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Thread: Part Throttle Holding Gears Too Long

  1. #1
    Advanced Tuner 2therock's Avatar
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    Part Throttle Holding Gears Too Long

    Moderate or say city driving the gears hold too long before a shift. I suspect shift scheduling but would be guessing.

    Mods: 2013 Charger R/T 5.7 Edelbrock E-Force 2300TVS Dyno Tuned.
    Gears changed from 2.65 to 3.06.

    Thanks

    009_2013_charger_rt.hpt
    2013 Dodge Charger R/T Plus, Stock 5.7L, Edelbrock E-Force Stage 1, 3.25" Pulley, 450-HP 459-TQ.
    Corsa Sport CatBack, 3.06:1 Wavetrac, Dual Fans, 1-7/16 Radiator, Mopar Oil Cooler
    2005 Radix'd Silverado L33 5.3 ECSB Z71 @ 387-HP 395-TQ

  2. #2
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    Just need to change part throttle tables under shift schedule to command shift earlier at lower pedal positions. You can use calculator to calculate output shaft speeds if you have a certain RPM you want it to shift at but you could just go in and reduce the values where it holds gear longer than you like and not worry about the RPM also.

  3. #3
    Advanced Tuner coanan's Avatar
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    You tried this and it didn't work?

    Quote Originally Posted by 2therock View Post
    Since changing from 2.65 to 3.06 the gears hold longer than I would like in light to medium pedal city street cruising.
    Its definitely a different experience than with the 2.65 gears.
    The Gear Ratio Calibration successfully changed.

    How can I compensate?

    008.hpt
    Go into shift scheduling, put the part throttle winter upshift numbers in the normal and see what that does. I had to lower my numbers with the cam install, seemed to hold longer than before, maybe just me though.
    2018 Trackhawk PCM/TCM tune by Dusterhoff.
    Flex Fuel, MMX faux 95mm TB, GripTec 2.85, 10% ATI lower, FIC1200, ARH 1 7/8 w/cats, 180 T-stat

    13 Chrysler 300S, RAM BGE 412 stroker, cam motion 232/246 619/619 118 +4, ATI 18% OD pulley
    Whipple Gen5 3.0, 2.50 upper pulley, Smooth Boost controller, FIC 1200 inj. Nick W 108mm TB, FORE dual return fuel system, E85, FTI 2800 stall(SRT83380), SHR WAR Viking trans and valve body, Getrag 3.73, 1 7/8 kooks w/hi-flow cats, 3" Magnaflow Cat-back 943rwhp

  4. #4
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    You might be accelerating hard enough to get it into the more aggressive shift schedule a lot and need to back that one down or disable that too. Can't remember what they call it on the 5 speeds but you can change the threshold that enables it too

  5. #5
    Advanced Tuner 2therock's Avatar
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    Thanks,

    Winter tables do nothing on mine. I'm curious as to why Winter? Did yours only do it when cold?
    Mine does it when warmed up also.
    The other day I was just cruising normally from a light and 3rd held all the way to 3000 rpm. Other than overkill it attracts attention.
    I was like "please shift already car". I just had the throttle cracked a little.

    I'm not one to guess wildly on the numbers. I have no idea how much to change them. What do you think, start with 225 RPM just to see if a noticeable difference is felt?
    2013 Dodge Charger R/T Plus, Stock 5.7L, Edelbrock E-Force Stage 1, 3.25" Pulley, 450-HP 459-TQ.
    Corsa Sport CatBack, 3.06:1 Wavetrac, Dual Fans, 1-7/16 Radiator, Mopar Oil Cooler
    2005 Radix'd Silverado L33 5.3 ECSB Z71 @ 387-HP 395-TQ

  6. #6
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    My car is doing the same. If I accelerate at 40% throttle, I have to lift to 22% for it to shift.

  7. #7
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    Can you log shift ID to find out what shift schedule table it's accessing when it does it?

    If you can figure out the table you need to adjust, you can just drive it in autostick shifting it the way you want it to shift while logging OSS and gear and then go in and enter the data from your log.

    Seems someone else had this same issue.
    If in doubt, multiply everything by 1.1.

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    Is this an NAG1 trans?

  9. #9
    Advanced Tuner coanan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2therock View Post
    Thanks,

    Winter tables do nothing on mine. I'm curious as to why Winter? Did yours only do it when cold?
    Mine does it when warmed up also.
    The other day I was just cruising normally from a light and 3rd held all the way to 3000 rpm. Other than overkill it attracts attention.
    I was like "please shift already car". I just had the throttle cracked a little.

    I'm not one to guess wildly on the numbers. I have no idea how much to change them. What do you think, start with 225 RPM just to see if a noticeable difference is felt?
    I've been fooling with mine to tame normal driving, and leave the high RPM shift to sport mode. I had to reduce numbers further in 3rd, 4th, and 5th columns. Trial and error because I really don't know what the hell I'm doing, can't read a log for shit. Had it shifting up too soon, went back in and raised numbers some. Right now I'm trying to get down shift normal, seems I'm pushing the throttle too far and them bang, she down shift two gears from 5th to 3rd. Seems odd, raising numbers in down shift with less pedal movement. Just takes soo long to right trans, GM is almost instant to write.
    2018 Trackhawk PCM/TCM tune by Dusterhoff.
    Flex Fuel, MMX faux 95mm TB, GripTec 2.85, 10% ATI lower, FIC1200, ARH 1 7/8 w/cats, 180 T-stat

    13 Chrysler 300S, RAM BGE 412 stroker, cam motion 232/246 619/619 118 +4, ATI 18% OD pulley
    Whipple Gen5 3.0, 2.50 upper pulley, Smooth Boost controller, FIC 1200 inj. Nick W 108mm TB, FORE dual return fuel system, E85, FTI 2800 stall(SRT83380), SHR WAR Viking trans and valve body, Getrag 3.73, 1 7/8 kooks w/hi-flow cats, 3" Magnaflow Cat-back 943rwhp

  10. #10
    Advanced Tuner 2therock's Avatar
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    Funny this thread should wake again because I was not solved until Sunday this weekend kind of by accident?

    Other than some gears holding too long, I had a very light throttle movement tip-in issue. Say moving slowly away from a stop sign she would stutter sometimes. Very annoying.
    So speaking with another the tuner about it (not mentioning the gears holding too long) he reworked some things and the tip-in is corrected and the trans in general is behaving better through out including the gears shifting just right. He also made the throttle more responsive.
    The funny thing is I ran compares and he changed the scheduling back to stock.

    He wasn't just addressing the tip-in, he went through making other calibrations based upon his experience.
    He made me two files, one with TM reduction calibrations and one without.

    Attached is the file I'm running with TM.

    2013_charger_eforce_dyno_tuned_trans_with_torque management.hpt
    2013 Dodge Charger R/T Plus, Stock 5.7L, Edelbrock E-Force Stage 1, 3.25" Pulley, 450-HP 459-TQ.
    Corsa Sport CatBack, 3.06:1 Wavetrac, Dual Fans, 1-7/16 Radiator, Mopar Oil Cooler
    2005 Radix'd Silverado L33 5.3 ECSB Z71 @ 387-HP 395-TQ

  11. #11
    Advanced Tuner coanan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2therock View Post
    Funny this thread should wake again because I was not solved until Sunday this weekend kind of by accident?

    Other than some gears holding too long, I had a very light throttle movement tip-in issue. Say moving slowly away from a stop sign she would stutter sometimes. Very annoying.
    So speaking with another the tuner about it (not mentioning the gears holding too long) he reworked some things and the tip-in is corrected and the trans in general is behaving better through out including the gears shifting just right. He also made the throttle more responsive.
    The funny thing is I ran compares and he changed the scheduling back to stock.

    He wasn't just addressing the tip-in, he went through making other calibrations based upon his experience.
    He made me two files, one with TM reduction calibrations and one without.

    Attached is the file I'm running with TM.

    2013_charger_eforce_dyno_tuned_trans_with_torque management.hpt
    Thanks. Pays to have a good tuner around, better than flying blind. I'm too cheap? But coming around fast to get a tuner to do mine. My experiment failed on raising down shift numbers too high.
    2018 Trackhawk PCM/TCM tune by Dusterhoff.
    Flex Fuel, MMX faux 95mm TB, GripTec 2.85, 10% ATI lower, FIC1200, ARH 1 7/8 w/cats, 180 T-stat

    13 Chrysler 300S, RAM BGE 412 stroker, cam motion 232/246 619/619 118 +4, ATI 18% OD pulley
    Whipple Gen5 3.0, 2.50 upper pulley, Smooth Boost controller, FIC 1200 inj. Nick W 108mm TB, FORE dual return fuel system, E85, FTI 2800 stall(SRT83380), SHR WAR Viking trans and valve body, Getrag 3.73, 1 7/8 kooks w/hi-flow cats, 3" Magnaflow Cat-back 943rwhp

  12. #12
    Advanced Tuner 2therock's Avatar
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    Just a follow up, after driving it more I'm confirmed all is corrected.

    Also I am noticing more of a contrast between normal and Sport mode. Like I mentioned he put the scheduling back to stock.
    Today after some trips I decided to re-visit Sport mode as it was not much of a difference after the blower install and dyno tune.
    Now there is no doubt or difficulty knowing when I'm in Sport mode. The gears are holding longer and she will not go into 5th as early as normal mode.

    So I dunno,,,, maybe you can see some things in my tune via TCM & Throttle compares that will help?

    I have no complaints how normal mode runs and love the new found option. I have no complaints about my Tuner, they all are like artists and have their own ways.
    My 2nd opinion tuner sees no issues with the rest of the tune.
    2013 Dodge Charger R/T Plus, Stock 5.7L, Edelbrock E-Force Stage 1, 3.25" Pulley, 450-HP 459-TQ.
    Corsa Sport CatBack, 3.06:1 Wavetrac, Dual Fans, 1-7/16 Radiator, Mopar Oil Cooler
    2005 Radix'd Silverado L33 5.3 ECSB Z71 @ 387-HP 395-TQ