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Thread: 13 Chrysler 300C 6.4 Swap Issues.

  1. #21
    Tuner in Training
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homer View Post
    How is that, the P/N for the PCM I show is for a 5.7 or 6.4 so how can it be different?
    Yeah, I don't know. All I know is that he talked to Dave at Modern Muscle, took his 5.7 PCM up there and they re-flashed it and the car responded perfectly. Not a single code and he has about 3,000 miles on it since.

  2. #22
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    Across year and model yes there probably will be a difference the PCM part numbers are different.

    2012 Challenger (no distinction between 5.7 or 6.4) connector C1 - just noticed this is for 3.6 not 5.7/6.4 which for some reason is not listed
    http://connectors.dcctools.com/details.htm?id=78052

    2012 Challenger (no distinction between 5.7 or 6.4) connector C2 - just noticed this is for 3.6 not 5.7/6.4 which for some reason is not listed
    http://connectors.dcctools.com/details.htm?id=78053

    2013 300 (no distinction between 5.7 or 6.4) connector C1
    http://connectors.dcctools.com/details.htm?id=113577

    2013 300 (no distinction between 5.7 or 6.4) connector C2
    http://connectors.dcctools.com/details.htm?id=113361

    Looks like the chilton site will need to be used to find pinouts. The mopar site does not show anything but a challenger 3.6.
    https://mcdowellpubliclibrary.org/chilton-auto-repair/
    Last edited by Homer; 07-29-2020 at 10:06 AM.

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Homer View Post
    I am curious if the SRV will work if you are using the 5.7 PCM? I have seen lots of guys swap the 6.4 intake on the 5.7 but they use the MSD switch. Always curious to see if you enable it on the PCM and wire it to the PCM if it works?
    I won't be running a 6.4 intake.... I'm using a ported 6.1 as I'm building a boosted application and feel (no proof) the 6.1 intake is better suited for boost then the plastic 5.7/6.1 units.

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Hippo View Post
    12 and older hemis use a different thickness crank trigger than 13 and newer. This is an older 6.4. I checked all of my grounds. I even swapped back to the 5.7 harness and the issues persisted.
    quick question..... Do you really think reluctor wheel thickness makes a major difference? At the end of the day a 12 6.4 still has a 58:1 wheel which sends the same signal as the 13+ 5.7/6.4's with the thicker signal. I in no way am trying to cause issues just trying to get solid information as I may have to pull the 13 reluctor wheel out of my 5.7 and put it in my forged 6.4 if this really is an issue. Either way I'm good just want to know for sure while the motors are out of the car.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by DakBuilder View Post
    quick question..... Do you really think reluctor wheel thickness makes a major difference? At the end of the day a 12 6.4 still has a 58:1 wheel which sends the same signal as the 13+ 5.7/6.4's with the thicker signal. I in no way am trying to cause issues just trying to get solid information as I may have to pull the 13 reluctor wheel out of my 5.7 and put it in my forged 6.4 if this really is an issue. Either way I'm good just want to know for sure while the motors are out of the car.
    I had a 2012 Challenger that had a 2015 engine in it and I had to do this exact same thing. I lapsed on what year the crank trigger design was changed so that's why I made this mistake. If you need further proof however I will have the car running again by next Tuesday and I will update this thread. I already have the crankshaft removed I am just waiting on the new reluctor wheel to show up.

  6. #26
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    I thought it was the tooth radius that changed the gap between the teeth and not the wheel thickness?

    https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...l=1#post620404

  7. #27
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    I believe the trick is to fit the crank sensor that matches the PCM year variants and it will work with either tone wheel. So if using a 13 engine in a 12 car with a 12 PCM then fit the 12 crank sensor. Hope this makes sense

  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by L4staero View Post
    I believe the trick is to fit the crank sensor that matches the PCM year variants and it will work with either tone wheel. So if using a 13 engine in a 12 car with a 12 PCM then fit the 12 crank sensor. Hope this makes sense
    This makes perfect sense, and thus saved me a lot of unnecessary work I was planning on doing. Over on the CT threads I have a very in depth 6.4 twin turbo build going, which is why I'm here trying to gather some of the delta information for boost tuning.