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Thread: LSA breaking up under boost

  1. #21
    Oh yeah, it spikes to 80 for a split second. I'm still pretty rich from the safety margin I threw in the tune after getting the car back together, so after I get it where I'm happy I can probably make this current pump setup last until I finally do cam/heads or start the lsx build.

    I'll attach the log so you can look it over if you want. I could still be missing something.
    '12 ZL1 - RPM 5", TSP 2" headers, Speed Engineering 3" header back, Dayco 8.66 lower/LPE 2.38 upper, ID1050x's with DSX aux kit and E, NGK TR8's, Taylor wires, 160* tstat, NW 102, self ported snout/blower, Stock unopened long block

  2. #22
    It's the last pull in this log. 1st one was an on ramp, 2nd was a waste because it just blew the tires off, and the 3rd was on my favorite uphill spot that gives me nice long consistent pulls. You can see where it spike to 80 when calling for 60, so I need to adjust when the high flow comes in, or just make it 70 all the time. I figure that might help with the over correction as well. It also seems like it can't add duty cycle fast enough to actually ramp up the pressure as needed, and by the time it gets to 100% it's just too late to recover.

    Also, unrelated, after I flash it runs 15-20% rich until I actually drive a few miles, then it goes to normal. I can let it idle for an hour but it just won't run normal and let me log properly for calibrations until I actually put a few miles on it. Is this normal?
    Attached Files Attached Files
    '12 ZL1 - RPM 5", TSP 2" headers, Speed Engineering 3" header back, Dayco 8.66 lower/LPE 2.38 upper, ID1050x's with DSX aux kit and E, NGK TR8's, Taylor wires, 160* tstat, NW 102, self ported snout/blower, Stock unopened long block

  3. #23
    Advanced Tuner PGA2B's Avatar
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    Rich after flash. There is a ton of posts about it.

    https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...4dUDCAw&uact=5
    Last edited by PGA2B; 08-02-2020 at 01:15 AM.
    2013 OBM A6 CTS-V Coupe
    Mods: Headers back Billy Boat Exhaust, GripTec 2.65, 8.6 PowerBond Lower, LSX Innovations Solid Isolator, ID850's, NGK TR7IX's, Accel 9070CK Wires, Spectre CAI, SRI Ported Throttle Body, SRI Catch Can, NGK AFRM, 160* T-Stat, 0fx2gv Brick, Hard Line Delete W/3/4" Lines, FB 101 FMIC, Pierberg CWA50, Stoptech Drilled/Slotted Rotors, EBC Redstuff, Cut Stock Springs, Flat Bottom Steering Wheel
    2006 Black Raven STS-V (Traded In)
    Fully Modded: 459RWHP@5888rpm/451lbft@4696rpm

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by PGA2B View Post
    Rich after flash. There is a ton of posts about it.

    https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...4dUDCAw&uact=5
    Wow I never gave it enough thought to google it lol Thanks
    '12 ZL1 - RPM 5", TSP 2" headers, Speed Engineering 3" header back, Dayco 8.66 lower/LPE 2.38 upper, ID1050x's with DSX aux kit and E, NGK TR8's, Taylor wires, 160* tstat, NW 102, self ported snout/blower, Stock unopened long block

  5. #25
    Advanced Tuner PGA2B's Avatar
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    Under Fuel>General>Offset>Injector Offset vs Injector Temp [EMC] 12303

    In one of the posts it talks about tuning that table instead of just zeroing out the entire table.
    2013 OBM A6 CTS-V Coupe
    Mods: Headers back Billy Boat Exhaust, GripTec 2.65, 8.6 PowerBond Lower, LSX Innovations Solid Isolator, ID850's, NGK TR7IX's, Accel 9070CK Wires, Spectre CAI, SRI Ported Throttle Body, SRI Catch Can, NGK AFRM, 160* T-Stat, 0fx2gv Brick, Hard Line Delete W/3/4" Lines, FB 101 FMIC, Pierberg CWA50, Stoptech Drilled/Slotted Rotors, EBC Redstuff, Cut Stock Springs, Flat Bottom Steering Wheel
    2006 Black Raven STS-V (Traded In)
    Fully Modded: 459RWHP@5888rpm/451lbft@4696rpm

  6. #26
    Yeah I did a bunch more research on it today. Then found a post from Jannetty (spelling?) saying if the injectors are over 850cc to just leave them zero'd. Which kind of makes sense to me, since a lot of people were saying to take out 50% to start if your injectors are 50% larger. So what if your injectors are 100% larger? lol
    '12 ZL1 - RPM 5", TSP 2" headers, Speed Engineering 3" header back, Dayco 8.66 lower/LPE 2.38 upper, ID1050x's with DSX aux kit and E, NGK TR8's, Taylor wires, 160* tstat, NW 102, self ported snout/blower, Stock unopened long block

  7. #27
    Advanced Tuner jsllc's Avatar
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    If they say to leave them zeroed then they are people you should not listen too.

    Wrong!
    2012 ZL1 - Maggie Heartbeat, Port & Polish Heads, Custom Cam, Custom rotating assembly, steel sleeved LS9, No NOS and No water meth. 16psi
    810rwhp and 820rwtq 91 Octane 6400 rpm
    948rwhp and 951rwtq 105 Octane 6400 rpm
    999rwhp and 997rwtq on 60% Ethanol 6400 rpm

  8. #28
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    JSLLC is absolutely correct. zeroing the table will just make you lean after reflash. The info is out there and it will take a little bit to get it dialed in but once its done, things settle very quickly after a reflash.

  9. #29
    Yeah I ended up pulling 80% across the map, which got it to comfortable 2-3% rich. I still have to drive it for 20 minutes to get Tip temp settled, and I'll never make a tune adjustment until then, so it works for now. If this was a dedicated track car getting flashed after every pass or so, I'd spend more time on it. Even then I'm not sure I'd be comfortable trusting it since the tip temp is a made up number and fluctuates as much as it does lol I see anywhere from 125 to 141 cruising with a steady ambient of 100 and IAT of 110 lol

    EDIT: I've also noticed it's steadier with straight gas. With higher E% it starts to jump around randomly. Not sure if that's just a thing it does, or if there's something wrong, but it's one more reason not to trust it.
    '12 ZL1 - RPM 5", TSP 2" headers, Speed Engineering 3" header back, Dayco 8.66 lower/LPE 2.38 upper, ID1050x's with DSX aux kit and E, NGK TR8's, Taylor wires, 160* tstat, NW 102, self ported snout/blower, Stock unopened long block