P0016 and P0507 - Reluctor wheel, timing chain or (hopefully) something easier

[NXTLEVL]

Some background on the car. LSX454, twin turbo and M6. ECM from a 2010 Camaro SS (E38 I believe)

I took the car out for some spirited driving last weekend and experienced a major misfire in the upper RPM range, around 5,000RPM+. This was the first time that has ever happened so I went a few more rounds and it continued to do it. this was the first time out since I'd done the Lingenfelter 2-step (2002-SR), CTAP and STOV-004 boxes. None of them were active at the time but I wanted to mention it since it obviously touched a bunch of wires and I can't help but think hat may have caused this. For the STOV-004 box I added a wire to pin 57 of the C1 ECM connector to grab the VSS signal needed to make it function and turned it on via HP Tuners by changing the speed output type to VehSerial in the speedometer tab.

I scanned and got a P0016 and a P0507. I have to assume they?re related but if that doesn?t makes sense let me know. Anyway, my research indicated the P0016 is related the crankshaft and camshaft not seeing the same thing in relation to position or timing. This would explain the high rpm breakup but I?m trying to determine what my next steps should be. Other than the high rpm breakup and the 2,000rpm idle the drive-ability isn't all that bad. Seems a little down on power but starts perfectly and can be driven around town. Here?s what I?ve done so far:

1. Replaced both the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Camshaft position Sensor
2. Check all wiring: No breaks and I have continuity between the sensor and the ECM
3. Reflashed the ECU with the last known good tune that didn't include the VSS output change (Although I left pin/wire in place)
4. Looked for vacuum leaks in case the P0507 isn't related (none found so far)


Questions about diagnosis/fix:

How do I determine if I actually have a physical problem like a rotated reluctor wheel or perhaps the timing chain jumped a tooth. If so, how do I figure out which one it is? What else could throw this code?

[NXTLEVL]

Please help. I don't want to have to tear into the engine if it's something I did to the electronics.

Thanks.

[NXTLEVL]

Here are the latest tune and log. The tune ran fine last year before the work I mentioned above and I'm not sure how useful the log will be as I really don't know what channels are useful in an investigation like this.

[NXTLEVL]

bump

[blindsquirrel]

So then remove or temporarily disable the newly-added electronics.

There really isn't any diagnostics for the P0016, other than 'verify sensor & wiring, if nothing found remove front cover.'

[NXTLEVL]

So then remove or temporarily disable the newly-added electronics.

There really isn't any diagnostics for the P0016, other than 'verify sensor & wiring, if nothing found remove front cover.'

I hear you and that's probably what I really need to do but I find it incredibly curious that I added a bunch of electronics and now it jumped timing or spun the reluctor wheel. It's only got 5k on the motor and it ran perfectly before my changes. I don't want to ruin the perfectly sealed, 0 oil leak work I did before if there's any chance I'm missing something external. Say the timing gears/chain check out. Is there a way to verify reluctor positioning based on timing marks? A certain tooth in the crank sensor opening when at TDC or something like that?

[blindsquirrel]

Revert the changes you've made one at a time since last known good. At that point if it still has a problem I would probably put a 'scope on the CMP before considering pulling the front cover.

[NXTLEVL]

Revert the changes you've made one at a time since last known good. At that point if it still has a problem I would probably put a 'scope on the CMP before considering pulling the front cover.

The scope option was one I considered but I don't have one and everything I read said you really need a "known good" wave form to really get anything out of it. I'm not sure I fully understand that. Isn't the point to look at the Crank sensor and Cam sensor together on two different channels and see how far off from one another they are? I took it to the Chevy dealer after they said they could scope it but they must have chicken'd out when it got there because they then said they couldn't do anything and didn't charge me anything. I'm willing to get a scope and test my hand at it but I don't want tot waste money if it's going to be nearly impossible for me to tell anything from it.

[Aeddin]

Camshaft Dowel broke?

[NXTLEVL]

We'll know soon enough what it isn't.... Timing cover coming off tomorrow. I really hope it's something simple.

[NXTLEVL]

Got the timing cover off and as expected the marks line up perfectly. Next to test the reluctor wheel. Everything I've read says when #1 is at TDC (timing marks aligned) I should see reluctor wheel tooth #14 dead center in the crank position center hole. A guy who seems very knowledgeable (Panter_EFI) says it should be the 13th tooth but everyone else who has actually done the test on an engine they own say it's the 14th tooth. On a 58X wheel (60 missing 2) one tooth would mean 6* so not enough to throw the code if my research is correct but nonetheless I'm going with 14th tooth unless otherwise directed. I'll post later tonight hopefully. In the meantime, once I get it back together, assuming the wheel is good, how do I check timing? The high idle feels like a timing issue which must be in he tune at this point...

[NXTLEVL]

So it's officially the worst case scenario. The tooth that was in the center of the crank position sensor hole when the engine was a TDC on #1 was 19 teeth from the "no tooth" gap on the reluctor wheel. As I stated above everyone says it's supposed to by 14 teeth away... Unless anyone has any last minute knowledge to impart I guess she's done for the year. It's going to take me quite a bit of time to get it out and to a machine shop....