The build, (my first) is a "04" 5.3L Sloppy stage 2 cam and PAC springs. AEM wideband 2.5" shorty headers, 2.5" stainless dual exhaust to Flowmaster FX dumping above rear axle. A "63" Muncie M20 4 speed with a "03" suburban P59 ecm in a 5"ish lowered "88" s10. The battery is mounted in the bed (Optima red top) 4awg wire to alternator. factory wiring harness from an "02" yukon I thinned everything I didn't need out according to LT1swap.com. It is mostly factory routing except a couple grounds where moved to the back of the block same as done at LT1swap.com. The tune is mostly (what I could, different ECM)taken from Sloppy mechanics G48 I haven't really changed it yet. For the most part it runs strong and sounds mean It also idles really rich, 02 voltage stays high for too long sometimes the 02s seem "lazy" and don't switch as fast as I would think they should.

I keep getting 02 heater circuit codes P0135 (bank 1) and PO155 (bank 2). Driver 02 is new OEM ACDelco, I have battery voltage on the pink wire and ground on the other (unplugged key in run position). Driver 02 heater circuit has 5.5 ohms the passenger 02 had 15.9 ohms.

Before I really started driving it I was trying to hook up my Tach and read it needed a 1k ohm resistor tapped it from power to the signal wire to boost the signal, I accidentally used a 1 ohm instead. Did I fry a driver? could it be related?

I wired both elements of a 3157 bulb in place of the heater to try voltage drop tests. I fiddled with as much wiring as I could to see if I could get the bulb to flicker but nothing. I am new to all of this and am really trying my best. Always looking for guidance I saw:
Heater ground side to oil drain plug
-driver side 119mv
-passenger side 93mv
Does this seem alright?

I am wondering if I have broke the drivers in the PCM? How could I tell? Anyway I would like to say thanks in advance for any help. I love most anything with an engine especially a V8. I am not generally a computer person but will learn, I believe this is the best way to do it. I like the idea of looking at data and making exact changes I just have a lot to learn about reading the data. I am looking forward to becoming active in this great community of tuners and tuners to be! I will try to post a tune, log and config.

I cleared all the codes before this drive to see if the light would come back on, I had wondered if the running rich at idle could have something to do with the Dakota digital VSS pass through not being hooked up to the transmission but it didn't seem to. The CEL didn't come on during the drive but did about a block after restarting the car.

The day I start tuning a copy of Matts tune 30 Idle search and flex enabled MAP sensor linear ch.hpt
Maf tuning perameters afr needing calibrated.xml
11 15 VSS just wired up turned off 02 heater codes before drive no CEL.hpl

Thanks again,
Josh