Knock retard on 110 octane at start up?

[jsllc]

You might try this.

[marksrig]

You might try this.

Thanks, I'll take a look and flash it in next dry day.
EDIT: well looks like you're on a different version, HPT won't let me open it.
I'm on 4.4.4
EDIT: You're running Beta, I didn't like the idea of trying to learn tuning while in Beta so I didn't convert. .I'll get it flashed.

thanks

[jsllc]

Current is 4.6 and not beta

[marksrig]

Current is 4.6 and not beta

Something is wrong then because it said 4.4.4 No Updates Available. I opened the file on my other computer that has beta on it. I?ll download direct from their website the latest when I get home. Thanks for the heads up

[jsllc]

That is a check for updates on 4.4 nothing else. 4.6 is current and can be downloaded. 4.7 is current beta.

[marksrig]

That is a check for updates on 4.4 nothing else. 4.6 is current and can be downloaded. 4.7 is current beta.

Updated suite to the latest and flashed it in. attached is the cold start and a normal temp around my area.
It did idle much better.

This is now using 92 octane E10. I originally put the 110 in to see if it helped the knock for that one test and have since ran it out. E10 is what usually goes in the car.

jsllc cold start.hpl

jsllc_ normal op temp.hpl

Thanks

[jsllc]

So your logging does not have enough info to really check the tune. The MAF and VVE are off. Here are some minor fixes. You really need to pull the belly pan and check. Something is hitting.

[marksrig]

I'll get it lifted and pull the belly pan.

[marksrig]

So your logging does not have enough info to really check the tune. The MAF and VVE are off. Here are some minor fixes. You really need to pull the belly pan and check. Something is hitting.

I'm lost here. I pulled the belly pan and inspected the headers, motor mounts, exhaust on back, clamps, o2 sensors, everywhere I could see. No unusual sounds heard. The only close spot is passenger header at frame is less than 1/8" so I started the car and got under it with the flashlight and a plastic strip. while idling I could easily pass that strip between the frame and header until it was hot enough under there I had to get out. Checked other clearances while I was there too for changes that might occur due to things warming up. I did find a slight oil weep coming from the front crank seal area so it was worth the work to inspect at least. Maybe I have a knock sensor going bad. They have never been removed as far as I know. The previous owner never mentioned ever having any work on them done so I'm assuming they are torqued to factory specs. The car was completely stock when I bought it. Valve train sounds quiet as far as I can tell as well.

Attached is the cold start from the FIX 2

jsllc fix 2 cold start kr.hpl

Thank you for all your help

[jsllc]

I assume you know how to load a set of PIDs. Load and log these PIDs. You will have to fix the WB and add your fuel pressure and requested fuel pressure back in.

[marksrig]

I got the PID's loaded. WOW! that's a lot of stuff! I'm going out to setup the WB and fuel stuff. Do you want a log from cold start on FIX-2?

[jsllc]

No just not hot. The thing you will want to watch is injector tip temp. When it is not 115-135 the data for set MAF and VVE is skewed.

How does it start and idle?

[marksrig]

No just not hot. The thing you will want to watch is injector tip temp. When it is not 115-135 the data for set MAF and VVE is skewed.

How does it start and idle?

Starts strong and idles great in fact. Nice chop most of the time. Some hot starts sound...hard to explain...sound lazy like there's no resistance in compression, but quickly starts.

Interesting inj tip temp hardly moves, see attached.
I know my MAF and VVE need redone. I'll work on those when the rain lets up.

Thanks

jsllc PID run for inj tip temp.hpl

[jsllc]

You can try this. Need a good long log. I am not sure about the MAF in this. It is mine. We have the same CAI size so it should be close, but who knows.

[marksrig]

So just from reading some of Greg Banish's posts. A MAF shouldn't need adjusting unless there was a change somewhere between the air filter and throttle body. So I have the Rotofab CAI with stock MAF sensor and stock throttle body, Is that what you have? Either way I'm going out to put in the car. The rain quit for now but streets are soaked. It wont be until tomorrow that I can get the log back to you. What's your thoughts on zeroing the burst knock multiplyers?
What about zeroing the inj tip temp? I reset the LTFT on this one since the MAF Hz changes fuel and it seems rich after reflash.

[jsllc]

Take a step back and think about what you said. Rotofab CAI is a change.

Mine is from Lingenfelter (build by RtoFab). The size of the tube the MAF is in is larger than stock. Ideally you should place a airflow straightener in the tube in front of the MAF

So your next questions is where I will p!ss so people off. Only those that have no idea what something is zero items out. I have, and do. I do not know the formulas for predictive airflow based on throttle change so they get zeroed when the TB size went from 87 to 108mm. Other than that no zeroing EVER!

Bust knock does exactly what it is supposed to do. Retard timing on rapid TQ changing TB blade movements. Why would you want to zero that out. It keeps you from having detonation in your engine. It is a GM calc'd value. Not really measured by knock sensors.

The idiot who posted the zero out injector tip temp table should be shot. All that does is create a LEAN after flash issue. Much worse than rich after flash. Just because someone posts something here does not mean you should try it. NEVER do anything that is not backed up by logic and data. Bad results will follow.

Be careful at first and make sure it does not go lean. Anything higher than .81 lambda @ WOT shut it down.

It is no longer lean at start, or idle. The knock is down during idle most of the MAF is sightly rich. VVE still needs fixing. AND no you do not have to fail the MAF to tune it. It is almost all done with math.

I am gone for a week after today so will not be responding. The tune I gave you should be right. Your CAI should make your MAF close to mine. You will have reversion and turbulence issues that are different than mine so i expect it will be a little off.

[marksrig]

Ok,
Sorry if I wasn't clear about the CAI. I meant that if yours and mine is the same, then all should be good and there wouldn't be a change because your air intake to Hz is calibrated...so mine should be too if we have the same parts.

So I just ran on the street FIX3 and the LTFT's are at -4.7 both sides and don't change. I'm having issues uploading the run. Maybe because its 8.5MB. I'll keep trying.

10-4 on the burst knock and inj tip temp offset, it was just questions for my learning knowledge.

So fix3 is still a dynamic tune up to 3800. should I fail that, reset trims and log a 100% MAF to see how it looks?

[jsllc]

LTFT are not the measure. It is the addition of LT and ST per bank that tell you where you are. I have had LT be +4 and the ST+LT be -1. Really, after I have the car right I turn off LTFT. They can screw with your WOT fueling.

Yes if it is all rich and no lean spots then run it with MAF priority. Contrary to what you read here there is no way to run without some VVE. A GM gen4 actually uses dynamic 100% of the time. No one on this forum including me knows how it is truly calculated. We guess. Only GM can tell us and they won't share LOL!!!!!

[marksrig]

I try for .75-.77 for my WOT runs. This last one for some reason was as low as .66

Have safe trip and thank you for all your input and help these past few days. It's much appreciated.

Mark

[jsllc]

.78 is safe. .81 is fine if you want to push it. .76 and below is too rich. If your car is right you can run all day long under any amount of stress @ .78 (11.5 on 14.7 regular gas) You should invest in a fuel sensor for alcohol content. Then the ECM will adjust timing based on fuel when tuned.