Originally Posted by
TriPinTaZ
Actually I zero out any positive numbers in the multiplier table so that it doesn't add any timing. I also slightly adjust the negative multiplier depending on the setup. Since I always add timing when tuning a car, I set the car up so that it has a theoretical maximum before multipliers, including humidity. AT WOT during the most humid times, it might pull half a degree up top and zero in the peak torque area. Then when winter hits, it will pull anywhere from 1-1.5 degrees.
Example: LT4 in summer months regularly hits 26-27 degrees peak on E60+. But in the in the winter when its cold and the humidity drops, you will see 25-26 degrees peak on E60+. In FL and Texas it could be either one of these scenarios in "winter time" lol.
I usually pull the spikes out of the WOT area and maybe even the part throttle areas in the Humidity spark table. On some setups I just put 2 degrees in the whole table if I have a really different timing strategy. But in a nut shell, I tune the cars spark advance for maximum performance in humid air, and use the humidity spark to pull spark only, never add. The stock humidity spark table is pretty decent for stock heads/cam cars and I leave part throttle alone and make the WOT areas smooth. Some cars have random rows of 3 degrees at WOT. I lower those to match the cells next to them so I can have a stead amount of timing removed.