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Thread: 2013 Charger R/T Magnuson Tune

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    2013 Charger R/T Magnuson Tune

    Anybody out there have a good working tune they wouldn't mind sharing with me to help me figure out how messed up mine is? Not from me, I bought the car used and can defiantly tell its been messed with. Magnuson claims the stuff in it was not from there tune. 13 charger 5.7 with long tube headers, 2 1/2 inch exhaust with flowmaster mufflers, magnuson tvs 2300 with 8lb pulley. Thanks

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    I placed my magnuson and stock tunes off of my 2015 Challenger RT manual in the tune repository under alias "casper". The magnuson tune (done by Arrington who I think had Petty's garage do it) had several DTC turned off and the rear O2 were essentially turned off as the ECT temp was max'ed out. This was preventing my monitors to complete. I copied the DTCs and O2 temp back to stock and it took me several attempts to have the monitors complete while running the drive cycle but I managed to get them all to complete and passed my emissions test last October.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Homer View Post
    I placed my magnuson and stock tunes off of my 2015 Challenger RT manual in the tune repository under alias "casper". The magnuson tune (done by Arrington who I think had Petty's garage do it) had several DTC turned off and the rear O2 were essentially turned off as the ECT temp was max'ed out. This was preventing my monitors to complete. I copied the DTCs and O2 temp back to stock and it took me several attempts to have the monitors complete while running the drive cycle but I managed to get them all to complete and passed my emissions test last October.
    Okay thanks, Ill check them out. It says Arrington on my sc, wonder if its still their tune. My suspicion is that when the headers got put on it got re-tuned and that's where my problems are coming from. Although with you now saying you have the same set up and missing emissions stuff I suspect it was the original tune all together. Originally I was asking Arrington to help me out but they said they wouldn't do anything unless I brought the car to them and I live in Oregon lol, a bit of a drive.

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    The tune that was posted was the final run from Arrington. Since then I installed long tubes with 2" primaries and high flow cats (cat back still 2.5") which I had to tweak the PE tables, O2 transport and fuel trims. For a while I was getting a slow to respond O2 bank 1 DTC until I replaced the O2 sensors which seemed to do the trick as it never popped up again. That sensor had a different colored plug than the rest so the previous owner or dealership must have changed it as I bought the car as CPO. Most searches on the web led to people saying disable the rear O2s but that would never let the monitors to complete and that they would muck up fueling but I have had no issues so far. I don't know how the pros do it but what I have done got my emissions to pass and my registration renewed. Even with a 6.2 cam which I recently installed the monitors completed. However I am now fighting a P219A which only pops up once in a while and seemed to occur right when the ambient temps dropped. I am looking for a shop in the Chicagoland area to dyno the car as I know I am leaving power on the table. Good luck and hopefully someone more knowledgeable can chime in.

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    I like the idea of doing the 6.2 cam, is it worth it or would it be better to just get a supercharged/custom grind from someone like comp?

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    Quote Originally Posted by robertkillinger View Post
    I like the idea of doing the 6.2 cam, is it worth it or would it be better to just get a supercharged/custom grind from someone like comp?
    For a $200 cam it ain't bad at all. Really woke up my RT. Since I have a manual install did not require head removal...just installed mopar performance springs (already had comp cam pushrods) and was good to go. You can buy the performance spring cheaper separately than for the kit (wish I knew that ahead of time). The in-car spring swap was a biotch and if it wasn't for that the whole thing would have taken a day at a nice leisure pace. If I could do it all over again I would have upgraded the oil pump. Have yet to get it dyno tuned but like I said the engine is "woke". As many have said the cam can be installed without dropping the pan.
    https://www.challengertalk.com/threa...5/post-8511679

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    Is 8psi low risk on an non-forged all stock 5.7?
    2013 Dodge Charger R/T Plus, Stock 5.7L, Edelbrock E-Force Stage 1, 3.25" Pulley, 450-HP 459-TQ.
    Corsa Sport CatBack, 3.06:1 Wavetrac, Dual Fans, 1-7/16 Radiator, Mopar Oil Cooler
    2005 Radix'd Silverado L33 5.3 ECSB Z71 @ 387-HP 395-TQ

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2therock View Post
    Is 8psi low risk on an non-forged all stock 5.7?
    By everything I've read and heard 8psi is the safe level for the 5.7. I have heard of some 12psi 93 octane jobs but I wouldn't risk it. And definitely don't want to do any more then 8 on the 6.1 or 6.4.

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    Thanks. Edelbrock ships their e-force 5.7 with an estimated 6.5-7psi configuration 3.25" pulley. I would be curious what increase in psi & power a 3.00" would be.
    2013 Dodge Charger R/T Plus, Stock 5.7L, Edelbrock E-Force Stage 1, 3.25" Pulley, 450-HP 459-TQ.
    Corsa Sport CatBack, 3.06:1 Wavetrac, Dual Fans, 1-7/16 Radiator, Mopar Oil Cooler
    2005 Radix'd Silverado L33 5.3 ECSB Z71 @ 387-HP 395-TQ

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    I would stick with the 3.25 until you do some more to the actual engine. The pulley on my Magnuson is a 3.20 making 8psi so id think a 3.00 would be 12 or so. Not certain of course.

  11. #11
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    WoW. That much jump in 0.20"? Thanks
    2013 Dodge Charger R/T Plus, Stock 5.7L, Edelbrock E-Force Stage 1, 3.25" Pulley, 450-HP 459-TQ.
    Corsa Sport CatBack, 3.06:1 Wavetrac, Dual Fans, 1-7/16 Radiator, Mopar Oil Cooler
    2005 Radix'd Silverado L33 5.3 ECSB Z71 @ 387-HP 395-TQ

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    It's roughtly 1psi per 0.1" pulley diameter reduction. With headers/cam and the 3.2" pulley I typically only see high 6psi, low 7psi boost. I have tried a 3.1" pulley and now consisently see 8psi but I have seen 9psi peaks.