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Thread: First Tune by myself with new cam

  1. #1
    Tuner in Training
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    First Tune by myself with new cam

    I did a complete rebuild of my L94 New TSP 216 228 cam runs strong but a little rich any help would be great. This is my learning curve.
    I have attached my tune as of now and my last log file any suggestions would be very helpful.

    I have watched a lot of videos on how to adjust the tune but feel I want a experts opinion.




    Thanks in advance.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    JZNNJX (Psyko)

    2011 GMC Yukon Denali (4 Tons of Fun)
    L94, TSP Cam 216 / 228
    Fully Blueprinted
    Ported and Polished Heads By TSP
    Future upgrades 3200 Stall and Larger Cam
    Maybe adding a Turbo

  2. #2
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    Do you have a wideband o2 sensor?

    The logs are missing that and you aren't logging knock retard to see if that is pulling timing.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

  3. #3
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    No I have not upgraded the O2's yet next on my list to do. I do have a new issue after breaking the #1 rocker bolts and having head repaired. Installed new 10.8 Bolts all it working great now but now I'm getting a code for oil pressure out of range. I thought that the new GM Pump 10% higher oil pressure would bring the pressure up but when hot idles at 10 to 18 psi and cold idles at 50 lbs for about 5 minutes then drives down the road at a solid 20psi. I think this is way low of the built engine have about 500 miles on the new engine new everything, and I have been building engines for a long time over 40 years. so whatever reason the 6,2L LS engines have lower oil pressure than the 4.8, 5.3, and 6.0L LS engines. I am pulling the pan off this weekend to make sure the pickup is no broke or bad o-ring and wanted to put a higher pressure spring in it would feel better if it idled at 30 to 40 psi hot and between 40 and 60psi driving down the road, This is my first 6.2L engine rebuild maybe I'm missing something? Installed new cam bearings made sure they were indexed like to oem bearings and all mains and rods cam in between .0013 and .0015 clearance. Pull off the filter and checked for metal nothing to speak of but break in residue. Oil is clean put new filter on and will run it to 700 Miles or less dropping the pan and checking the oil pump and pickup. Any Ideas? Anyone? I did delete the DOD and tapped the oil towers and installed 3/8-16 setscrews locktighted only down 1/4 inch from top not blocking any oil gallies, That I know of when I got the truck the pressure what higher than I have now but was stil within specs. Replaced the oil sensor 3 times removing defective ones, Cracking and leaking oil. Now it does not leak but the sensor is sluggish to me rev the engine and it takes a few seconds for the the PSI to move up. Scratching my head on this I know the block has a lot of oil passages maybe I'm missing something. Talked to a few of my mechanic buddies they thing the pressure I'm getting it normal. I'm not sure..

    Thanks in advance to all for the advice.
    JZNNJX (Psyko)

    2011 GMC Yukon Denali (4 Tons of Fun)
    L94, TSP Cam 216 / 228
    Fully Blueprinted
    Ported and Polished Heads By TSP
    Future upgrades 3200 Stall and Larger Cam
    Maybe adding a Turbo

  4. #4
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    You can't upgrade the o2 sensors, they can only be narrowband sensors. The factory computer can only use those. A wideband sensor is something you'd be buying that comes with a gauge to view and then you'd wire it into the HP Tuners to log the data.

    AEM has a OBD2 wideband that makes it a breeze on anything GEN 4+ with canbus like this truck.


    Oil pressure on a stock engine is 40-50psi cold, 20-25psi hot and 35-40psi cruising. So seeing less than 20psi hot is a tad low. Even with all the deletes and plugging holes it's still likely to be around those stock numbers but maybe up 5-10psi overall.

    High volume pumps aren't really needed if you ask me, a stock volume pump is more than able to keep up.

    The factory oil pan also has a pressure relief valve for the AFM/DoD system, you can remove that and plug the hole. Some say that will give you a few extra psi of oil pressure.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

  5. #5
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    Never thought of the relief valve causing the pressure to drop maybe that is why oil pressure is higher in 5.3L trucks will plug that with pan off and check pump. I only went with the upgraded pump to get the pressure in the range you stated I would be great if that can be achieved.

    I hope I find an obvious problem it has oil pressure to keep lifter from clicking, old engine started doing that when it blew a lifter apart, as in busted the roller off the lifter and cracked the cam tunnel. So replaced the block with an under 10k 6.2L block from a Yukon 2012 I think and used all my old pan and covers minus the valley cover and the front cover. everything was deep cleaned even the relief valve but never thought it would have a lower pressure than the stock 5.3L engine. The OEM engine I had was gone threw by a dealer in Fla like 4 times to fix issues and found it had a broken upper ring land on number 4 piston. I replaced it in Fla and drove it home with out issues till lifter broke just after DOD delete. Words to think about. Thanks again.
    JZNNJX (Psyko)

    2011 GMC Yukon Denali (4 Tons of Fun)
    L94, TSP Cam 216 / 228
    Fully Blueprinted
    Ported and Polished Heads By TSP
    Future upgrades 3200 Stall and Larger Cam
    Maybe adding a Turbo

  6. #6
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    5.3/6.2's use a relief valve. Pressure in a stock 5.3 should be no different than oil pressure in a stock 6.2.

    I've yet to look at a 4.8 but I wouldn't doubt that they also ran that on the oil pan as well. Pretty much anything in a GEN 4 engine should have one.

    Earlier GEN 3 blocks like the LM7, LQ4, LQ9 etc etc do not run one and they generally have more oil pressure than a GEN 4 engine.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

  7. #7
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    Sorry for the diatribe, but I have to be missing something.

    Every LS based engine I have ever had the pan off had one, if they were made without a relief valve I have yet to see one.
    I got my pan off and all looked good I took the relief valve out and plugged the hole, with a pipe plug had to drill and tap it for a 3/8 pipe plug due to not being able to find a metric pipe plug. I also have a stock 4.8L spring, and it is way stiffer than my OEM 6.2L spring a little shorter but stiffer.
    Before I got the pan off I was driving about 80mph and it was running 20psi oil pressure about 3 lbs. higher than idle. Now this is at full operating temp. When cold it goes up to about 40psi down the road and idles at 25lbs.
    Cut open filter and checked oil and pan nothing in it to show a part has failed. Now because I am using my stock oil pan and relief valve, (Before now) I have a feeling that the relief valve is the issue, due to my old engine before Imploding, (Did the DOD Delete and a brand new LS7 Lifter exploded Blew Roller out and cracked the block in the Cam tunnel area.)
    The Truck ran the same oil pressure and was told by many sites and other mechanics this was the norm. This is my first 6.2L engine I have owned, this is why I am Concerned.
    From 2000 Forward, Every 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 I have ever owned no matter what the miles were from 30k to my last 6.0L (LQ4) had over 500K on never being cracked open as like heads oil pan no bearings. They all cold started at 60 - 80 Psi oil pressure and hot idled at 30 to 50 psi while driving down the road. My 6.2L I bought for a very cheap price in Tampa, from a guy that drove it from Texas Paid the dealer $6500 to fix a miss fire, (Dealer had the engine apart 2 times, and Per the Receipts the Owner gave me, bought it from him at the Dealer. They still never fixed the Broken #4 Piston) always had the same pressure as I do now. Is it probable that the Relief valve may be defective? Or do you think I may have gotten a defective Oil pump from GM?
    I would hate to just put the pan back on with the hole plugged and find out I have to pull it apart again to put the spring in or worse yet replace the oil pump. I hope you all see where I'm going with this. I am half temped to put the spring in also and pray that it idles around 30 to 40 psi and cruses at 40 to 60psi I would be very happy. What would be the down side to having higher oil pressure except washing out the bearings? If it was like 80psi going down the road all of the time yes that is bad.
    Looking for opinions, I'm getting very iterated.
    Never had a LS engine be such a pain in the butt. BTW I replaced the block not using the cracked cam tunnel block.
    Last edited by jznnjx; 1 Week Ago at 08:48 PM.
    JZNNJX (Psyko)

    2011 GMC Yukon Denali (4 Tons of Fun)
    L94, TSP Cam 216 / 228
    Fully Blueprinted
    Ported and Polished Heads By TSP
    Future upgrades 3200 Stall and Larger Cam
    Maybe adding a Turbo

  8. #8
    Tuner in Training WAcord's Avatar
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    I would try a manual gage to rule out a bad dash gage.

  9. #9
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    Well I had the pan and took the pump off found a cracked gear in the new pump, replaced the complete pump with a factory unit. Now when cold it shoots up to 50 to 60 psi but when full temp idles at 10 runs 20 psi running down the road.
    The gauge seems very lazy slow to move, hit the gas takes a second or two to move up.
    I’m going to hook up a manual gauge and see where it’s at. If it is the same on the manual I think the dumb bell may have come out, had this happen before on a 6.0L
    JZNNJX (Psyko)

    2011 GMC Yukon Denali (4 Tons of Fun)
    L94, TSP Cam 216 / 228
    Fully Blueprinted
    Ported and Polished Heads By TSP
    Future upgrades 3200 Stall and Larger Cam
    Maybe adding a Turbo