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Thread: Should I just start over?

  1. #1
    Potential Tuner
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    Should I just start over?

    Very new to tuning... Doing a ton of research so I can improve, using my truck as a test mule. From what I've read and watched, the tune that's currently on my truck is jacked. Like bad.

    So my question is this. Do you think it would be better to try and go through what i have and clean things up? Or find a stock tune in the repository and start from the beginning. I'm leaning towards starting over, just so I know exactly what has been changed vs overlooking something that i wasn't aware of. My lack of experience is holding me up though.

    Thoughts?

  2. #2
    Starting over can be a good strategy. I have discovered that making incremental changes and saving my file often using different file names gives me a get out of tune jail card - I can always revert to a known, at least running file. You gotta' be deliberate and methodical here. Make a small change, test. Make another small change and test again. Don't swing for the out of the park holy grail tune file all at once.

    Eat the tune elephant one bite at a time until you get more experience.

    Rick
    1970 Chevrolet El Camino LM7 5.3 liter mill and a 4L60E transmission.

  3. #3
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    That's the way I was planning on doing this. I think I've made up my mind and decided to start with a clean slate. Motor is not stock, but not boosted either. How much if a difference is that going to make during the process?

    .030 over, flat tops, 11.5:1 (ish), prc stage 2.5 heads, TSP 228R, etc

  4. #4
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    Some but not a ton.

    Your first needs would be to just setup the tune for difference in displacement and for parts used or not used. Like a 5.3 that is .030 is no longer a 5.3, it's larger. So cylinder volume must be updated. If you are using larger injectors, which I have to assume you might be because stock non flex fuel injectors are likely too small, that information needs to be changed. Raise the idle rpm to 800 while you work on it because 550-600 is too low.

    DTC's for parts used/not used need to be set correctly. If no cats, then COT needs to be disabled. Things like abuse mode and engine torque mngt settings should be raised/disabled.

    I would maybe add 5-10% to the base running airflow for starters. Then with your wideband o2 sensor see where you sit with fueling at idle and see what your fuel trims are like. That will give you a base on if you should add or remove fuel globally as a quick help to get it up and going. Past that will be working the MAF and VE tables to correct the airflow model for part throttle and idle first. Wide open throttle and timing changes should be done last.

    Most idle problems can be fixed way faster if fueling is correct. And if the spark correction tables aren't allowing it to swing timing all over the place.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5FDP View Post
    Some but not a ton.

    Your first needs would be to just setup the tune for difference in displacement and for parts used or not used. Like a 5.3 that is .030 is no longer a 5.3, it's larger. So cylinder volume must be updated. If you are using larger injectors, which I have to assume you might be because stock non flex fuel injectors are likely too small, that information needs to be changed. Raise the idle rpm to 800 while you work on it because 550-600 is too low.

    DTC's for parts used/not used need to be set correctly. If no cats, then COT needs to be disabled. Things like abuse mode and engine torque mngt settings should be raised/disabled.

    I would maybe add 5-10% to the base running airflow for starters. Then with your wideband o2 sensor see where you sit with fueling at idle and see what your fuel trims are like. That will give you a base on if you should add or remove fuel globally as a quick help to get it up and going. Past that will be working the MAF and VE tables to correct the airflow model for part throttle and idle first. Wide open throttle and timing changes should be done last.

    Most idle problems can be fixed way faster if fueling is correct. And if the spark correction tables aren't allowing it to swing timing all over the place.
    Good info to know. I'm sure I'll have to ask questions along the way, but I think this is going to be my best strategy. Do I have to use credits on a file from the repository when i go to write it?

  6. #6
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    I will be watching this thread as I am also new to tuning and being a sponge. Thanks for posting!
    Just getting started on tuning. Test mule is my 69 Camaro with a n/a dry sump TSP built 418. E38, wide band, PWM ZL1 fuel pump (58 psi), long tube headers, TSP stage 3 cam, PRC 260 heads, LS3 intake. T56 mag trans, 3.90 Tru-trac.