@SlowNStock
Very much appreciated!
@SlowNStock
Very much appreciated!
Last edited by Wynnded; 09-12-2023 at 06:31 AM.
TRD Tune from 2008 Tundra
Tundra Stock TRD 3YWF3400.hpt
Hmm...never seen that before. Is that the WB logged with VCM Scanner?Originally Posted by snivilous
Yes sir.
Add Channel, Innovate SP (either AFR or EQ for what you want):
5ggvA8Z.jpg
Once it's added to your channels, right click the channel and at the top of the list is "Transform" which will pop up this window. You want to click Parameter and search Innovate and it will pop up a bunch of gauges and select the one you have, and then you need to adjust the function to 68.085 and +7.35.
rfZOgi2.jpg
And I believe the AEM is similar since people send me datalogs with AEM readings, including AEM boost. Though the Innovate can't output boost based on what they told me talking to them. In the case of the Innovate you need a RS232 serial to USB cord, where as the AEM (some, maybe not all) plugs into the OBD2 as a pass through that the MPVI then connects to. The Innovate setup is finnicky at best, majority of the time it doesn't show up and I know I'm not the only one. Requires some plugging and unplugging, and in my case restarting the computer with it plugged in to identify it.
I'll have to root around in my magical bin of mysterious miscellaneous cables to see if I have one. Thanks!
hello im new here, i have a 2016 tundra 5.7 with only a cold air intake. any recommendations on how to tune it. im going to attach my stock map
I sure hope this thread keeps going. I have a 2014 tundra 5.7 non flex, I just bought a MPVI3. My goals are to maximize towing performance with smoother shifting.
Does anyone have a tune for a Magnuson Supercharged 2008-2013 Land Cruiser?
Send an email to [email protected] They have calibrations available for that setup.
Thank you. They wouldn't sell me a calibration without a tuner as well. I ended up building my own off of a TRD Tundra calibration
Got a 2021 Tundra TRD Pro bone stock and looking to spice up the tune a bit (pedal map is crap, shifting, torque management). Anyone has a tune/hints how to dial in some of these changes. Thanks in advance.
2012 CTS-V BDT, Auto, Every Option | Lingefelter 2.55" UP | DW65 Injectors | C&R HX | Pierburg CWA100 | 90mm TB | Airaid CF Intake with Green Filter | Lingefelter 160deg T-Stat | 534whp/503tq
2002 C5 Z06 Quick Silver, AR Headers, Borla Axle Back, A&A Kit
I have a 2008 Tundra 5.7 with the TRD blower. I see files here for a 2015 and 2008 TRD base tune. Is there a reason not to use the 2015 one? when i do a compare, there are some differences. Seems like i should use the 2015 as it may have better calibrations? but dont want to load something if there was a change on the 2015 that would hurt the 2008. Thoughts?
Functionally, there's no significant difference between the two other than throttle mapping (more aggressive in the 2008) and spark strategy (ref High Octane table values) - neither is really "better", and you're going to copy from whichever you use as a base into the file read from your PCM.
The main thing you'll need to watch out for are differences in definitions. A (mostly) benign example is the incorrect header definition in the 2015 file (and many other, non-TRD files), which results in Accelerator Pedal Position being doubled in the axis ('08 on top, '15 on bottom):
TCC Definition Difference.PNG
There are some other, small quirks, that can be addressed regardless of which you use as the base (Startup Airflow spike in the 2015, High Load Throttle Limit and Power Enrich Delay in the 2008, etc.).
Pedal Mapping
You can pull pedal mapping from a '07-13 for something more aggressive; you can blend it down toward the '14-21 values if you find that's too aggressive (Paste Special - Average). Keep in mind, in higher gears (5th, 6th), you can get by with more aggressive throttle mapping without the pedal feeling overly sensitive - that can be nice for drivability, since the driver can use less pedal for a given speed (which is also a psychological trick to make the truck seem more powerful than it is). Those changes can be complemented with the Load Limit tables, but that's more involved.
Shift Scheduling
Most common change made to shifting is to increase WOT Upshift RPM, especially for 1-2. You simply take the actual Upshift RPM from your log and compare it to your target to determine the correction factor. If, for example, you had a WOT shift occur at 5,600 RPM and wanted it to occur at 6,200 RPM, you would calculate:
So we would multiply our corresponding WOT Upshift Output Shaft RPM by 1.10. Be sure to increase the rev limit (Engine -> Fuel -> Cutoff, DFCO -> RPM Limits -> Maximium) to ensure you have some buffer to not hit the limiter on Upshift (say 200 RPM).Correction Factor = Target RPM / Actual RPM = 6,200 RPM / 5,600 RPM = ~1.10
Changing the full Up/Downshift and TCC schedules would take several pages to really explain - high level, holding a gear longer prior to Upshift (increasing Output Shaft RPM or decreasing Pedal Position) and holding a gear less prior to Downshift (decreasing Output Shaft RPM or increasing Pedal Position) makes the truck feel more lively, at the expense of being more prone to hunting (rapid up/downshifting) and NVH (e.g., "hanging" at higher RPM in a gear vs Upshifting).
You can use "livelier" Up/Downshift settings for lower gears (1-3), stockish values for 4-6 Upshifts and 4th Downshift, while holding 5th and 6th longer prior to Downshift (to prevent hunting on the highway and around town), then move TCC to match. You can split up those approaches between Normal and Tow/Haul, too (e.g., hold 5th & 6th longer in Tow/Haul only to compensate for additional load).
Torque Management
Torque Management is also a long-winded change - the "easy" way is to smooth the factory table to remove the larger "lumps and bumps", then do A-B-C testing, where "A" is the baseline, "B" is increased from baseline by a nominal amount across the board, and "C" is decreased from baseline by the same nominal amount (so "A" could be stock, "B" could be +5%, and "C" could be -5%).
Generally, more Upshift Torque Management is smoother and achieves quicker shifts, while less increases harshness and achieves quicker acceleration - excessively high Upshift Torque Management can also increase harshness, though, because you "crash" into the torque reduction, as the PCM can only recover torque so quickly. Downshift Torque Management is a little different animal because we're trying to speed the engine up to complete the shift, so some engine torque can be beneficial.
When you make changes to Shift/TCC Schedule and Torque Management, move in small increments (say 5%) so you can sneak up on what you find is the sweet spot for your driving style. It takes more iterations, but it usually winds up faster in the end because you're moving in the right direction between iterations more often. Be sure to keep some sort of notes as you drive, because you'll need to track where your changes do/don't work with some specificity (e.g., "5% torque reduction good at 2000 RPM and light throttle, but harsh at 3000 RPM and medium throttle").
Last edited by SlowNStock; 3 Weeks Ago at 01:50 AM.
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