1. You need to get Wideband data imported into the scanner so the folks here can watch the wideband feed in real-time with the scan.
google it (youtube it) theres a bunch of videos how to do this.
when done right it will report something like this, that you can use later to more fully tune and understand how the car is running by re-watching the playback
wbafter-a-day-of-tuning.png
it is in there just we have our scanners set different so you cant see mine. here is the afr and afr error. now I realize its not pretty and most of the red can be explained by either being on the 2 step(he for some reason decided to use it this run even though had no traction on the brake), or being on the revlimiter. also it is set to 1 cell hit so many will disappear by upping the cell hit count.
2. If you are using 93 octane it is extremely temperature sensitive. The IAT location and sensitivity is very important. Make sure the IAT sensor is working and accurate and positioned near the intake manifold (within a couple feet, after the intercooler)
actually the best we have is 91 octane here in southern wisconsin. IAT was about 3 inches before the throttle body and was getting heat soaked sitting in the engine bay..so we did relocate it to just after the intercooler. there is 2-3' of pipe til the throttle body.
3. Since 93 (gasoline) is so temp sensitive make sure it stays cool, use an intercooler and keep it 90-105*F for safety.
Use the IAT vs Spark tables to pull some timing when the IAT goes over say 105*F start pulling timing
i'm assuming you mean intercooler for the air not cooling the fuel. car does have an intercooler...just added a bigger one actually. I think it is 31x11x4 if memory serves me....but im getting old(47 tomorrow). I see in our tune it starts pulling timing about 131 degrees. I can change that.
4. Pump fuel is not forgiving and neither is a cast aluminum piston. I recommend you start lower with timing and 'sneak up' on the right number by using one of many techniques. 15* for 10psi sounds like it would be okay. I run 15-16* for 7psi and gradually slope down to about 9* of timing near 14-15psi (93 only) to give you an idea.
Maybe consider installing a water injection system (use 50/50 meth/water at first) to gain missing headroom for errors while you tune the engine and learn.
In other words, if you have a couple extra degrees of timing by accident, or too lean of an a/f ratio, the engine will usually be damaged in one hit if using straight gasoline.
On the other hand, if you are using a methanol spray control qty, the engine will likely survive long enough for you to eventually realize the mistake. Just don't run out of methanol.
I have had others say to me that 15 is low....they were running 18 degrees timing. ive also compared to many others spark table in the repository and most seem very similar to mine..
5. The oil dilution effect sounds like poor cruise/idle tuning.
Notice in my picture the a/f is always around 14.5 to 15.2 in the cruise/light load regions.
This helps keep the oil clean and the plugs clean.
Next, make sure the engine has a full complement of PCV action during WOT.
Here is a write up how that works
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1600218648
The active PCV suction at WOT when implemented properly will keep crankcase(blow by) vapors out of the engine oil so you can drive the car many miles without having to worry about the oil quality as rapidly degrading.
6. Read up on the sloppy mechanics wiki to make sure all of your parts and information are up to snuff.
https://sites.google.com/site/sloppywiki/
i'm assuming you mean I have the MAP characteristics and injector info correct. those have all been checked...is there something else you meant?
For example
-make sure you have TR-6 for testing and use TR-7's (Iridium IMO) for full boost (12-15psi 93 octane) gapped right (.028 to .032" but sometimes .025")
-learn how to read plugs "timing strap" for dialing in the timing and how to tell colorization of plugs over time
etc
we are using tr7's and gaped to the recommendations given. I do know how to read the timing straps. would be a lot easier if you could pull plugs on this engine without removing the headers....its a lot of work to do it every "log session" or "run"
7. general advice
-make sure your hptuner tables are smooth, use the graph visualize function to tell if there are any sharp peaks or valleys
ex.VE table needs to look nice and smooth:
latestve.png
-do a search here for tuning help in the gen3 section to pick up 10+ years of advice also