Etc/tps wires chewed up in sc pulleys now car is LEAN

[Kaleph]

So had a few zip ties break which let the etc/tps cables get pulled into my vortech pullies, so I cut each end off as the wires were stuck between two idlers and matched the wires up and soldered some new wire from the break to the plug which thankfully didn?t get eaten. So after fixing that I started the car up and ran the scanner which the car was sputtering pretty good but I attributed that to my emissions reduction mp10 to being off which hasn?t been an issue besides sounded meh at startup when it?s warm. Now my real problem is the stfts are right around 50% lean and I tried reloading the tune with write entire to no avail which had been working great (big shout out to wht5.0). Any of you pcm and inner workings gods have any theories as to what I?m facing here? In quite a bind!

Thanks in advance!

[Grim5.0]

double check the TB is working as it should. Few basic checks are key on, engine off slow pedal to 100%, make sure blade moves and then that log is showing the same and is consistent. from there voltage checks at the connector (not sure of the scanner will show these voltages, but may reduce your leg work) and if you really wanted to ensure the quality of the repair, voltage drop test with an appropriate load/current on each run one at a time. Im not a fan of solder repairs on a vehicle in general, a crimp with correct die/connector is far, far more reliable.

not sure how resilient the electronics will be in the TB but the circuit isolation on fords is awful from experience. what wires were cut/shorted together? all of them?

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[decipha]

you screwed up writing a tune due to a mechanical issue

common sense will tell you when you have a mechanical issue to fix it before making any tune adjustments and certainly before writing any tunes or a write entire. You have to get her back to how she was before fiddling. Now you have another variable thrown in the mix.

If the etc wiring caused a 50% fuel correction you have other issues. Go back to a known good point and fix the mechanical problems first. I would suspect the maf or a blown fuse etc...

[Kaleph]

Actually I hadn’t changed the tune it’s the same one that I was using before this happened. Which had no issues god I wish it was just that lol. Since I have a relocated iat sensor I may have pin pointed the issue I don’t think it sealed up when I rescrewed the sensor in and with the fan blowing right on it that may have been introducing a decent amount of unmetered air so I threw some thread sealant on it and am waiting for it to cure. Here’s to hoping!

[Kaleph]

Funny how this kinda stuff always happens when you get a bunch of new goodies �� had just got done installing roush side splitters gt500 rear valance and a lva front splitter. With koni yellows new brakes and new gt500 bump jouces arggh.

[Kaleph]

Did the key on engine off and it sounds like the blade is moving. I used high quality silver ball bearing solder and high temp heat shrink on all connections then used wire wrap with a layer of electrical tape wrap as well as they do stock. I was able to get rid of the vortech tps extension so I imagine that should keep the signal fairly clean. Will do some voltage tests to make sure the solder didn’t add too much resistance.

[Kaleph]

So tps fix worked and looks like I just fixed a boost leak when I put the charge pipes back together doing the front splitter. So nothing major thankfully and the throttle seems fine with my soldering job. Thanks for the input folks

[decipha]

assuming this leak was after the maf since it was at the throttle body and cuz if it was prior it would have had no affect. But if you fixed a boost leak it would also have been a vac leak which would cause the maf counts to now increase and cause it to be rich not lean.

[Kaleph]

The boost leak was before the maf and I had a vacuum leak where my water methanol nozzle is located in front of the throttle body the bung is one of the snow performance drill and thread fittings and it wasn’t sealing correctly so I redid the thread sealant and applied e6000 to both halves to give it extra sealing. So I think between the extra airflow and the vacuum leak it was going bonkers. So adjusted my maf table and she’s settled down in fact got a healthy performance increase which is no surprise with a boost leak :P.

Gonna keep eyes on her and see how things go so far hit 10 pounds of boost with no issue and the wastegate is opening and closing as it should same with the bov.