2016 L83/6L80 Swap into 1954 F100, No fuel/ no injectors, 70PSI into fuel rail.

[Nick89]

Customer brought 1954 F100 in for me to run all the wiring for. Customer had the wiring harness done by some guy in Texas who goes by JDKustomz.

The guy who cleaned up the harness cut out all the wiring for the Fuel pressure control module.

My tuner is having a problem getting the engine to run at all.

Can these engines run with no FPCM at all?

2016 ECM, Ive heard these cant be tuned for shit and need to be flashed to 2015?

Has an AEM 380LPH pump, to an Aeromotive A1000 FPR.
Im getting 70 PSI at the Regulator into the rail.

The engine will run if you spray starting fluid into the intake.

Main questions are:
Can it run with no FPCM connected at all?
Which year OS should it be flashed too?

[grandam75]

I am running 2016 os in a swap with no related issues, now even with a turbo. But this is with the FPCM.
Do you get any fault codes?

[Nick89]

Yes was getting fault codes. Cant remember specifically, but my Tuner said no Low fuel pressure detected was one.

[Jon S.]

Yes was getting fault codes. Cant remember specifically, but my Tuner said no Low fuel pressure detected was one.

I realize that you are trying to help find a solution - but posts like these are next to useless.

Your "tuner" should be the one posting questions - not you. Your "tuner" should also post the most current ECM tune in use, and all DTCs being set.

The devil is in the details when it comes to Gen 5 conversions.

You do not need a FPCM - Gen 5 engines will run fine with a static fuel pressure set anywhere between 58 PSI and 75 PSI - but the ECM tune needs to be properly configured for this type of fuel system.

The OEM setup uses 2 fuel pressure sensors. One sensor is in the fuel delivery line - and the output from this sensor is used by the FPCM. The other sensor is in the fuel rail, and the output from this sensor is required by the ECM.

Your comment that "the engine will run if you spray starting fluid into the intake" means that you are not getting any fuel delivery from the fuel injectors.

Does the ECM control the fuel pump, and does the fuel pump cycle at key on ?

Has VATS been properly disabled ?

Has the main 12 volt power supply to the standalone wiring harness been connected directly to the battery ? Gen 5 conversions are extremely voltage sensitive.

And the list goes on and on ...

[Nick89]

Thanks for the reply Jon

Ignition controls fuel pump at the moment, Fuel pump is on when ignition is on.

I know my tuner knows to delete vats, as he has done 100s of GEN 4 tunes. But this is his 9th Gen 5 Tune. I know these ECUS have Vats 1 and Vats 2 that need to be disabled.

12 volt supply has been connected to the harness.

I also remember there was no high fuel pressure detected from what my tuner told me.

Your reply has actually helped a ton, I now know that the high pressure fuel sensor is not tied to the FPCM.

[Jon S.]

.. Ignition controls fuel pump at the moment, Fuel pump is on when ignition is on ...

I never recommend this type of fuel pump control. The ECM should control the fuel pump.

I have seen older Gen 3 conversions, where the fuel pump ran constantly (like yours does), where the owner had the key on with the engine not running (listening to the radio or something), and one of the fuel injectors had time to leak a lot of fuel into a cylinder - when the owner cranked the motor it threw a rod out of the block - as the piston hydrauliced in the cylinder.

... 12 volt supply has been connected to the harness. ...

My apologies - I was a bit vague on this point.

Just connecting to a 12 volt source somewhere in the 1954 F100, may in itself cause issues. I have diagnosed more than a few conversions, where the installer simply connected the standalone wiring harness to a convenient 12 volt power source.

Measuring the actual voltage on some of these circuits, can often reveal issues. I have seen these range from 7 volts to 12 volts - during the same key cycle - sometimes the voltage will "jump around" on a circuit in an older vehicle - you need to check it multiple times, over several key cycles.

I recommend starting with a "clean" 12 volt source - directly from the battery - to the standalone wiring harness. Also, if the standalone wiring harness features a "key on" wire - that receives voltage from a key on circuit - this circuit also needs to be a constant 12 volts. Depending on the vehicle age, and circuit type, some vehicle circuits were designed to drop the voltage during cranking (etc.).

[Nick89]

The Ignition controlling the Fuel pump is only temporary, I have isolated Connector E92 X1 with the blue face pin 32 (grey wire) to control the fuel pump relay.


None of the original F100 wiring is in the truck, I have ran all new everything. The power to the ECU is Direct from the battery. And I do have the same voltage at the ECU as I have at the battery.

I need to have the tuner come back out and try again with the new information I have now.

[Jon S.]

... I have isolated Connector E92 X1 with the blue face pin 32 (grey wire) to control the fuel pump relay ...

E92 J1 (Blue) pin 32 (often a White wire with a Grey stripe) is for A/C Compressor Clutch control - this won't function in a standalone conversion.

E92 J1 (Blue) pin 44 (often a Grey wire) was the data signal from the ECM to the FPCM - with ECM reprogramming, this wire can be used to provide a 12 volt output, to operate a fuel pump relay in a standalone conversion.

[Nick89]

E92 J1 (Blue) pin 32 (often a White wire with a Grey stripe) is for A/C Compressor Clutch control - this won't function in a standalone conversion.

E92 J1 (Blue) pin 44 (often a Grey wire) was the data signal from the ECM to the FPCM - with ECM reprogramming, this wire can be used to provide a 12 volt output, to operate a fuel pump relay in a standalone conversion.

Thanks for this information. Good information is hard to find. I read that information from a post on LS1Tech.

[Jon S.]

You are very welcome.

On a DIY project like this, spending a couple of dollars for accurate OEM schematics and pinouts, is money well spent. ACDelco or Alldata are two reputable sources.

[Nick89]

Just an Update.

Found out why this engine wouldn't run.

There are two 16 or 20 pin connectors at the back bottom of the intake manifold, and they can be connected into each other. This was the cause of the all the problems.

I found it once I started using my volt/ohm tester to check continuity between injectors and the ECU connectors. I had no continuity between anything, coil packs, injectors, it was all open and had no connection to the ECU.
I started tracing all the wires and that when I noticed the connectors, the colors of the wires were not the same from one to the other on the connectors. Swapped them and it fixed all issues.

[yrkz06]

Glad you got it figured out, and thanks for posting back here to potentially help someone else