Originally Posted by
travislambert
I eventually dialed mine in to give the appearance of working after many hours and hundreds of dollars in dyno rentals. I had to bump up the requested pressure as you have done as well as play with the minimum tables. You have to be careful with the minimums though and only change numbers > the requested pressures but also leave the last column at max pressure alone. Otherwise your pump can get stuck at a high pressure when you go from high flow demand to a low fuel demand. (It happened to me while testing.) It's a delicate balance that will never be perfect, but you can get it close.
After getting everything dialed in, I took my car to the road course and discovered a huge design flaw with this kit. In my case, my car has a saddle tank (2017 Camaro ZL1). When you go around a right turn hard with less than a 1/2 tank of fuel, all of the fuel transfers to the left side of the tank... seriously, all of it (I logged the fuel level sensors in both sides of the tank). So if you take a hard right turn and then get on the throttle (with less than 1/2 tank of fuel), the car will run out of fuel and go lean because there is no fuel available to the aux pump where the tank is tapped. At this point, you're running on the in-tank pump which is also less efficient when fuel is only present in one side of the tank. The pump will struggle to keep up, pressure will drop, and once the fuel bucket on the in-tank pump is dry you'll run completely out of fuel... happened to me... over and over again until I figured out what was going on.
After discovering this, I couldn't rip this piece of junk off my car fast enough. If anyone is putting together a museum of poorly engineered aftermarket parts and would like to buy my kit for a 2016+ Camaro, I have one I'll sell really cheap. PM me.
Anyway, in my case, I installed a JMS voltage booster. At 17.5v, I have perfect fuel pressures again and all is well. Overall I'm happy with their kit, but it does triple the current draw on the battery while the car is not in use. The JMS unit alone uses about 20 mA constantly, which is waaay too much. If you don't use your car often, you'll need to keep a charger on the battery. I would wire up a simple relay, but GM expects power to be present to the FPCM all the time. If you kill the power to the booster, this also would kill the power to the FPCM which will trigger the MIL light. My plan is to rig up something to with heavy duty diodes to kill power to the JMS booster when not in use while keeping power to the FPCM at all times.
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