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Thread: Need advice for 3800 series 2 turbo

  1. #21
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    I did as said. And added to the maf. Now my Ltft is reading 0 in idle. my wb err is all over the place but my afr on my gauge is and in Hp tuners are reading the same thing 14 - 16 afr at idle. Tune and Log attached.
    Last edited by 1FasImp; 03-11-2020 at 10:15 AM.

  2. #22
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    LTFT is going to say zero if you disabled closed loop and fuel trims....

    You'll just have to do the best you can with the setup you have. I've never ran those injectors so I don't know if the data is right. Your camshaft is rather large so it's going to fluctuate the air fuel ratio's a decent amount at idle. Play with timing to calm it down and figure out what idle rpm works the best.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

  3. #23
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    So same as before, just play with maf curve till AFR is 14.7 or within 5%. Ive researched alot on the lucas 42.5 injectors. Its really a toss up. I didnt mess with my IFR though, it was already set for the turbo kit.

    So lower rpms, adjust maf to match command AFR, and adjust spark advanced to cars liking. Speaking of spark advanced, i noticed my IAT spark adder table is commanding pulling out a couple of degrees in some temp areas. Is it ok to zero out this table, seeing my IAT sensor isnt being used. Its just zip tied to the maf wires. So its really logging engine bay temperature

  4. #24
    Advanced Tuner ZeroBoostBuick's Avatar
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    you can zero the IAT adder table.

    at idle and cruising you should be in closed loop, and you adjust the maf curve to get the LTFT's as close to zero as possible.

    When accelerating, that's when you go into power enrichment / open loop, and you adjust the MAF so the WB matches the commanded ARFC.

  5. #25
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    Cool thanks for the clarification. Ill zero out that table. Right now ive just been sitting in my driveway idle tuning in open loop. So far I got my WB fluctuating between the High 13s, & 14s, sometimes it'll hit 15 while idling at 800 rpm.

  6. #26
    Advanced Tuner ZeroBoostBuick's Avatar
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    Like 5FDP said... Get your idle RPM up to at least 900,.. sometimes even 1,000 rpm at idle is better.
    In open loop you'll always have a fluctuating idle AFR. Even in closed loop the afr will go up and down a little at idle. The lower the rpm the worst it will be.

  7. #27
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    Got it, Thanks.

    Sorry took so long to respond. Engine was leaking oil and coolant. Had to track that down and fix it.

  8. #28
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    for some reason when i start my car the scanner will read its got 14-15 degrees of knock while idling and is readiing -5 degrees in timing. And when i blip the throttle wit goes away, and everything reads fine. I dont know whats going on. I have researched and cant find anything. Ive tried to figure it out myself and cant. Even if i zero out all the spark adder tables it still does it. I cant figure it out. I also uploaded a pic of my cam specs.

  9. #29
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    I couldn't figure it out. Even After reading through multiple threads on a few sites. Its leaving me with more questions then answers. So I decided, Im going to start fresh. I made the following changes to the original tune for open loop idle tuning using a few write ups. I haven't tried cranking the car yet, because it feels like i'm missing something or maybe because i set something wrong. I've attached the tune and Layout. If someone wouldn't mind double checking it for me, to easy my conscience. Thank you


    Engine - Fuel - Power Enrich - Throttle - Hot
    Set Table 0%

    Engine - Fuel - Power Enrich - Power Enrichment - Base AFR vs. ECT
    Set table 14.7

    Engine - Fuel - Power Enrich - Power Enrichment - RPM Adder
    Set Table 1.000

    Engine - Fuel - Open Loop/Base - Open Loop - O/L AFR
    Set Table 14.7

    Engine - Fuel - Oxygen Sensors - Closed Loop Enable
    284

    Engine - Spark - Advance - Base Corrections - Fuel, IAT, ECT
    Set to 0

    Engine - Torq Management - General - Maximum Torque - vs. RPM
    set to 400 up to 2,200 rpm, and 500 at 2400 rpm

    Engine - Torq Manag - Abuse - Gear & Differential - Inj Disable Number
    Set to 0

    Trans - Torq Manag - Abuse Mode - Enable
    Disabled

    Trans - Torq Manag - - Torq Reductions - Normal, Perform, Downshift
    Set tables to 0

    Engine - Idle - Base Setpoint - Base
    Set table to 850 RPM

    Spark - Advance - Base - High Octane
    +2 degrees in 0.08 - 0.28 airmass, 400 - 1200 rpm

    Engine - Airflow - MAF Calibration - Airflow vs. Freq
    +1g in cells 1500hz - 3625hz

    Engine - Airflow - Main VE - Primary VE ( 0 - 50 KPA )
    - 60% ( 0.6) 0 - 400 RPM, 80% ( 0.8) 800 RPM, 90% ( 0.9 ) 1,200 RPM


    Open Loop Tuning.Layout.xml
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by 1FasImp; 04-04-2020 at 10:17 AM.

  10. #30
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    I followed Idle Rinkrats Tuning guide to get my car to start and adjusted the maf airflow in the idle areas. I am currently working on the Open Loop tuning using Russ k write up. And im running into the same issue as before. After cranking Im getting 14* knock, then it goes a way after a moment. May you please take look at my tune and log, and give me guidance . Ive already ran into this issue and started the tune over from scratch. But it still has me scratching my head. WTF am i doing wrong
    Attached Files Attached Files

  11. #31
    Advanced Tuner ZeroBoostBuick's Avatar
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    Didi you try to re-install the software to the latest version and see if the problem at the beginning persists ?

  12. #32
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    Yes i did that, and the problems still exists.

  13. #33
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    Just for S**ts & Giggles i took the original tune and just bumped the operating temp RPMs up to 950, and wrote it to the ECU. She fired up, but was idling @ 16.5 AFR. That was intriguing.

    L67 block with stock internals, Rollmaster Double Roller Timing Chain, #136 comp cam springs intalled @ 1.43", Exhaust Valves - 1.57", Intake Valves - 1.84", PNP Cylinder Heads, 0.62" Thick 5 Layer Head Gasket, Custom Lenth Pushrods, Ls7 Roller Lifters, Stg 4 Turbo Cam 224/218 LSA 116* Overlap -11*, lucas 42.5lbs Injectors, Garrett T3/T4 Turbo, AutoLite Xp103 gapped @.030", Front & Rear Powerlog headers, Corsa 2.5" Cat Back Exhaust, Triple Edge Performance Transmission 3.29 gear ratio

  14. #34
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    After adding and subtracting anywhere from 0.50 - 0.01 g/s manually from the maf curve in open loop ( seeing my commanded afr changes while driving even though its set at 14,7 adders and the subtractors are zeroed ) ive got the afr close to 14.7 sometimes hitting 15s. but my knock still occurs on start up and during driving. even after removing 5 degrees from both hi and lo spark tables. its seems the closer to 14.7 afr i get, the more knock occurs. I just want to say Thanks for yalls " help " but this sight is only geared to the more popular gen engines and not much on tuning the 3800, its like using a pintos chelton to rebuild a lambo. Ive researched and researched, used the search tool in the sub forums and cant find what i need on here. And when you can ask questions all you get is some half answer on something, That ive already read, attempted, and didnt work for me ( Ive also seen this on alot of threads in all sub forums ). Seems this site is filled with preppy high school girls from malibu.

    L67 block with stock internals, Rollmaster Double Roller Timing Chain, #136 comp cam springs intalled @ 1.43", Exhaust Valves - 1.57", Intake Valves - 1.84", PNP Cylinder Heads, 0.62" Thick 5 Layer Head Gasket, Custom Lenth Pushrods, Ls7 Roller Lifters, Stg 4 Turbo Cam 224/218 LSA 116* Overlap -11*, lucas 42.5lbs Injectors, Garrett T3/T4 Turbo, AutoLite Xp103 gapped @.030", Front & Rear Powerlog headers, Corsa 2.5" Cat Back Exhaust, Triple Edge Performance Transmission 3.29 gear ratio