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Thread: 2014 R-Spec tuning

  1. #1
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    2014 R-Spec tuning

    Hello everyone!
    New to HPTuners and the Hyundai platform, came over from Audi and VW so the Bosch is something I had time with but I am looking to add a smidge of boost to my top end among some other small things, any chance one of you experienced tuners could take a peak? I lurked through all the threads trying to gather what I could as far as layouts, PIDs to log and stuff that I did after my stock logging so my future logging will be more helpful. I included a stock log, stock tune and my updated tune for reference as well as a MOD list. Any help is appreciated!

    MODS:
    K/N Intake
    Intake res delete
    Pierce Motorsports Catless DP with 1 small muffler
    Catch can
    Stock plugs (I have a set of ngk1422's ready to go in)
    Clutch switch disabled (is on a switch but I can't stand the rev hang)

    What I am tuning for:
    20/21PSI - TM set
    Remove speed limiter - DONE (V3)
    Quiet down cold start idle if possible - DONE (V3)
    Clean up AFR - PE Set
    7k Redline - DONE (V3)

    The attachments in this post will have the most updated tune for convenience.

    Thanks!
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by Illmat1c; 21 Hours Ago at 08:06 PM. Reason: MOD List update

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Illmat1c View Post
    Hello everyone!
    New to HPTuners and the Hyundai platform, came over from Audi and VW so the Bosch is something I had time with but I am looking to add a smidge of boost to my top end among some other small things, any chance one of you experienced tuners could take a peak? I lurked through all the threads trying to gather what I could as far as layouts, PIDs to log and stuff that I did after my stock logging so my future logging will be more helpful. I included a stock log, stock tune and my updated tune for reference as well as a MOD list. Any help is appreciated!

    MODS:
    K/N Intake
    Intake res delete
    Catless DP with 1 small muffler
    Catch can
    Stock plugs (I have a set of ngk1422's ready to go in)
    Clutch switch disabled (is on a switch but I can't stand the rev hang)

    What I am tuning for:
    20/21PSI
    Remove speed limiter
    Quiet down idle if possible
    Clean up AFR
    Can we delete the rear 02 so I can run a wideband there?

    Thanks!
    It looks like you only changed RPM limits and made a slight change to a few idle maps, so impossible to give any advice in its current state. If your idle isn't smooth you most likely have a mechanical cause, but raising the base idle to 850 is a good start.

    The Veloster Turbo comes equipped with a factory wideband that can be monitored through OBD.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xerxes1 View Post
    It looks like you only changed RPM limits and made a slight change to a few idle maps, so impossible to give any advice in its current state. If your idle isn't smooth you most likely have a mechanical cause, but raising the base idle to 850 is a good start.

    The Veloster Turbo comes equipped with a factory wideband that can be monitored through OBD.
    The idle on cold start is what I actually want to adjust. With no cats I don't need the high idle as much to warm them up quicker for emissions. I also changed some of the Torque mapping to increase the boost as per some of the threads in the forum. That was my biggest question. From what I saw those tables affect the end power goal the most.

    Any chance you have the full PID list so I can log that sensor? I am rebuilding my VCM Scanner layout so that would be a huge help.

    Thanks!
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by Illmat1c; 21 Hours Ago at 08:08 PM.

  4. #4
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    https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...o-factory-tune

    Scroll down and look for the XML config files I posted.

  5. #5
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    Much appreciated! These are the ones I ended up using. Working on the cold start idle has been successful, no more loud crackling from the high idle. Been adjust the torque mapping but can?t seem to get any affect.

    Is it strange the TPS % only reaches 84%? It shows commanding 100% but the reading is only 84%.

    Thanks

  6. #6
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    TPS at 84% is the 100% value point aka WOT.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by trdtoy View Post
    TPS at 84% is the 100% value point aka WOT.
    Thank you! Went back through some of the older posts and built out a new tune to load in for tomorrow.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  8. #8
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    Took a look at your latest tune compared to the stock tune and you're kind of all over the place. Before you start adding power without understanding how torque management works, focus on fueling first and the cold start behavior second. Since you have done enough cold start stuff to make you happy, we can work on the details of that after your fueling is sorted.

    For fueling, in the Power Enrich tab:
    Driver Demand (DD) and Driver Demand Fail (DDF) maps are typically made to be equivalent. Look at the default Enable Throttle threshold, which is 85. This means moderate to hard throttle (but not WOT) does not enrichen but stays at stoich lambda (1.00), which is not good and can lead to misfires or worse. You want enrichment to occur much sooner when you press the accelerator.

    Set the Enable Throttle to 40 and then change the DD & DDF row headers to 40 on top and use arbitrary values for the three row headers beneath, such as 60, 80 and 90. You don't want the top row set to stoich (1.00), you want to add fuel as quickly as possible once you pass that threshold since the turbo spools rather quickly and load will increase relative to boost pressure. By 3200 RPM you'll want to be at 0.82 and taper down to .80 at the very top. Capture a log and see how quickly fuel is added on varying throttle. Play around with the activation threshold value to see what you prefer, then readjust the DD/DDF row headers after you settle on a value.

    About your plugs. NGK 1422s are not that good. NGK R2556G-8 race plugs are what you want. HKS M45XL would be next best. Gap to 0.028" to start out.

    K&N intake is mediocre, especially with the lid on. A 3.5" open intake is much better.

    Which exact downpipe do you have?

    If you're going to use catch cans, you should have one on each valve cover outlet (breather and PCV).

    Where are you located (generally) and what specific fuel are you running? Elevation and climate (humidity) play a big role, as do both octane and ethanol percentage.
    Last edited by zugig; 1 Day Ago at 07:12 AM.

  9. #9
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    Thanks Zugig! I know the 1422's and K/N are not the best, I am not looking for huge power just that OEM+ feel so hoping I can squeak by using them but I will go about ordering up some new stuff if needed. The downpipe is a Pierce Motorsports and the catch cans are in. Typically in Southern New Hampshire running 93.

    I appreciate the info and will go out logging and adjusting with all that in mind. Made those changes first.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by Illmat1c; 22 Hours Ago at 07:00 PM.

  10. #10
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    No problem. Go ahead and put those 1422s in for now but be very careful about watching KR readings. Any KR in more than 1 cylinder for longer than a second or two is a problem. Saw your lambda changes in #3. Looks fine for now.

    Since you have no cats, you'll want to just set idle RPM to whatever your target is globally across the entire map. I prefer a higher idle of 1000 RPM for easier launching from a stop without having to gas it as much.

    Is the downpipe a full elbowed downpipe or just the lower catted section? I assume your fuel is E10 (10% ethanol) 93. It's a good idea to get a PTFE fuel line as the OEM fuel line tends to bind/kink over time and can cause fuel pressure drop issues, which is no bueno.

    I meant to ask before, what is the current mileage and are you the second owner?

    Also, I saw you raised your EGT component protection temperature value way up. Even though you no longer have a cat, you still need to keep that at a reasonable temperature to protect the exhaust valvetrain. Depending on the VT year, I like to keep it at 1825-1850 degrees F to compensate for the early detection offset where comp prot kicks in below the target. HPT only has the nominal (base) comp prot lambda map and not the "shit hits the fan" minimal lambda map (which is 0.65!). The Turbo Delay map might be useful, as well as the Lambda Adder Mult map.
    Last edited by zugig; 5 Hours Ago at 12:19 PM.