiport TB spacer for a bit more granular throttle behavior (also sets you up to easily add a boost gauge and/or a boost reference and nozzle for water/alcohol injection). I have a couple of spacers sitting around if you need one.

    These are a few more foundational mods that are very common and preferred. Others to follow soon.
    Last edited by zugig; 2 Days Ago at 08:12 PM.

  19. #19
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    For example, if you do not have firmer lower engine mount bushings, you probably are (or soon will be) experiencing significant wheel hop on hard launches. There are a few aftermarket lower engine mounts available, but the bushings are very cheap to see which durometer you can tolerate before deciding on a spendy aftermarket unit.

    Rigid collars are great to tighten up the wandering steering feeling and give a bit more nuanced steering feeling at speed.

  20. #20
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    The throttle feels like that all the time, it's only once I let off, at idle it's not noticeable but the more load/rpm the worse the hang gets. In the log near the end I tried to blip different RPMs to confirm the TPS % drop vs the engine run out. Didn't really show up how I wanted. For knowledge purposes, pulling out the air from the Desired Throttle angle down low would take that back out correct? It's like at 14% when I'm off the throttle it's just got a little too much sauce.

    I actually have set of new OEM mounts that I was going to toss in, I've run poly setups in my other cars, I don't mind the added shake but I?d like to avoid it if possible.

    I will say this car won't see many launches, mainly it will be running at Club Motorsports, Lime rock, NHMS and Monticello (if I can get an invite back out there).

    Coolant bypass was done already while I was in FL, I contemplated the TB setup in the future but depending on group I run with they may bump me a class because some consider it a "power mod".
    Last edited by Illmat1c; 2 Days Ago at 08:21 AM.