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Thread: 2012 gt trans issues

  1. #1
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    2012 gt trans issues

    Hi folks,

    Got a 12 GT with 3600 stall circle D 3C vortech v3 with wastegate and blow off id 1000s E85 and it feels like its slipping badly and im not sure why... wondering if its mechanical or just tune....

    Here are the tune and log files.

    Thanks!E-85 only v6.0 hptuners.hpttrans or tune help.hpl

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaleph View Post
    Hi folks,

    Got a 12 GT with 3600 stall circle D 3C vortech v3 with wastegate and blow off id 1000s E85 and it feels like its slipping badly and im not sure why... wondering if its mechanical or just tune....

    Here are the tune and log files.

    Thanks!E-85 only v6.0 hptuners.hpttrans or tune help.hpl
    Who tuned the trans? In my opinion (no offense) the trans tuning needs work for that converter. Mine slipped the converter like that when I put the 4C converter in until I tuned it properly. You are making unnecessary heat for nothing.
    Knock Retard is like a Horsepower Tax: (+) Knock Retard = Less Net Power, (--) Knock Retard = More Net Power.

    2014 Mustang GT Premium. VMP Gen2R Supercharged with an FTI 3000rpm Converter. JLT, BMR, Steeda, Viking, etc.
    Don't fix it if it ain't broken | Maximum effort gets maximum results

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    It was a shop here in Lubbock and i am new to auto transmissions so kinda feeling my way through any tips?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaleph View Post
    It was a shop here in Lubbock and i am new to auto transmissions so kinda feeling my way through any tips?
    Well think about how a torque converter works. There is a fluid connection between the input and output of the torque converter. The heavier the load, the more it slips (unlocked of course).

    Your current shift schedule is commanding the trans to upshift quickly even under moderate throttle input. In your log, you're already in 4th gear at low mph! It's slipping like crazy because 4th gear is a heavier load than 3rd or even 2nd. Higher gear ratios make 'work' easier at the cost of rpm!

    Change the shift schedule to allow the car to rev out a little at higher throttle. In other words hold the gears longer before upshift depending on throttle input. After you get it to slip significantly less, then focus on locking the converter depending on your throttle input and load. This is preference. On my car, the more throttle I apply, the longer it holds the gears and won't lock the converter for performance reasons. Under lighter throttle I'll upshift sooner and lock it since there isn't much load - saves gas, less heat, etc.

    Trial and error. Make adjustments, drive it, see how you like those adjustments. If this was helpful, slap me some rep on the bottom left (a star)
    Knock Retard is like a Horsepower Tax: (+) Knock Retard = Less Net Power, (--) Knock Retard = More Net Power.

    2014 Mustang GT Premium. VMP Gen2R Supercharged with an FTI 3000rpm Converter. JLT, BMR, Steeda, Viking, etc.
    Don't fix it if it ain't broken | Maximum effort gets maximum results

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    Awesome info so essentially raise the mph on the higher tps levels so she can stretch her legs a bit. So will that correct the fast shifting at lower input levels as well? Lastly as far as the TCC goes which tables should I focus on to get a more direct feel or in essence tune out the “looseness”? Forgive my newness :P A list of tables to focus my efforts on would be epic!

    Thank you

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaleph View Post
    Awesome info so essentially raise the mph on the higher tps levels so she can stretch her legs a bit. So will that correct the fast shifting at lower input levels as well? Lastly as far as the TCC goes which tables should I focus on to get a more direct feel or in essence tune out the “looseness”? Forgive my newness :P A list of tables to focus my efforts on would be epic!

    Thank you
    Spend time looking at shift scheduling and TCC apply and release. Look at them and really familiarize yourself on these tables before modifying them, and then make one change at a time and see what it does. Your up shift and downshift schedules need to complement one another, you don't want them interfering with each other. Same goes for converter lockup and release.

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    Perfect that’s where I’ll start then. Thank you both for some great advice and guidance.

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    Question is it just line pressure that effects holding the gear after the shift or ? First auto i have had so trying to learn

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    Also should i be concerned i see no TCC line pressure in my logs nm i just missed them...
    Last edited by Kaleph; 12-19-2019 at 06:48 PM. Reason: im blind

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaleph View Post
    Question is it just line pressure that effects holding the gear after the shift or ? First auto i have had so trying to learn
    If you're asking if the line pressure on the clutch after the shift is completed is what holds all the power that's correct.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaleph View Post
    Question is it just line pressure that effects holding the gear after the shift or ? First auto i have had so trying to learn
    Whatever you do don't add more line pressure. You're already at 250psi which in my opinion is too high.
    Knock Retard is like a Horsepower Tax: (+) Knock Retard = Less Net Power, (--) Knock Retard = More Net Power.

    2014 Mustang GT Premium. VMP Gen2R Supercharged with an FTI 3000rpm Converter. JLT, BMR, Steeda, Viking, etc.
    Don't fix it if it ain't broken | Maximum effort gets maximum results

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    Yep just wanted to make sure I got the basic operation down.

    Blackbolt 250 was recommended to me and I had seen the same in some other build around here, is that too much pressure for the seals?

    Thanks!