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Thread: 2.0TFSI Engine build + HPtuners?

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerJDubbs View Post
    this one should pack a little bit more of a punch if more boost is what you're after

    Attachment 98968
    Thanks again Tyler, I'll give it a go in an hour

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Botbasher View Post
    Tyler.... Is this the same awesome guy that was helping me muddle though my poorly thought out tuning choice?? The same one that talked me into buying HPTuner??? Well... I finally did it!!

    Alex... I am not jacking your thread... I have a question for you!

    I got the very same error about not being able to read the ECU. I know it is tuned (Stage 2) and likely locked, but I am now wondering after reading your post if it's more that my ECU isn't yet supported.

    How did you go about getting HPT to support your ECU? Mine is a 8K2907115AG (2011 CAEB 6MT)

    I'm going to start analyzing your logs and hpt files to start wrapping my head around the process. I've tuned many MegaSquirts, but this is a whole new beast for me. Tyler pointed me in the right direction, now it's all getting it to make sense!

    Thanks for any input and assistance!

    Ken

    P.S. if we can get the ECU to read, I have base Stage 1, 2, 3 and a K04 tune I can add to the pot! If not I'll sit down and manually transfer them over, but that may take a while!

    Cheers!
    Hi Ken, No worries. Just send an email to [email protected] include the tune file that is created when reading your vehicle and a VCMSuiteInfo file that you create while connected to your vehicle. I think they refer to the issue as "Definition Failed to load". But make sure to use the latest Beta version of VCM Editor when trying to read your vehicle if you didn't already try that.

    Nice, then I know who to ask when I'm going to test off my second injector row. The plan right now is to run them of a MicroSquirt (Just assuming it is similar to MegaSquirt).

    I am so far quite pleased with the HPtuners experience, especially since there are extremely helpful people here on the forum!

  3. #43
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    Hey Tyler....

    Guess I need to learn the lingo a bit better. Base and Stock are what I would consider the same... basically Stage 0.

    I do see the issues with trying to start from another's "base" files. I learn visually though and seeing changes and results it helps me make the connections!

    Thanks for the "stock" (see... I do learn!! ) AG file. That makes me feel a lot more comfortable. Both HPT and ELaw have mentioned that it might have been my connection to the mother-ship causing the issues, so I am hopeful I might not have to go so radical!

    Thanks again!

    Ken

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexOlen View Post
    The plan right now is to run them of a MicroSquirt (Just assuming it is similar to MegaSquirt).
    Alex,

    Yeah... Micro was just a trimmed down version. Fewer outputs and options (Spark...) but worked equally well. My brother used one on his motorcycle and we got it working great! I currently have one waiting for me to get back to my Lotus 7 build. I mated a VW 1.8 JH to a Toyota W56 with some Subi and Chevy running gear. All to be driven by a MS V3 with Wasted Spark and Boost control for a lil .60 trim T3/T4. I'll get back to it one day! 9 years on now!

    I hadn't thought about that type of use for it. I want to run Water/Meth injection on my car. I got the Snow Stage 3 controller, but a Micro would have done the very same thing at a fraction of the cost!

    Yes... I'm getting more comfortable by the day. Tyler was trying to lead me though my other tuning suite drama via FB and I finally gave up and bought HPT. I wish I had heard about it before, but what the hell... it's only $$... I'll make more eventually!

    Thanks for the info and guidance... anything I can do to return the favor... HMU!

    Cheers!

    Ken
    Last edited by Botbasher; 05-01-2020 at 11:20 AM.

  5. #45
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    Hi, Latest log file...

    I do see it's picking up desired load and for the smaller shorter pulls it is picking up boost as well. I am just driving it the wrong way? For the shorter pulls it looks like I am easing in to it a bit more and the the rail pressure is already there to pick up desired load and boost much more, or am I completely wrong here?
    Attached Files Attached Files

  6. #46
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    I'll trough out another question to all of you...
    Is there anyone running a PCV adapter plate for your catch can system? I'm currently running two oil catch cans, one on each crank case ventilation route. I did order an adapter plate to be able to run just one catch can and route it back to the compressor inlet, thus preventing boost leaks from the factory PCV valve. But after reading that a lot of people were having issues with them I haven't dared testing it.

  7. #47
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    Like this???

    20180601_195603.jpg

    It's an 034 PCV delete. The routing is out to the can and back.... which goes straight through to the turbo inlet. The intake manifold is capped.

    Even after my complete rebuild, I noticed that there was always oil in the inlet, so I did this and it totally stopped my oil ingestion.

    As a caution, I do empty it often dependent on the weather, but it is a frothy mix of oil and water. Very little oil though!

    I bought the plate from 034 but sourced the kit parts myself. If you have 2 cans already, you have all you need except the plate!

    Cheers!

    Ken
    Last edited by Botbasher; 05-01-2020 at 03:04 PM.

  8. #48
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    Here's the link directly to the adapter.

    It was a drop in using the supplied gasket and hasn't given me a moment of issue since I installed it.

    https://store.034motorsport.com/valv...provision.html

    Cheers!

    Ken

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Botbasher View Post
    Like this???

    20180601_195603.jpg

    It's an 034 PCV delete. The routing is out to the can and back.... which goes straight through to the turbo inlet. The intake manifold is capped.

    Even after my complete rebuild, I noticed that there was always oil in the inlet, so I did this and it totally stopped my oil ingestion.

    As a caution, I do empty it often dependent on the weather, but it is a frothy mix of oil and water. Very little oil though!

    I bought the plate from 034 but sourced the kit parts myself. If you have 2 cans already, you have all you need except the plate!

    Cheers!

    Ken
    Yes! Exactly like that. Ok, I read people were having issues with elevated crank case pressures and thereby high oil consumption and lots of smoke from those plates, but if you say it's working I will sure give it a try.
    I actually already have the plate, just haven't gotten around to install it yet.

    That Lotus 7 build of yours sounds cool!


  10. #50
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    You will see an increase in case pressures... most noticeably at idle where the normal and extreme negative pressure found at the oil cap are gone and it almost lifts it now... but not quite.

    I have a speculation that the internal wear of the motor plays a part in others issues with it. I started using mine when I rebuilt the motor, the rings had not quite seated, and found HUGE positive pressures in the case. I thought I did something wrong and I swapped it out for an OEM PCV. Eventually my brother talked me back into it and I found the positive I experienced before was no longer pushing, but merely dancing the cap. We thought about it and surmised that the unseated rings were allowing lots of blowby and causing the increase I saw. The reduction was after the rings had fully seated.

    I have noticed no major blowby (soot at the tail pipe) since going to the system. I was leaving spit marks all over the place before the rebuild, so I'm confident that it's working on my motor as intended. I have a dying turbo that is causing some minor oil consumption, but there is a K04 waiting to cure that too!

    If you have it and the cans already I would just try it. It's easy enough to swap back and forth.

    Any questions, let me know!

    Cheers!

    Ken

  11. #51
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    Post

    Yeah, the Lotus is a labor of love for sure!

    Completely scratch built... even down to the suspension I had to teach myself about!! Tech has evolved much since I started, so where I was going to have a converted ToughBook laptop with a touchscreen, I'll now have a Tablet for my dash. Even things like the gastank are hand made.

    The motor will be good for about 250HP without breathing hard and will have an all up weight of about 1200#. With your butt 5" above the ground (you can drag your fingertips on the ground while seated) and not much of a windscreen to stop the wind, it will surely be one unique car when completed. One day I'll get my butt in gear, but it won't be till after I finish this damn Audi!!!

    Here's a taste of my penchant for torture... it's progressed to flooring and some internal sheet metal since these pics, but that's about it!

    DSC_0133.JPG

    DSC_0131.JPG

    2013-06-23 19.22.36-5.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #52
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    I had a bunch of positive crankcase pressure after my rebuild too. Things are much better now that the rings have properly seated.

    I ended up using a single catch can and this adjustable PCV valve (http://mewagner.com/?p=444) to connect the outlet of the catch can to both the intake manifold and pre-turbo inlet. I also installed a vacuum regulator and air intake on the top of the head to allow for fresh air. One of the problems with all the aftermarket catch can setups that delete the intake manifold connection is that they prevent the crankcase from pulling fresh air to replace the blow-by. The stock setup actually pulls fresh air from the pre-turbo inlet into the crankcase when the intake manifold is pulling a vacuum.

    I also tried the 034 Africa plate, but ended up switching to the Spulen one (https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Spule...dapter-V2.html) because my catch can was sucking up clean oil during high-G corners.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Botbasher View Post
    You will see an increase in case pressures... most noticeably at idle where the normal and extreme negative pressure found at the oil cap are gone and it almost lifts it now... but not quite.

    I have a speculation that the internal wear of the motor plays a part in others issues with it. I started using mine when I rebuilt the motor, the rings had not quite seated, and found HUGE positive pressures in the case. I thought I did something wrong and I swapped it out for an OEM PCV. Eventually my brother talked me back into it and I found the positive I experienced before was no longer pushing, but merely dancing the cap. We thought about it and surmised that the unseated rings were allowing lots of blowby and causing the increase I saw. The reduction was after the rings had fully seated.

    I have noticed no major blowby (soot at the tail pipe) since going to the system. I was leaving spit marks all over the place before the rebuild, so I'm confident that it's working on my motor as intended. I have a dying turbo that is causing some minor oil consumption, but there is a K04 waiting to cure that too!

    If you have it and the cans already I would just try it. It's easy enough to swap back and forth.

    Any questions, let me know!

    Cheers!

    Ken
    Thanks for the more detailed explanation of what I might expect to see in terms of crank case pressure. I think I've been scared off by short forum post without any real reasoning behind why it doesn't work and not knowing exactly how their setup looks.
    Yeah I just need to get me some fittings and I should have everything to try it out. I ended up also ordering a new PCV kit since I needed the pipe going from the PCV to the pre-turbo inlet, so soon I should a known good PCV to switch back to if it doesn't work out for me. My current one is spitting some oil on top of the valve cover event though I can't hear any leaks. I'm assuming it might be leaking slightly under boost.



    Quote Originally Posted by mukhery View Post
    I had a bunch of positive crankcase pressure after my rebuild too. Things are much better now that the rings have properly seated.

    I ended up using a single catch can and this adjustable PCV valve (http://mewagner.com/?p=444) to connect the outlet of the catch can to both the intake manifold and pre-turbo inlet. I also installed a vacuum regulator and air intake on the top of the head to allow for fresh air. One of the problems with all the aftermarket catch can setups that delete the intake manifold connection is that they prevent the crankcase from pulling fresh air to replace the blow-by. The stock setup actually pulls fresh air from the pre-turbo inlet into the crankcase when the intake manifold is pulling a vacuum.

    I also tried the 034 Africa plate, but ended up switching to the Spulen one (https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Spule...dapter-V2.html) because my catch can was sucking up clean oil during high-G corners.
    Wow, sounds like a serious set-up you have got there. I like the thought of keeping the original functionality.
    Did you use the in-line adapter for the PCV valve or where did you mount it?
    And from where are you drawing fresh air and how are you entering it to the engine?

    Cheers!

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Botbasher View Post
    Yeah, the Lotus is a labor of love for sure!

    Completely scratch built... even down to the suspension I had to teach myself about!! Tech has evolved much since I started, so where I was going to have a converted ToughBook laptop with a touchscreen, I'll now have a Tablet for my dash. Even things like the gastank are hand made.

    The motor will be good for about 250HP without breathing hard and will have an all up weight of about 1200#. With your butt 5" above the ground (you can drag your fingertips on the ground while seated) and not much of a windscreen to stop the wind, it will surely be one unique car when completed. One day I'll get my butt in gear, but it won't be till after I finish this damn Audi!!!

    Here's a taste of my penchant for torture... it's progressed to flooring and some internal sheet metal since these pics, but that's about it!

    DSC_0133.JPG

    DSC_0131.JPG

    2013-06-23 19.22.36-5.jpg
    OK, I'm jealous!
    God, I need to start building a proper garage so I can do things like this!

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexOlen View Post
    OK, I'm jealous!
    God, I need to start building a proper garage so I can do things like this!
    I started this with a welder, an engine hoist and a chop saw.... not a whole lot else! I've gained tools over the years... shear/brake, pillar drill.... but you'd really be surprised what you can do with what you got!

    If you want to I wouldn't wait. Gets harder to make it happen as the years roll on!

    Get building!!!

    Cheers!

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by mukhery View Post
    I also tried the 034 Africa plate, but ended up switching to the Spulen one (https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Spule...dapter-V2.html) because my catch can was sucking up clean oil during high-G corners.
    Do you know why there was so much oil in the top of the motor? I have recently suspected that it gets stuck up there but can't prove it. I had the plug at the end of the cam (behind the HPFP) get pushed out one freezing morning. Took me a few days to figure out why it would intermittently smoke and just where it was coming from. Plug was completely gone... not just pushed out and I could not get a new one in the same way, so it's a mystery to me!! No idea how it happened, but I suspect that condensation froze and over pressured the head, exiting the path of least resistance... the cam plug.

    I ran almost a week that way. ... puffing smoke at various intervals and positions. It seemed that nose down was the worst offender (plug is at the rear so that makes no sense) with freeway being the least likely to smoke. I lost less than 1/2 a qt in all that.

    Stunning to think that our motors can run quite happily with a quarter sized hole in the head without much of an issue!

    Now in this context, it could have been the adapter or just my failure during the rebuild to install the plug.

    I have not had any issues with it since, so I chalk this one up to my failure and have moved on.
    Last edited by Botbasher; 05-06-2020 at 03:49 PM.

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexOlen View Post
    Did you use the in-line adapter for the PCV valve or where did you mount it?
    And from where are you drawing fresh air and how are you entering it to the engine?
    Stock setup
    Code:
                               <---> out to pre-turbo inlet (under boost), fresh air in to crankcase (under vacuum)
    Crankcase -> PCV plate ---|
                               ---> closed (under boost), out to intake manifold (under vacuum)
    My current setup
    Code:
                                            ---> one-way valve -> out to pre-turbo inlet (under boost)
    Crankcase -> PCV plate -> catch can --->
                                            ---> Wagner adjustable PCV valve -> out to intake manifold (under vacuum)
    
    Crankcase <- one-way valve/vacuum regulator <- filter <- fresh air (under vacuum)
    The Wagner PCV is also a one-way valve that will prevent boost from getting out of the intake manifold, although with this design, even if the one-way valve fails, boost pressure should just dump into the pre-turbo inlet as opposed to pressurizing the crankcase.

    The plastic tabs that hold the engine cover on are actually threaded and normally provide access to the head bolts. I just replaced one of the tabs with an adapter and connected the vacuum regulator and filter. I think the threading was M20x1.5, but I can double-check if you care.

    Quote Originally Posted by Botbasher View Post
    Do you know why there was so much oil in the top of the motor? I have recently suspected that it gets stuck up there but can't prove it. I had the plug at the end of the cam (behind the HPFP) get pushed out one freezing morning.
    Sounds like yours is longitudinal, but mine is transverse. My setup mainly seemed to suck oil on long sweeping corners. I thought oil was getting stuck up there too, but there seem to be plenty open and clear passages down to the block, so I'm not sure if that's what's happening. There is a decent amount of oil splashing around, so maybe it just builds up really fast with high rpm and the right g-forces. Btw, that little cap does have a part number. oemepc.com is a great site I've been using to find obscure part numbers for stuff like that.

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by mukhery View Post
    Stock setup
    Code:
                               <---> out to pre-turbo inlet (under boost), fresh air in to crankcase (under vacuum)
    Crankcase -> PCV plate ---|
                               ---> closed (under boost), out to intake manifold (under vacuum)
    My current setup
    Code:
                                            ---> one-way valve -> out to pre-turbo inlet (under boost)
    Crankcase -> PCV plate -> catch can --->
                                            ---> Wagner adjustable PCV valve -> out to intake manifold (under vacuum)
    
    Crankcase <- one-way valve/vacuum regulator <- filter <- fresh air (under vacuum)
    The Wagner PCV is also a one-way valve that will prevent boost from getting out of the intake manifold, although with this design, even if the one-way valve fails, boost pressure should just dump into the pre-turbo inlet as opposed to pressurizing the crankcase.

    The plastic tabs that hold the engine cover on are actually threaded and normally provide access to the head bolts. I just replaced one of the tabs with an adapter and connected the vacuum regulator and filter. I think the threading was M20x1.5, but I can double-check if you care.
    Ok, thanks. If the adapter plate and simplified catch can set-up will give me too much crank case pressure this sounds like the way to go.
    No, don't bother checking the thread. I'll have to see where it is suitable to have the fresh air inlet on my engine if I need it.
    You say "filter", but it have to be after the MAF right?

  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by mukhery View Post
    Sounds like yours is longitudinal, but mine is transverse.
    You guessed it... and I know it doesn't accelerate quite that fast yet!!!

    I could see it happening on a Transverse... we'd have issues on our old VW A1 cars. Make em corner, starve the oil pumps!

    Looks like I'm going to have to wait for winter to roll around again to see if rerouting the hoses cured the issue!

    Thanks for the info.. I might revamp the PCV wile she's down for the K04 Transplant!

    Cheers!!

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexOlen View Post
    You say "filter", but it have to be after the MAF right?
    Yeah, great point! My engine is actually MAFless from the factory, so I didn't have to worry about that.